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| Crank shaft hard to turn | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 18 2011, 08:44 PM (3,618 Views) | |
| undgsx-R | Nov 19 2011, 02:26 AM Post #16 |
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Self Certified Garage Mechanic
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It looks like a weak battery.q |
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| Spidermoore | Nov 22 2011, 02:40 PM Post #17 |
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I'm going to borrow another battery tonight and give it another crank just too see if it turns over faster. If so, then I'll put it back together and try to fire it up. |
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 22 2011, 07:17 PM Post #18 |
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Troll Certified
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Did you use a berry hone? |
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| Spidermoore | Nov 23 2011, 03:20 PM Post #19 |
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No berry hone, it was one of those spring loaded tripod type things. I borrowed a battery yesterday and got it going. It turned the bottom end much more quickly, so I was confident the bottom end was working okay and the slowness was now simply my old battery. Put the oil pan back on, put the valve cover back on, spark plugs, and it fired up right away. Great! Except is is leaking pretty good from the front somewhere and it is clickity-claking a fair bit. I assume the timing has to be adjusted yet (didn't run it long enough to fiddle with the timing due to the amount of oil leakage.) I must have missed a CAM seal or something as it is not a normal leak that an old gasket or seal would do. The volume of the leak must be from something missing altogether. |
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| GeoPete | Nov 23 2011, 06:22 PM Post #20 |
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AAS Auto Technology past ASE Master Tech
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Are the thrust bearings installed correctly? There is a spec for crankshaft endplay. Did you use plastigage as a double check on the bearings? |
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| Woodie | Nov 24 2011, 06:14 AM Post #21 |
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The clickity clack is probably the valve lifters, they'll stop once they pump up to spec. |
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| Spidermoore | Nov 29 2011, 12:29 AM Post #22 |
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I was right. CAM seal was missing, now okay. Dry Compression Numbers: Cyl1: 220 Cyl2: 210 Cyl3: 200 Still seems to be clicking. Maybe I'll post another vid later this week and see what folks here think. |
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| compjake | Nov 29 2011, 01:01 AM Post #23 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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Those numbers look pretty good ![]() I would second the lifters, when I rebuilt my lifters I didn't put any oil in them and they made a really bad clicking sound for the first 2-3 miles then the sound went away. Make sure you also check the crankshaft pulley bolt before you even start it again! Mine came loose and not only caused a bad knocking sound that I thought was a bad rod bearing but it really messed up the crank and the pulley. Now I'm trying to weld the pulley on because the threads in the crank got messed up so bad the bolt wont go in. |
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| Spidermoore | Nov 29 2011, 11:59 PM Post #24 |
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Here it is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4NkekN-p6w&feature=youtube_gdata_player I took it for about a 10km spin tonight and it did settle down a fair amount from that vid, but I do still notice it. I should mention that I got a head rebuild from 3Tech with an economy grind. I have the timing set to 10 but perhaps it needs to be different with the different grind. Is it still okay for me to drive it a bit (my work commute is only 6kms twice a day) without damaging it? compjake, I never took the crank bolt off so I don't think it would be an issue but I'll keep that in mind. |
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| compjake | Nov 30 2011, 01:31 AM Post #25 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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I would still check to make sure anyway, if you didn't already check it when you rebuilt it. You never know if it was loose before the rebuild. |
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| compjake | Nov 30 2011, 01:55 AM Post #26 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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After watching the video, I really want to say its the lifters. Can you take 1 more video like this but rev the engine a couple times? |
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| Woodie | Nov 30 2011, 06:29 AM Post #27 |
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That's not ping, and you don't hear ping at idle anyway. You hear it when the engine is under load, usually two thirds throttle or so. That sounds like collapsed lifters to me but I would have though it would have stopped after a 10K drive. |
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| snowfish | Nov 30 2011, 01:07 PM Post #28 |
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Basic GearHead
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10km is barely up to operating temp. Feel the oil on your dip stick. It's still pretty chilly. The coolant comes up to temp way before the oil warms up. I'd take it for a solid 15-20 minute drive and see what it sounds like. Bet you'll be fine. 3Tech sends the lifters dry. Well, lightly oiled. Mine took close to 1/2 hour to settle down. But my cam grind required close to max pump up too. |
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| Spidermoore | Dec 1 2011, 11:49 PM Post #29 |
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Okay, it isn't a ping I guess. But what is it? It doesn't sound quite right. I've taken the Sprint to work a few times this week and also got it up to not quite highway speeds at 80km/hr without incident but this sound still worries me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=kM4_HAVvKMo Also, perhaps related, perhaps not, when the engine is cold (I don't mean dead cold, but running for a short time, five minutes lets say, but not yet up to temp), I can't go above about 2500RPM without the engine just bogging down and losing power. This bogging down seems to go away once the engine is warm though. |
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| compjake | Dec 2 2011, 12:13 AM Post #30 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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Sounds like your timing is off.. When I first started having issues with my crank sprocket being loose I had the same problem but it wouldn't rev over 3000-3500rpm. |
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