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| Engine Oil Leak (v_v); 1994, Three Cylinder, 178K | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 20 2011, 10:06 PM (1,456 Views) | |
| mathemattician | Nov 20 2011, 10:06 PM Post #1 |
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Advanced Member
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Ever since I purchased my Geo back in 2009 I've had to add 1 quart of oil every 2 weeks. I did a little inspection this evening and I notice some oil makings between the engine and the transmission, I'm guessing its the back seal that needs to be changed?!?! but what do you guys think? It is not a noticeable drip, but I can definitely tell it's engine oil. There is also a sign of oil leaking between the crank pulley and the oil pan, I'm guessing this one is the front crank seal??? Are these jobs very difficult to do? has anyone ever done it or posted here about it? all I know is, I would like to get this issue fixed over this break before school starts.
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| Memphis metro | Nov 20 2011, 10:16 PM Post #2 |
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http://geometroforum.com/topic/3083546/5/#new |
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| mathemattician | Nov 20 2011, 10:29 PM Post #3 |
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Advanced Member
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Sweet thanks, does anyone know how i can fix the leak between the engine and tranny? |
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| Memphis metro | Nov 20 2011, 10:31 PM Post #4 |
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Heres both seals, front seal mounts in oil pump. Rear mounts between engine and tranny and requires tranny removal. You might want to check your transmission fluid level. I would replace the leaking front crank seal first and see how much oil you have to add after that. If its not that bad after that, you might could live with it. It might be your transmission that is leaking on the back side.![]()
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| razr769 | Nov 20 2011, 10:36 PM Post #5 |
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Got boost?
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Oil on the transmission is most likely the distributor o-ring. It's not difficult to fix at all. Here's a how-to for it http://geometroforum.com/topic/3207197/1/ My guess for the other leak is either a cam seal or crank seal. I don' know how much you drive, but when my cam seal blew out I was using a quart pretty quickly. The pcv valve is known to plug up and build up enough pressure to blow out the cam seal. There's a how-to for it here http://geometroforum.com/topic/4193973/1/?x=30 This gives you an idea for the camshaft seal http://geometroforum.com/topic/1565837/1/?x=30 EDG has the crankshaft link covered. Good luck |
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| mathemattician | Nov 20 2011, 10:52 PM Post #6 |
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Seeing all of this makes me wanna cry... There is so much work just to change a little seal... especially the rear one with the fly wheel and all...
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| crankcase | Nov 20 2011, 11:01 PM Post #7 |
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If you're going to do the one aginst the flywheel, you can put in a new clutch for about $100.00 ($150.00 with new flywheel). It's not real hard, but it's not real easy. Plus, it's kind of nice to plan the clutch job so you don't get caught by surprise and have to be down a couple of days or pay $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ to have someone do it. You could also just live with the bad seal. Edited by crankcase, Nov 20 2011, 11:33 PM.
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| mathemattician | Nov 20 2011, 11:05 PM Post #8 |
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Well everyone, thanks for your help, I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help ignorant people like me. Wish me luck. |
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| Memphis metro | Nov 20 2011, 11:07 PM Post #9 |
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One other thing worth mentioning. Seals have a spring on the inside lip. I have had these springs jump out. Make very sure your spring stays in the seal. Always apply some kind of sealant around the outside of the seals where they mount in the housings as well. Post 16 in the thread below gives a little more information about seal replacement. Its not a metro but the procedures are the same. http://geometroforum.com/topic/4464045/2/ |
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| Bad Bent | Nov 21 2011, 08:44 PM Post #10 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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I would recommend you start with the distributor o-ring. It is the easiest. 1. Mark the position of the distributor at the top bolt, a like across the part that moves to the part it would be bolted to. Remove the vacuum hoses or unplug the distributor. 2. remove the distributor two bolts and let is rest on the tranny. 3. loosen the two 12 or 13mm bolts holding it on. 4. Rotate and pull on the distributor until it comes out of the block. 5. Remove old ring, install new and reverse the process. I added a thin layer of oil on the o-ring to help it install easier. The end of the distributor is an off set notch and only goes in one way. Seriously, I was upset I hadn't done it sooner and wasted oil. You do this and the PCV and you will be ready to tackle the timing belt cover.
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| mathemattician | Nov 21 2011, 10:05 PM Post #11 |
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Hey guys, So this morning I did a further inspection on the oil leak and poked around the distributor, You guys where right, the oil leak was coming from just under the distributor cap. I'm pretty relieved that the oil leak is coming from the distributor cap and not from the crank seals, I'm a little suprised that the o ring is 22 bucks, so much money for such a small rubber band, but its a small price to pay compared to the amount of work. Thanks bad bent for the detailed list, and razr for the link. I still have to replace the front crank seal but that should be cake compared to the rear crank, thanks for the links and all your help Doctor Geo. |
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| crankcase | Nov 21 2011, 10:24 PM Post #12 |
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I went to the Zone - I think - and got one for a couple of $ from their general purpose collection by visually matching it.
Edited by crankcase, Nov 21 2011, 10:30 PM.
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| Memphis metro | Nov 21 2011, 10:29 PM Post #13 |
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Whatever you do, dont pay 22 bucks for a oring! If nothing else take the distributor with you to napa and let them match you up a oring for a buck or so. |
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| mathemattician | Nov 22 2011, 02:28 PM Post #14 |
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I went to a mechanic shop to ask if he had a o-ring to spare... He comes out with a case of like 100 in different sizes, does anyone know what size I will need? also I might as well redo the time on the metro, quick questions, I've read on here that many of you guys set your timing to 8 degrees, can anyone help me and explain why? is it beneficial? |
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| Bad Bent | Nov 22 2011, 03:15 PM Post #15 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Click on http://geometroforum.com/topic/3207197/1/ for directions and size. Beneficial for developing less carbon in the exhaust. A more complete burn in the combustion chamber. A little more "power." The 5 deg. setting is good for less Nitrous Oxide emission and is an "average" setting for performance, not optimum. IIRC |
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all I know is, I would like to get this issue fixed over this break before school starts.






There is so much work just to change a little seal...
especially the rear one with the fly wheel and all...

1:58 PM Jul 11