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Story line included thanks for reading; Excessive fuel
Topic Started: Oct 19 2011, 09:11 AM (1,989 Views)
flea
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I need a bit of guidance. I always brag about my Flea (98 Metro LSI 3/5) to everyone so a good friend of mine was checking ebay and came across a 95 Geo 3/5 down in Ky. The guy was an art teacher that wanted to sell it, saying that the engine had the head done and he rebuilt the lower end (he put in chrome rings), the body was rust-free except for some surface rust around the fuel door. All of that for 2k. He stopped by with a trailer to haul it back. I told him what to look for on the body and hoped for the best. ^o)
A week later he dropped it off at my house to check it over because it had failed e-check. He met me when I got home and I looked at the paper; I couldn't believe it. The nox was double what it should be. So I checked the tailpipe....or where the tailpipe should be. Instead i was greeted by a melted bumper cover and a soot-soaked underside; no muffler either. :hmm
I, then popped the hood to find no timing belt cover, broken and twisted wires, mismatched plug wires, bolts missing and the others loose on the intake, as well as the IAT sensor unplugged. :(
First, I checked the plugs...completely black and covered with gas. Ran a Comp check: only 130 across the board. The head had been reworked...I could see the heat tab on it. I had to reset the timing belt (a tooth off) PCV was so plugged it was pushing oil out of the front crank seal (replaced now).
Installed the 2 bolts that were missing from the intake manifold and checked for vaccuum leaks-none detected. Decarboned the throttle body, put new plugs, wires, Bosch cap and rotor in. Replaced the IAT that was unhooked, the coolant sensor that was broken and the for it connector that was twisted in half, checked the coolant hoses by the throttle body (they get hot), cleaned the ground wires where they attach on the intake....but I still have the problem of too much fuel soaking the plugs. :banghead

I'm running out of options. Do you think a single-wire O2 sensor could cause this??? I have yet to trace out the fuel return line for kinks. I have replaced the MAP as well. I see a nice spray pattern from the injector (no drips). Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
Flea

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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Wow! :O Sounds like the train wreck, that I avoided, a couple weeks ago. :coffee

I guess a build is in the eye of the beholder. :die

Compression is low but still should run. :hmm Not sure about the O2 sensor, but maybe verify that the TSP hasn't been fracked with too. :gamerz Sounds like there's a good chance that it has. :banghead
Edited by snowfish, Oct 19 2011, 10:49 AM.
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flea
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I was afraid you would mention the TPS. It looks like it hasn't been messed with but.....I was reading over ALL of the TPS info but which is the correct way to set it?

Oh yeah...I was so busy repairing all of the obvious problems that I forgot to check if the check engine light was on...I know I didn't see it while the engine was running. And, as I left for work at 6:45 this morning I noticed that the bulb is either burned out or he had removed it. So I'll be taking the cluster out as well.


Thanks


Flea

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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

flea
Oct 19 2011, 12:28 PM
TPS info but which is the correct way to set it?
Right or wrong, I use my DVOM & feeler gauge. :thumb
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

:+1

In this bad of shape I'd check the coolant quality and if the hoses on the TB are getting hot.

I believe my '96 has 4 wire O2 sensors, two for heating. So that may be a problem. Sorry. :shake
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

flea, I would definitely check that return line when you get a chance. Fuel pressure check wouldn't hurt either. But it sounds like you'll have more than your hands full just getting the thing straighted out. Fix the gremlins you can see first, then go after the ones you can't see. :evillol

:popcorn
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Woodie
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You sure that failure was for NOx? Low compression and running rich should cause high Unburned Hydrocarbons, not NOx.

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flea
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Well I had to pull the cluster to replace the burned out bulbs and now I have a wonderful selection of lights lit up. I have the rear window defogger lit, the shift indicator flickering, no battery light now and the check engine light is flashing codes 23 and 32. 23 is the IAT circuit (it was unhooked) but it is bad and 32 is the pressure sensor circiut.

I checked for blockage on the return line and it is clear. I didn't see a fuel pressure regulator. Is it in the fuel tank?

Any you were right; it does have a 4-wire O2 sensor.

I have my old headlight switch/Wiper switch from when I changed mine over to delay wipers to install and repair the headlights so I don't have a large green cable running from the fues panel to the lights.

Thanks for the info so far. I'm getting closer


Flea
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

Sounds like you still have some electrical gremlins to kill. :D
The fuel pressure regulator is the small square with the small circle on it in front of the fuel injector on the throttle body. Sorry no pic, but its about 1 inch square. Check fuel pressure first with an inline gauge before you pull it apart. IIRC the diaphragm is a bit pricey. ^o)
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Christmas
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The fuel line to be checked is the larger one up front correct? The smaller is the return? What should the pressure be at?
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

Testing Fuel Pressure :thumb
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Christmas
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Thank you couldnt have been any more descriptive! Il borrow one from work tomorrow, where would you suggest to look first if it is indeed too high?
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

Too high fuel pressure can be a indication of a kinked/blocked return line.

BTW Welcome Christmas! OK, that was a little weird to type, before Halloween! :D
When you get a chance, introduce yourself in the introductions section and if you can, start a new thread about your problem and we'll see what we can do to help! :thumb Not to discourage you, but by the sound of it, flea is going to have alot of different things going on in this thread. :'(
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Christmas
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Will do, and thanks for welcome and the help!
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Woodie
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flea
Oct 21 2011, 05:41 PM
23 is the IAT circuit (it was unhooked) but it is bad and 32 is the pressure sensor circiut.
32 is the MAP sensor, little black thingy on the firewall with a wiring connector on one end and a vacuum line coming out of the other end and leading to the intake manifold. Bad MAP sensor, clogged or leaking vacuum line, bad wiring between the sensor and the PCM, or bad ground. With all your blinking lights and such, I suspect wiring or ground. Every Metro needs the main sensor ground renewed.


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