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| Cold start issues | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 8 2011, 03:06 PM (824 Views) | |
| brandan787 | Sep 8 2011, 03:06 PM Post #1 |
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i just replaced my 2000 2 door b13 1.3 engine with one that had 65,000 miles on it, same year i believe maybe a 2001 but its out of a 4 door. I used the original ECU from my original engine. It runs like S**t when cold, but once its warm it runs amazing. what could be wrong? loose connector? i still have the other engine is i need to switch stuff out. i have the ECU from the new engine, should i use that? is it any different than the 2000 2 door? |
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| Woodie | Sep 9 2011, 06:06 AM Post #2 |
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My guess would be Intake Air Temperature sensor or Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. The PCM thinks the engine is hot, so it doesn't run well until it actually is hot. All the relative sensors are mounted on the intake manifold (or throttle body, or air intake tubing) the generally accepted way to swap engines is to leave the intake manifold in the car and just change the long block. Okay, just looked in the parts book, and what I just said about the intake doesn't apply to a G13BB. Looks as if there is only one Coolant Temperature Sensor and it's mounted on the thermostat housing. Does your gauge work correctly? All 2001 cars were California Emissions, so maybe it is the PCM, still seems to me that using all the sensors from the original engine should cover you. Have you checked the compression of the new engine? Maybe it's just weak, or the rings are sticky when cold. |
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| brandan787 | Sep 9 2011, 09:58 AM Post #3 |
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coolant sensor works fine. so change out the throttle body? why would compression be an issue at 65,000 miles? engine did sit for a year on the east coast with no oil, cause of sticky rings possibly? |
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| brandan787 | Sep 9 2011, 12:51 PM Post #4 |
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so i pulled the engine harness to go over wires and i found 4 wire spliced together with an uninsulated wire. i cut that random wire and it started way better. why would some one be splicing the harness wires to each other? |
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| idmetro | Sep 9 2011, 03:11 PM Post #5 |
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Was this a splice that looked like a previous owner had hacked it or a factory splice? People tap into all sorts of things in an attempt to power whatever aftermarket goodie they couldn't live without (often with not so good results). |
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| brandan787 | Sep 9 2011, 04:59 PM Post #6 |
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not even close to factory, it was hack. it was just the wire hopping around from wire to wire that had no rubber or plastic color shielding. duck taped the splices in. they wrapped it all up with some sticky electrical tape. It was on the main engine harness about 6 inches from the ECU. its stilling at work right now, i will know later if cutting out the splice worked or not |
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| Bad Bent | Sep 10 2011, 02:26 PM Post #7 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Off hand did you remove the oil pan? The Crank position sensor will not work properly with the recommended cork gasket so RTV is used. My idle issue was a bad O2 sensor. Rough idle, took a mile to warm up, occasional CEL when idling a long time. It looked OK but was broken. Here is a test for them: http://geometroforum.com/topic/4050888/1/?x=40 post #19. Might be worth looking into. |
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| brandan787 | Sep 11 2011, 08:12 AM Post #8 |
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i didnt remove anything. just dropped the engine in the car. no CEL. it ran fine when i cut the wires that jumps a bunch of harness wires together but i was not able to cut them completely off cus i was in some parking lot at my brothers work, car ran fine after i did that but i think the wires may be touching again. |
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