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| 92 Metro starts but smokes like an addict | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 18 2011, 11:52 PM (615 Views) | |
| justthatgood | Sep 18 2011, 11:52 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Okay here is the deal. The metro Ive been trying to get to run for the past month plus has thrown me a curve ball. I dont know if it would be something wrong or something I did. Lately I been under stress, and when the electric company decided to yank my power that put me over the edge (right now Im posting this from my wife's smartphone) Any ways I took the distributor off and adjusted the gap in the module in the. Now the car starts a bit but sounds like a freight train. Not only that but the thing is so hot afterwards its scary. Plus all the smoke is rough coming from the back. That has to be more then being out of time. Is it possible to put a distribs rotor shaft in the wrong way? How about the piece in the distrib? Could that setting have throw it off. Is it just acting up because its been unplugged for so long? Really need two cars so my wife can work, and I would be able to before another utility gets yanked. Thank you! |
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| Bad Bent | Sep 19 2011, 12:21 AM Post #2 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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What kind of manual are you using to repair this car? What have you done to it? How many miles on the engine and has it been rebuilt or what? What were the original symptoms that caused you to get into the distributor? There is a module that says don not move in the distributor. Did you remove the plug wires? The firing order 1-3-2 and here is a picture: Firing Order Picture Did you leave an electrical connection or vacuum hose un-connected? Is there something rubbing in the dist and what exactly getting hot? Sorry about the electric. Edit: I deleted the double topic. Edited by Bad Bent, Sep 19 2011, 12:23 AM.
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| justthatgood | Sep 19 2011, 04:03 PM Post #3 |
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New Member
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Well Bad Bent, I'm working between a Chiltons and a Haynes manual. I've also gotten a little bit of help from some of the various manuals on the internet and this website. I also had an associate at O'Reillys Auto Parts (one of the many auto parts stores I go to) asked me what part I needed and I told him. He couldn't find the exact part, but then he asked me if I had any codes. He looked through on of the books of codes and it came up with an ignition componet. After searching his database he found the link and picture of the module in the distributor and said you will have to replace the WHOLE distributor. That is what has brought me to the distributor. Since my very first post On August 30th, I've cleaned down all my grounds like idmetro told me to, and basically everything I said in my first post. About 250,000+ on the engine, no rebuild. It was actually running okay until one Saturday (which I mentioned in my eariler posts) that it would fail to start. Before it just wouldn't start. Then it came to the point where that car would not just start, but would stall out in the middle of intesections. There are no shorts (I even took the headlights off and checked around the front bumper.) I have so much around there cleaned. The Code 42 kept popping up. Then my car wouldn't start at all. All it would do is crank and kill the battery.. That's when I pondered changing the distributor. Then the other day I went for broke and thought, hmm, why don't I loosen the module in the distributor and put it closer to the rotor shaft. I did see is said something like don't remove. Well it started, but I think I put the think distrib in wrong. At least it's starting. Maybee I need to change the distributor right? |
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| Bad Bent | Sep 19 2011, 10:20 PM Post #4 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Thanks for the recap. Look at page 2-6 of the Chilton to see the offset pawl on the end of the distributor. Fairly hard to get it in wrong. Which is why I asked if the plug wires were in the correct order. 250K on the engine and have you done a compression test? Code 42, then click on: Test CKP and or CMP sensor and test your CaM shaft Position sensor. You could post a wanted and see if anyone has a distributor for your '96 that they would sell. If I had an engine stall then I would quickly pull the plugs to see if they were wet or dry. Wet; flooding, not firing. Dry; firing and maybe no fuel. Starting with pedal floored, then flooding and I'd look at the injector/pressure regulator. And with that many miles, compression. Air, fuel, spark, compression. But 245,000 and still running should give all of us hope.
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