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| 87 Chevy Sprint Turbo; what a blast | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 31 2011, 09:22 PM (20,435 Views) | |
| Jittney | Jan 25 2012, 08:16 AM Post #91 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Thanks t3ragtop. Rock auto had 'one remaining' ignition coil specified for turbo model only. Nevertheless, I'll check resistance on it when it arrives. I am curious about this little black box on the ignition coil bracket . It has 2 wires. One goes down below and has a spade connector to something. ![]() |
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| Jittney | Jan 26 2012, 11:11 PM Post #92 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Parts from rockauto came today ![]() Immediately opened the box and checked the resistance 1.7 Ohms ![]() called rock auto and talked to Daniel.He listened to my plight and doublechecked their info...should be right part. But, resistance was not in specs. He's going to ask the warehouse to send me another...after making sure it's in turbo specs (1.0 - 1.3) He said there was another one with specs of 0.8 - 1.5 I explained that 1.5 was too high. Meanwhile, I had the go-ahead to try the one they sent me. No luck....and no surprise...not even one spark from the coil Still getting the code 41...which is for the ignitor coil. However, there were a few forum questions to clear up. 1. Check the yellow 20 amp fuse. It's good...even replaced it....still no start. 2. Check the resistance on the ignitor with knock control. 115.4 k Ohms. It was checked with negative probe on battery negative terminal and positive probe on the disconnected connector. 3. Check the pickup coil for loose wires....none found. ![]() 4. When the center triangular spinner (green arrow) spins past the pink arrow... one can hear a hiss and click....so, things are happening there. 5. The fuel pump....one can hear it hum when turning the key to on....before trying to start it. All systems seem to be go, except the ignitor coil is not producing a spark. Cranks nicely....just doesn't start. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 26 2012, 11:34 PM Post #93 |
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No more out of range of resistance than that is on the new coil, it could be your multimeter or not quite a good connection. Now if the resistance specs showed quite a bit of differance I would say you have a defective part or wrong part. Because of the nature of measuring resistance, very minor differances usually does not matter. Look for major differances (several ohms) or OL readings, then you can suspect a defective part. I would check the resistance of the pickup coil at this point. |
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| Jittney | Jan 26 2012, 11:46 PM Post #94 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Don't know how I could get a better reading than with a electrician's Fluke direct to brand new terminals. If the specs say no higher than 1.32 when there's knock control, and I'm at 1.7, then I follow the FSM. I don't know how to resolve this any faster than following the diagnostics step by step. I'll be happy to check the pickup coil. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 26 2012, 11:48 PM Post #95 |
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Follow the wires out of the distributor that come from the pickup coil and somewhere not far should be a plug to disconnect it. Check your resistance to it across those terminals. Looking for 900-1100 ohms When testing ohms, just the amount of pressure you are pressing down with the multimeter leads can change your meter display readings. Very sensitive. |
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| Jittney | Jan 27 2012, 12:13 AM Post #96 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Tomorrow. I'm tired and hungry and it's subzero out there. I have been out in the cold several times today, and I know when it's time to stop. Edited by Jittney, Jan 27 2012, 12:14 AM.
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| Wolf | Jan 27 2012, 01:14 AM Post #97 |
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Doesn't seem like it would cause a no spark situation, but my 87 turbo has a centrifugal advance mechanism deeper inside the distributor. The posts where the springs attach are pathetically thin and brittle. When I got my turbo, one was snapped off and some internal mechanical damage had occurred. I was able to drill and tap a hole in the spinner plate and used a bolt+loctite to fabricate a new post. You might want to check the centrifugal spinner assembly and clean/lube it if your distributor has one - since they're hard to find replacements for. If you need me to check any values/voltages etc on my turbo for for comparison purposes, I'd be happy to. |
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| Woodie | Jan 27 2012, 07:36 AM Post #98 |
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I don't think the actual resistance reading matters one bit. It's going to be shorted - 0Ω, open - ∞Ω, or it's going to work. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 27 2012, 08:04 AM Post #99 |
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What you just gave is a resistance reading that would show with a multimeter. If a value calls for 1-2 ohms of resistance and your reading shows 15 ohms, its pretty safe to say there is a problem. Now when you start breaking it down further like say the reading is 2.8 ohms and it called for 2 max, that is very little differance and with a handheld multimeter may not be very accurate. Measuring of ohms is of importance when dealing with electrical devices but like I said above you want to look for suffient differances in values before you condemn a part. You can imagine resistance in this circumstance. Someone comes in with a car and his complaint is one of his headlights is bright and the other is not as bright but glows a dim orange. Now both headlights are working, its just they are not working as designed to work. There is a resistance problem to the dim lamp. The total amount of electricty is not making it to the bulb (whether ground or positive). And again, its like a nozzle on a water hose. You crank down on the nozzle and only so much water comes out but nevertheless it comes out. You open it up and the resistance is less and more water flow you have. An electrical componet may not function or function as it should if not within a close proximity of its designed resistance specifications. Look at this guys posting, http://geometroforum.com/topic/4667060/1/#new |
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| Jittney | Jan 27 2012, 09:44 PM Post #100 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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I contacted rockauto again today. They said the coil I had was out of spec....and they did not have another one to send. They did have a more expensive model, but did not have testing available in the warehouse to test it before sending it up. They are refunding the price of the coil and some of the shipping. Meanwhile I contacted t3ragtop and he's sending up an original used coil. I printed off a hardcopy of the 1987 turbo supplement for convenience. Weather will hit 25 below at my house tonight....so I plan to stay inside and study the FSM. |
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| iBLKBRY | Jan 28 2012, 03:07 AM Post #101 |
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I think you just mentioned the overall problem... 25 below.
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| Wolf | Jan 28 2012, 03:15 AM Post #102 |
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The coil on my Turbo measured 1.9 ohms (@ ~40F degrees) and it runs fine (has for years). I know resistance changes with the conductor's temperature, not sure if that could be a factor. By the way, the little black box is the the radio noise suppressor. It runs from coil+ to ground but it shouldn't effect spark. Suzuki part# 33551-60a10 and was used on several other suzukis from that era. Edited by Wolf, Jan 28 2012, 04:07 AM.
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| iBLKBRY | Jan 28 2012, 03:19 AM Post #103 |
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This is a good clue. Are you loosing voltage to the coil during starter crank? Possible ignition switch malfunction? |
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| iBLKBRY | Jan 28 2012, 03:23 AM Post #104 |
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I concur. Have you accomplished this? |
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| iBLKBRY | Jan 28 2012, 03:28 AM Post #105 |
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Looks like you may have been down the correct road here. There are several contacts on the switch that may be opening when you switch from start to ignition. Verify continuity through the switch at the coil when you turn the switch from ignition to start. DISCONNECT the battery when you do this so that you do not have to crank the engine. Miami vacation plans when your done! |
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called rock auto and talked to Daniel.




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7:22 PM Jul 10