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96 GEO METRO WONT START; enging wont start
Topic Started: Nov 1 2011, 03:07 AM (8,119 Views)
MORPHEUS
Fresh Fish
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HELP!!! Recently rebuilt 96 GEO METRO 3cyl 1.0 motor. It ran good for about two months, then it began to run rough on acceleration (as if you were taking off in 3rd. or 4th gear). Now it wont start at all. Engine will turn over, but it wont start. Compression is good on all cylinders, Fuel pressure is good, TB is getting gas, Pulled plug, it's getting spark, No error codes when engine was scanned. I've checked everything I can think of, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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idmetro
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You say compression is good - what were the numbers? When the car started running poorly did you do any work to the engine? Does it cough/sputter/backfire or just crank?
Edited by idmetro, Nov 1 2011, 04:40 AM.
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MORPHEUS
Fresh Fish
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Compression was about 150. Did not do any other work after rebuild. Car will crank, no sputter or backfire
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Did you use an oil pan gasket? If so that is your issue. Crank sensor signal.
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TimmyD
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A Metro Driver

Johnny Mullet
Nov 1 2011, 07:12 PM
Did you use an oil pan gasket? If so that is your issue. Crank sensor signal.
:hmm

...that's all I gotta say...

:hmm

...but won't that throw a code?
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Welcome to your new forum, MORPHEUS! :coffee

Besides the gasket, have you checked the catalytic converter by pulling the O2 sensor and seeing if it runs better?

150 psi is low but it should improve, or the tester is questionable. Was it a full rebuild?

A loose wire like the ground on the Throttle Body? How about the fuel return tube being clogged? One plug or all three have good spark? Cracked distributor?
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Airsmithy


While trying to diagnose a rough running motor, I replaced the valve shaft seal to repair a leak. I did a dumb thing and didn't correctly torque the timing sprocket back down. Before the seal was replaced, the car would fire, but run rough. After the seal, I couldn't get it to fire. I thought I miss timed the motor, so took of the timing belt to retime, and the sprocket was wobbly! Well, the bolt holding it in place had backed off, allowing the locating pin to come out of the slot, and gouge up the back of the sprocket, and be way of time. Anyway, if all else fails, you may want to check that your timing sprocket is indeed still lined up with the locating pin on the valve shaft.

Good luck,

Dave
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MORPHEUS
Fresh Fish
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Has anyone had an issue with a faulty FUEL INJECTOR RESISTOR or IGNITER located under hood, drivers side firewall?? Still diagnosing starting problem
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jackson007
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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i know its a diff vehicle, but i had a tracker do the same thing twice. one was the key sheared on the crank. The other time was the ecm burnt a trace on the circuit board. i repaired the trace and ran fine. Replaced the key and welded up the end of the crank that had broke out,cleaned up with a drimmel, worked perfect.
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solerpower
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I would redo your compression check. 150 is exactly what I got before I held the accelerator down during the compression check. Rule out the compression issue first (although even with 150 I would think you would hear something other than just crank turn noise if that was the only issue), then I would recheck your spark on all three cylindars. I don't know the wiring schematic for the later g10's but it's fuel or spark. I would third the crank sensor signal, if it controls your injector pulse length, put a test light on the injector or injectors and see what's going on.
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crankcase


Carefully check the vacuum lines for cracks or for any that came loose. Check all plug wires to see if any are loose. Check electrical connectors too.
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wayn
Really fresh fish
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Did the harness ground wires get bolted back onto the back of the intake?
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MORPHEUS
Fresh Fish
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Having difficulty getting METRO timed correctly. When distributor is set correctly, engine runs very rough. Took the torx bolts out of distributor retard engine to approx 20 deg. past TDC and it runs fine. Checked timing marks on cam and crank with #1 piston at TDC, and it is set correctly. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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crankcase


It seems a little odd to jump timming after a couple of months, but who knows? It may be a good idea to start your trouble shooting over from scratch.

Reverify your timing is lined up by looking in the sparkplug hole for piston to be at highest travel and rotor pointing at #1 position. Recheck your fireing order, inspect you distributor and plug wires.

When this kind of thing happens to me, the problem is often something that I think I have ruled out.

If your timing is good, but you have to set it crazy to run, there may be a chance the idle air control system (IAC) or a clogged exhaust system might cause the stymptom, but this is only crude speculation.
Edited by crankcase, Nov 30 2011, 01:59 PM.
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