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Story line included thanks for reading; Excessive fuel
Topic Started: Oct 19 2011, 09:11 AM (1,988 Views)
flea
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I looked at the top of the throttle body and saw the pressure regulator there and I took out the 4 torx screws, carefully, because it still had pressure in it. The diaphragm was not cracked or broken. I checked out the return line the old-fashioned way. I unhooked it and blew thru it. I could hear bubbles in the fuel tank and it actually blew some gas out. I would not recommend that as a sure way to check for restrictions. I, also, followed the lines back to the tank...no kinks or severe bends.
I have another MAP and will try it and see.
btw, I have the battery light back on when the key is on (bad bulb) but now the rear defrost light is lit on the cluster and it does not even have a rear defogger. I checked the vacuum line to the MAP and it is not plugged.

Thanks for all of your help.

Flea
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flea
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Well, i checked the vacuum line to the MAP (not plugged) and replaced the MAP with a new (to it) one i had. I am headed in the right direction at least the plugs are not dripping gas, but it is still running rich. This car has an OBD1 connector on it and the light is constantly flashing while the car is running. I cant remember where I read it but i remember reading that there is a fuse that you install in the fuse box to get the codes to flash since the cover is missing any idea which one?

So far it needs a new headlight/wiper combination switch, clockspring (horn inop), and to rewire the headlights and horn to work correctly. I'm hoping that will clear up most of the problems.

Flea
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idmetro
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Picture of the diagnostic port on the fuse block is here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/638390/1/#new
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flea
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Thanks idmetro. I pulled the fuse, now the check engine light is not flashing (at least, for the moment).

The poor thing is still soaking the spark plugs. Now it is knocking. I may have to pull the head. I looked inside of #1 cylinder and it has a lot of carbon for an engine that has been rebuilt. Like I said, the head has a heat tab on it so it had been worked on at one time.

But, before I pull the head I want to get the dumping of fuel taken care of first. So I'll trace wires from the MAP to the PCM. But I want to straighten out the rigged wiring so the headlights will work with the switch.

Anybody have a clockspring that will fit a 95 Metro???? The airbag light is on and the horn is inop-a usual sign of a bad clockspring.

Thanks

Flea
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flea
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Well the MAP sensor did it. no more excessive fuel. Now all I have to deal with is the excessive blue smoke and i do mean excessive. If you needed to fog against bugs this would be the car to use.

And now the engine knocks badly. The plugs are oil soaked and black. it's great..when you rev it up a bit smoke comes out of the exhaust manifold by the flange thru the PCV into the air cleaner and pours out the exhaust.

Whoever rebuilt this engine could have done a whole lot better.

And i almost forgot....the clutch is slipping badly

Flea
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idmetro
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Makes me wonder if the oil restrictor valve in the block got left out in the "rebuild". Good Luck!
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

You have a handle on it flea.

When I did my engine install I wish I had installed a new clutch. Mine is not bad but... a little is good, more is better, eh. :)

Sounds like not even Marvel Mystery Oil or Seafoam can affect up your engine. You and idmetro are probably correct.
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flea
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Well here is an update...
I pulled the head and found a piece of rubber hose used instead of the alignment dowels. The head bolts used either 14mm socket or 15mm sockets and the incorrect ones had been ground down to fit.

I am in the process of getting pics of this. Oh yeah. I almost forgot. I was wondering why so much blue smoke. Well the piston rings were all lined up with the gaps so neatly in a row. I am trying to the pics of this.

The radiator is zip-tied in place and the EGR passages were plugged with sludge. I dropped the pan and a cork gasket that had chuncks out of it that were filled with rtv to even it out.

The exhaust was welded to the manifold and there is a large glass pack in place of the convertor.

The rod bearings look as though water was in it at startup. And the babbit is flaking off. I pulled a main bearing cap and it don't look too good either. So I guess I have to pull the rest of the engine/trans....I believe it needs a clutch anyway.

Im going to try to get the pics over so stay tuned
flea
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flea
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Posted Image
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The first pic is the custom horn button and headlight switches due to a bad clockspring and headlight switch.
Second is the engine showing the zip-tied radiator and the wonderful green cable that now work the headlights.
You can see the rod bearingBut the last pic shows how good the car looks. Wish mine looked that good.

Edited by flea, Nov 15 2011, 02:06 PM.
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flea
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I need you opinion.

I pulled the crank on my project and the main bearings are worn and the crank journals are scored.
When you drag your nail across the journal it catches.
So, I was thinking of using some 400 emery cloth to smooth the journals a bit just to take the ridges off.

What do you think......or should I get another crank


Flea
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Coche Blanco
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Troll Certified

If you pull it out, you should carry it to a machinist and ask his opinion.
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marxtoys
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stuck in a dent

flea
Nov 22 2011, 03:53 PM
I need you opinion.
I pulled the crank on my project and the main bearings are worn and the crank journals are scored.
When you drag your nail across the journal it catches.
So, I was thinking of using some 400 emery cloth to smooth the journals a bit just to take the ridges off.
What do you think......or should I get another crank
Flea
I would drag the crank to the machine shop and have it reground, then install with new undersize bearings.
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flea
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Yep.......I think you're right. I pulled the crank last night and the front journal is scored so badly.

Unless anyone has a good used one for sale. I'll see about getting this one turned


Thanks


flea
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