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| HO2 Sensor | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 3 2011, 06:28 PM (1,563 Views) | |
| Geo's Apprentice | Sep 3 2011, 06:28 PM Post #1 |
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GeoThud
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I've had this car for a month. The check engine light has been on all that time. Auto Zone checked it and it gave a PO134 code for heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1. The car starts easy and runs fine. It gets 55mpg. That's almost all highway miles at 55 mph and at elevations of 6500 to 8000 feet. It has no symptoms other than the check engine light. I hate to fix what ain't broke, so is it really necessary to R&R the sensor?? Might changing it create another problem?? Thanks for your thoughts, advice and this forum, Tom
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| iamgeo | Sep 3 2011, 06:50 PM Post #2 |
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Big League
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I assume they cleared the code. Has the C.E.L. come back on? |
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| Geo's Apprentice | Sep 3 2011, 07:03 PM Post #3 |
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GeoThud
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The check engine light is still on. I don't know if he cleared the codes or not. He appeared to this casual observer, to know what he was doing, but who knows? Tom |
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| allmountain40 | Sep 3 2011, 07:08 PM Post #4 |
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You are correct in assuming that the oxygen sensor code could be a symptom, not the problem. That said, there is only one way to find out. Also as far as is it necessary, there is something out of whack in your engine management system. If you are averaging 55mpg now, think of what mileage you COULD get with a fully functional engine management system.
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| Norby | Sep 3 2011, 07:22 PM Post #5 |
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Keep an eye on your mileage for every tankful. As long as it's great/good, don't mess with it. Unless it's going to fail you for an inspection. In that case, you can get a Denso 2344209 for $29.50 plus shipping on Amazon.com. |
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| Geo's Apprentice | Sep 3 2011, 10:20 PM Post #6 |
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GeoThud
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We don't have emission testing here. I think I'll buy one and keep it on hand for when I run out of things to do---maybe in a few years! Thanks for your thoughts, Tom |
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| Shinrin | Sep 3 2011, 11:42 PM Post #7 |
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All it is to change it out is turning it with a wrench, unplugging the wire, and putting the new one back in. If I'm not missing something, it's a 2 minute job unless it's frozen up and can't be turned. |
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| Woodie | Sep 4 2011, 04:33 AM Post #8 |
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That code is for a sluggish sensor, and without good, quick feedback the PCM can't control the air/fuel mix properly. You might be wasting gas, you might be poisoning your catalytic converter. I've heard of people cleaning them with a torch to get rid of this code. I'd just replace it, start oiling it now, so the penetrating oil can work its way in there. |
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| Geo's Apprentice | Sep 4 2011, 08:27 AM Post #9 |
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GeoThud
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So far, I've changed oil to synthetic, oil filter, thermostat, tranny oil to Synchromesh, PCV valve, air filter and right side driveaxle. To do: sensor(ordered), cooling system flush, radiator, water pump, hoses and belts and timing belt. Beats heck out of TV. Thanks for help, Tom All of the above is completed. Thank you for the forum; ya'll are too kind! Tom
Edited by Geo's Apprentice, Sep 19 2011, 10:29 PM.
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| t3ragtop | Sep 4 2011, 08:56 AM Post #10 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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winner, winner, chicken dinner! you know he's got that right.
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| Bad Bent | Sep 4 2011, 09:15 PM Post #11 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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BTW, my car has started and run fine for a long time and I get 56 mpg. BUT the CEL would come on if it idled for more than 2-3 minutes. or if I coasted (engine on or off) for a mile or held a steady speed for more than 3-4 miles. an occasional 5oz of Seafoam in the tank would help. I attributed it to the street/race cam but it was in fact the O2 sensor. I replaced it today and the idle smoothed out. It was $17 for the one-wire Bosch sensor. A Denso sensor would take almost a week and cost 2x as much so I took a chance. Anti-seize worked great and it was easy to remove. Turns out it was broken.
Edited by Bad Bent, Sep 4 2011, 09:57 PM.
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| Geo's Apprentice | Sep 4 2011, 10:42 PM Post #12 |
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GeoThud
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Thanks, Bad Bent. I ordered the Denso suggested by Norby. I'll put it in as soon as it gets here. Parts are piling up around here; I'll be busy for a while. Thanks all, Tom |
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| Geo's Apprentice | Sep 10 2011, 10:37 PM Post #13 |
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GeoThud
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Installed new sensor without problems. CEL is out. Doesn't seem to run any different but, I feel better. Thanks for the advice and how-to's, Tom |
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| Bad Bent | Sep 11 2011, 12:57 AM Post #14 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Peace of mind. You might want to get a OBDII code reader if you plan to keep the car. If not throw it in the sale and up the price $50. It is not magic. The parts guy is not a magician. It is simply plugging the unit in under the dash, turn on the ignition but do NOT start the car and press the start button. When it is ready flip through the codes, write them down and then erase them. They are on eBay for $30-$35 and more or less if you want to bid on one. Click for eBay search I have one of the orange ones. There are better of course. Here is what I use for explaining OBD codes: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ |
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| Geo's Apprentice | Sep 11 2011, 11:18 PM Post #15 |
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GeoThud
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I did get a code reader from Carquest for $70. I wanted it now! I got it because instructions were to erase the code after repairs and before starting engine. It is magic ---it worked. CEL did not go away until after I started the engine. It went out then and has stayed out. With all y'all's help I keep on apprenticing! Thanks, Tom |
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