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Timing Belt Replacement
Topic Started: Nov 25 2011, 02:13 AM (9,527 Views)
nerys
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Grr

My timing belt broke tonight. Driving home poof engine off coasting. checked in oil cap engine cranks fast no cam spin. Grrrr and of course my new one is sitting in horsham a few miles away and ups won't let me have it till its "delivery date" monday. Grrrrrrr (I hate ups)

so if its not too much will buy one tomorrow and install. would be nice to have a spare in the car for the future anyway.

SO I spent the last hour clicking and searching and nada. (search really does blow :-) hehe

so where is the best thread on installing a timing belt after it snaps.

will do tensioner later when the new one gets here.

do I have to remove anything more than the cover? (I don't have the other parts yet water pump etc..)
Edited by nerys, Nov 25 2011, 02:13 AM.
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nerys
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Grr

and we are sure this is a non interference engine? so far EVERY parts store lists it as an interference engine.
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Shinrin
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I took off and re did my timing a week or two ago. Took off the timing cover, Alt belt, Ac belt, alt pulley, and the timing pulley, all just to get the timing cover off.
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nerys
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Grr

alternator pulley? its no where near the timing cover?

forgot about the crank pulley. Grr have to see whats involved in getting that off. I am hoping I don't need to get the water pump pulley off to work around it (not doing tensioner just yet)
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nerys
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Grr

Found it (google)

http://geometroforum.com/topic/2232748/1/
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crankcase


I just had to take off the crank pully. I had to use a 1/4 ratchet with necessary extension to work in the confined space. I had to access it by laying down (I like jobs like that). There is very little room to work in, so you have to turn the crank/cam ect. to get the screws to point down towards the ground where there is a little hollow aginst the fender well that allows you access. The screws should not be too tight, but you will have to provide counter resistance (put in gear and use e-brake). Once you have the belts and the crank pully off, you can get to all the timing belt cover screws to remove it. Don't forget to line up the timing marks to make getting the new belt on easier.
Edited by crankcase, Nov 25 2011, 04:16 AM.
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Woodie
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Absolutely non-interference, no worries there. You don't need to take off the big Jesus bolt in the middle of the crank pulley, just the little four or five around it.
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Memphis metro


Be sure once you have replaced it, to rotate the engine around a couple of times and recheck your timing marks and make sure you are not off a tooth. Another good piece of advise is to use a six point socket on those small crankshaft pulley bolts. You round one off and you will be sorry. They are small and its not hard to do.
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idmetro
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Woodie
Nov 25 2011, 07:02 AM
Absolutely non-interference, no worries there. You don't need to take off the big Jesus bolt in the middle of the crank pulley, just the little four or five around it.
:gp I've broken two; (no ill effects) simply replace and go again. :thumb
Edited by idmetro, Nov 25 2011, 08:53 AM.
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Tofuball
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Strange Mechanic

Definitely non interference.

Timing belt takes 40 minutes to do. Very easy on these cars, especially if you're not afraid to lower the engine. (Two bolts on the front mount and a jack under the engine)

Though you don't have to lower it.
Edited by Tofuball, Nov 25 2011, 09:06 AM.
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crankcase


Quote:
 
Very easy on these cars, especially if you're not afraid to lower the engine. (Two bolts on the front mount and a jack under the engine)

Cool tip! Can you get a socket on the big bolt (for counter force) and a socket on the little ones at the same time to remove the pully?



Getting the tensioner back on right is always a miniature battle; just another example of when it would be nice to have a third hand. I've always had to take it off to adjust the belt if it is off by a tooth :-/ .
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

crankcase
Nov 25 2011, 09:39 AM
Quote:
 
Very easy on these cars, especially if you're not afraid to lower the engine. (Two bolts on the front mount and a jack under the engine)

Cool tip! Can you get a socket on the big bolt (for counter force) and a socket on the little ones at the same time to remove the pully?



Getting the tensioner back on right is always a miniature battle; just another example of when it would be nice to have a third hand. I've always had to take it off to adjust the belt if it is off by a tooth :-/ .
Yes you can, it doesn't take much force to loosen the smaller 4-5 bolts, so using the crank bolt is fine for this

Removing the tensioner is not necessary for puting on the belt, just loosen the slider bolt and barely loosen the actual tensioner bolt so you can push up on the slider to move the tensioner into it's slack position.
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nerys
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Grr

what slider bolt? I see a bolt hold but no bolt in fact it appears the bolt in the "center" of the timing cover goes into that hole ?? (just want to be sure I am not missing something :-)
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91 ragtop
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The 10mm bolt in the middle of the timing cover needs to be loosened as well as the 12mm bolt that holds on the tensioner. Once these are loose you'll be able to see how the tensioner works to tighten up the belt.

Ken....
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Memphis metro


The slider bolt secures the little metal tab with a dog on it that goes in the tensioner recess on the back of it. The spring attaches to the metal tab. Do not forget to tighten both back.

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