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95 g10 rebuild
Topic Started: Sep 23 2011, 04:09 PM (6,744 Views)
jeremy_nash


My introduction post of sorts.

So I bought a 95 metro, 3/5. Motor in it has bad compression on a cylinder(motor from junkyard), it also comes with two other motors. one that was used in it previously, and another from a junkyard. I tore down the motor that was originally in it, and found a burnt valve, and a perfect bottom end. I figured I could pull an exhaust valve from the other head, lap it in and be in good shape. I have a few pics of the head and block of this donor motor.

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Edited by jeremy_nash, Sep 23 2011, 05:50 PM.
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Memphis metro


Good deal. Welcome to the forum.
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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Wow. That had to of hurt when the valve broke. I wonder what caused that type of failure. Too much rpm's or no oil?
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

This is second valve drop I've seen on a Geo in the past week. The other person had ebay brand exhaust valves (thinking they were ITM). Any idea what brand these were?
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allmountain40
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Ouch! Yeah, never saw this in a metro untill the last week, now twice. Wonder if they have something in common?
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Welcome to your new forum, jeremy_nash! :coffee

Smashing introduction :thumb .

In fact what happened to the #1 spark plug? :-/
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Woodie
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Welcome, nasty looking donor you've got there.

It's usually not a good idea to just lap the valves and put it back together. If going to the trouble to take it apart, you should put in three new exhaust valves and new rings on the pistons.


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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

:+1 and welcome to the forum :)
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jeremy_nash


Well Woodie, that's really good info, I was gonna lap them, then fill combustion chamber with fluid to see if it holds. Well it didn't quite go that way, it is VERY evident the head had been gone through in the past, probably more than once, as there are major grooves all around the 2 good exhaust valves.
Gonna check price difference between standard valves and stainless, as I plan on saving gas for a very long time.
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jeremy_nash


So got the stainless valves ordered from parts dinosaur. I'm planning on gasket matching the intake and exhaust. Any tips I should be aware of or things I should know going into this phase of the project?
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

These are the usual rebuild links if you haven't already read them...

98 Metro Rebuild
Engine Rebuild Top and Bottom
Detailed 1.0 Head Rebuild Guide
Bottom End Rebuild Guide
Rebuilding Hydraulic Lifters
Engine Torque Specs
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jeremy_nash


yep I've been through them, thanks though :thumb

I've already fully disassembled and cleaned the lifters, summit racing says my valve lapping handle will be here tomorrow, so hope to get some more work accomplished then. Will post some pics if I can stay clean enough.

what color should I paint the motor? I'm thinking duplicolor gloss black http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Engine-Enamel-with-Ceramic&153;,-Gloss-Black,-12-oz--Aerosol-Duplicolor_7140541-P_N3268_T%7CGRP2050_____
or semi gloss black http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Engine-Enamel-with-Ceramic&153;,-Ford-Semi-Gloss-Black,-12-oz--Aerosol-Duplicolor_7140681-P_N3268_T%7CGRP2050_____

everybody knows black is faster!
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

I'd go with something that will show an oil leak easily that way it can be tracked down right when it starts, but that's just me...
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jeremy_nash


I took the head and manifolds with me to work today. After my shift, I got down with my die grinder. 1 1/2 hrs later, I had gasket matched the intake and exhaust manifold to the head, and sanded the casting ridges down smooth. Once home, I hooked it up with some blue painters tape and semi gloss black engine paint. Planning on taping up the block later, and getting it painted too. Tomorrow planning on welding the drain fitting onto the oil pan, in preperation for the future. :rocker
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jeremy_nash


Also took some pics of the car this motor is going into. So here they are.

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