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My Rustoleum Paint Job
Topic Started: Nov 9 2011, 01:40 PM (6,885 Views)
bkgeig
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Here are some shots after about 6 coats sprayed. I'm going to spray twice more tonight and then remove the masking paper. Hopefully I don't have any overspray that got through. I used green painters tape because I had it sitting around and wanted to use it up. The hardest part to keep sealed was along the top of the doors; the tape doesn't want to stick to the vinyl headliner there. But I'm pretty confident that there won't be much overspray that can sneak through. We'll see.

Pictures can't really show the details. The sprayed paint looks decent. No orange peel but some small splatter. I haven't decided whether I'll sand and polish areas like the door jambs. They won't be visible most of the time anyway. I plan to sand the flat areas like the roof and rear quarter panels with 1000 grit on the orbital sander, then go over at least a couple of times with the roller. Followed by a couple more rolls, 2000 grit on the orbital then buff and polish. I'm certainly no expert when it comes to painting, but my experience has been that I always have to sand and polish after rolling or spraying to get the smooth finish I want.

My experience has been that Rustoleum takes a while to "harden." It's an enamel paint, completely different than two-part epoxies used on modern cars. Most forums say to wait at least 6 months before waxing.

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nwgeo


Okay so you are using rustolem but spraying it on. Then at the very last you roll some on with final sanding/polishing?
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bkgeig
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Well, it looks like my spraying technique needs some work. There was more orange peel then I initially thought. I sanded the roof and driver side quarter panel with 320 grit and will start rolling them and the hood soon. Unfortunately, it's been a few months since I sanded and I burned through some edges. Rolling will take longer.

I still plan to spray the inside of the hatch, but I'll spend some time setting up and experimenting with the gun before I spray again. Here's a video I found useful for setting up an HVLP gun: HVLP Set Up

I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.
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Deckers
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I used the same Rustoleum {except Signal Red} paint to do mine. It looked just fine for three years, but now have to reshoot it. The Industrial Urethane they make is better to spray, lasts ten times longer, and you will never have to wax it. Walmart or Fastenal for $25 a gallon. The are several other sites you can find with advice on harder's to add to make it dry a bit faster and catalyze for even better quality finish.

To set your HVLP gun do the following, set the fluid control about half, then turn the pressure up until it sprays a heavy mist. Wind out the pattern knob until it spreads out to a fine 5 to 6 inch pattern. Then adjust the air pressure again to control the paint volume and the mist vapor to desired consistency.

Never try to shoot in one pass. Do a crosshatch spray pattern with one full set of passes on each panel going up and down, then start all over going back and forth. When you have 70-80 percent coverage in the first misty spray coat, and recoat lightly for finish on the second coat it turns out fine within five minutes - so don't reshoot what you think is thin right away. Give it a minute.

The ideal is generally to set the gun to as heavy a paint flow as you can use without getting runs. {right to the limit in other words.} Then accelerate your arm to shoot those mist coats instead of "one-shot" coating. Sand off those little sags or orange peal and recoat with a light coat that has been over thinned a bit to settle the finish coat on with a good shine.

Currently I am shooting over a hundreds gallons of Enamel paint a week for a living. And yes I get runs sometimes, and I do get orange peal. But in the fine finish world of automotive painting - color sanding is the rule and not the exception. Rarely do people shoot a car or pickup to perfection anymore in only one paint session. 220 wet sand the areas but do not grind it down to the primer if you can help it, otherwise you will have to repaint the primer to the same level or risk a candy coat type of paint error.

And this is another issue which is rarely discussed. You can buy primer in white, grey, red, black, and yellow. You would be surprised the difference in shade it will give your ride.
Edited by Deckers, Jan 5 2012, 07:44 PM.
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Awesome-X
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Is that the purple HVLP gun? That's one of the cheapest and best guns out there! Can't wait to see the final product!
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bkgeig
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Man I'm discouraged to hear that your paint only looked good for 3 years. I knew that longevity could be an issue, though I've seen posts where people said their paint still looked good after a couple of years. I guess time will only tell with my paint job. Thanks for the pointers on the gun. I can't wait to try it again on the hatch.

Currently I'm rolling the roof and driver's side rear quarter. Two coats has covered much of the burn through areas. I'm going to sand with 320 tonight or tomorrow and then expect to paint a few more coats. For a car this small, I think I prefer rolling for most of the areas, especially flat panels. I still haven't decided about the door sills. They have quite a bit of orange peel, but I can probably live with it.

I hope to finish the roof and quarter panels in a couple of weeks. Then I can install the doors, which are done, and install the fenders and hood, which need a couple of finish coats. I think the end is in sight! I hit a low point last week when it seemed the body would never be finished. This has been a long haul, much longer than I expected when I started last summer. I want to get the car on the road and stop driving my pickup.
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bkgeig
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Lot of work over the last few months but not a lot to report until recently. Paint, paint, paint, paint, sand, paint, paint, paint, paint, sand, etc., etc. Got the rear of the car painted, sanded and buffed/polished before family came in town. They helped me reassemble the rear end and put the doors back on. Finished installing the underbody brace last night. I hope to finish the AC install this weekend. Then I have to finish converting the driving lights to dual filament flashers and wire the side markers I'm adding. Hopefully by next week I've installed the fenders and started on the last bit of painting. I snapped a couple of low-quality pics this morning. Once the painting is done I'll get better pics outside.

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bkgeig
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Wow, I can't believe it was May when I last posted. This project has moved much slower than I ever imagined it would. But the end is in sight! The AC is installed and working. You can see the brand new drier in the pic below. Now I have to bolt on the bumper and bumper cover and put on the new wheels. I'll paint the skirts later this winter.

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The trim above and below the rear quarter window was ridiculously expensive, but I figured I'd better buy it while I still can.

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Scoobs
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Now all you need is a set of my silver, or black decals :) Or, i can make you some in White :D
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clarkdw


You are close now. Nice work! :thumb :thumb
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rjsdotorg
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Nice job!

Has anyone here tried the Majic paints?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Yenkin-Majestic-Majic-Tractor-and-Implement-Enamel-Gallon-White/22060508
I've seen OK reviews, with the exception that they aren't super UV stable.
Edited by rjsdotorg, Dec 4 2012, 05:38 PM.
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94RHDRollerskate
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Nice! When I first read 'Rustoleum' I was thinking spray-bomb aerosols, and when I saw the close up pics of the doors done, I was impressed. Then I noticed the gravity feed spray gun. Makes since now. I need to spray my rear hatch, and will probably end up spray-bombing it this weekend just to get the car all white. Starting to annoy me. Eventually want to get body work done, and the car sprayed.

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Edited by 94RHDRollerskate, Oct 23 2013, 02:28 AM.
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rjsdotorg
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The Duplicolor is a perfect match - blends perfectly.
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bkgeig
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Final shots sans skirts, which I still need to paint, and molding around windshield and hatch glass. Still needs washing, polishing and waxing, but that'll have to wait till spring. Now if only I could figure out why this thing still runs rich.

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Tofuball
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NICE. Good job!
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