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| Major crankshaft issues | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 26 2011, 10:38 PM (7,536 Views) | |
| Tofuball | Nov 27 2011, 11:19 AM Post #16 |
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Strange Mechanic
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I made my keyway whole again with JB weld and files. Then I got a new key and smacked everything on with a ton of locktite. BTW: a crank w/ bearings is ~$160 from rock auto. That's cheaper then the machine work involved to cut a keyway and turn it at most shops. |
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| 91 ragtop | Nov 27 2011, 11:34 AM Post #17 |
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I think this is the best idea yet for an easy fix. I would use a little bigger bit so the dowel has more strenght. Just drop your right side motor mount so you can lower the engine and drill straight into the crank. Ken.... |
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| Memphis metro | Nov 27 2011, 12:11 PM Post #18 |
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I have seen this done but I only have one concern. For this to work well, the dowel would need to be a fraction larger than the hole and a tight fit within the hole and for that to happen it would require a bit of hammering to drive it in. That could cause some play within your thurst washers or damage, given enough hammering. One thing is for sure, if he welds it, puts a bolt in it, puts set screws in it, Jb welds it, puts in the new dowel key, hes gonna have a crankshaft gear that will never come off or wear.
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| clarkdw | Nov 27 2011, 06:10 PM Post #19 |
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3/16" is plenty big. I don't like to go too big for fear of weakening the crank snout. Don't forget you are drilling outside the threaded hole. As cobrajet25 said, the key is only to locate the sprocket till the bolt tightens up. You do not need a press or drive fit, a slip fit is fine. Adding the Devcon or JB weld to the original keyway helps locate it as well. No need to worry about removing it later because if it works, which it should, you won't have to remove the sprocket till the engine really does need a rebuild. If it fails then the crank was too far worn to hold any repair and there will be no saving it further. Anew crank will be needed. |
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| clarkdw | Nov 27 2011, 06:15 PM Post #20 |
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I forgot to add one very important detail. if you install the dowel or pin as a new key make absolutely sure that it is below the end of the sprocket ie: the washer does NOT hit the dowel before tightening up on the sprocket. The dowel must be below flush, otherwise you will not be retaining the sprocket properly. |
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| drivinalunchbox | Nov 27 2011, 06:53 PM Post #21 |
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old time wrench turner
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Easy fix, do exactly as Cobrajet25 advises except add these important steps; Go to Caterpillar dealer and buy part # 1U-8846 Gasket Maker and the primer/cleaner for it. Then clean the mounting surface well with steel brush, emery cloth, etc. Glue the new pulley on with the Gasket Maker smeared all around the shaft and inside the pulley. Be careful not to get any in the bolt hole or inside the motor. Then continue just as Cobrajet25 says. In my career I have used tons of this stuff and it works. The outside dual wheel on a Cat 773 Ore Truck is not held on by the same lug studs as the inside one is. The outside one hammered all 48 lug studs till they came out of the hub and the wheel/tire fell off in the pit. The new hub was just over $7000. Boss said "fix it and don't buy the hub" 48 new lug studs all glued in with Gasket Maker left for the weekend to cure. Bolted the wheel/tire on and she was still hauling ore over a year later when I left for greener pastures. Edited by drivinalunchbox, Nov 27 2011, 06:54 PM.
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| compjake | Nov 27 2011, 09:06 PM Post #22 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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I appreciate the thought but I've yet to find any active members on this site within 50 miles. You can do it from home, but it requires lots of chemicals to be stored on site and the machine connects to the person on dialysis way different then how a dialysis center does so surgery would be required to add a new access to the person. Thanks, PM sent. I think the welding will fix it, I got a late start today so I didn't get home with the welder until about 2pm and its dark here by 5pm. I Filled in the gap where the key should be then basically used the weld to create a key, then I slipped the pulley on to find the threads are stripped out. (ya think I would have noticed that sooner) so I'm started to weld the pulley on for now so I can keep driving and use this time to save up for a full rebuild. ![]() ![]() Hows it looking so far? I have a bit more area to weld together and some grinding to do, but I think its going well so far. |
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| 91 ragtop | Nov 27 2011, 09:43 PM Post #23 |
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I hope you put in a new crankseal in there before welding that up. Ken... |
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| Memphis metro | Nov 27 2011, 09:47 PM Post #24 |
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Hope it works out for you. Lets put it this way. It has to work now. Hope the heat does not create a massive leak at the seal. Would not matter if it were a new seal or not when it comes to the heat. Maybe since it is protected by the gear, it will not harm it. |
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| compjake | Nov 27 2011, 09:48 PM Post #25 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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Well, sorta. I installed a new one like 4-5k miles ago and I made sure it was still in good condition before welding. That was one of my biggest concerns when doing this.
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| Jittney | Nov 27 2011, 11:05 PM Post #26 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Lots of us watching this thread today...and wishing you the best. It's one thing to push the envelope on how to repair something that's thrashed. It's another thing to have the pressure of needing the car for medical appointments. Hang in there...and remember, we're pulling for you. ![]() |
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| clarkdw | Nov 28 2011, 12:58 AM Post #27 |
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Like I previously posted. There's always a way. Even if you need to change the seal at a later date you can grind off the weld and do it again with a new to you sprocket. I think it should get the job done for now.
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| wizard93 | Nov 28 2011, 01:06 AM Post #28 |
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If she were on the peritoneal dialysis, then it would be the norm to do the dialysis at home. She's probably on the hemodialysis, which is often preferred over peritoneal especially if there are other health issues involved. With hemodialysis, they can draw off excess fluid as needed, as well as add components to the blood (potassium, platelets, etc.). Praying for good health for your mother, Jake. |
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| compjake | Nov 28 2011, 02:12 AM Post #29 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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Thank everyone I had thought about what I would do if the seal starts leaking, I figured I would just grind the pulley off and rebuild the engine with a new crank and pulley. Knowing a rebuild is needed this gives me a chance to start buying parts so I ready for it when something else fails. I just wish my compression was for shit so a rebuild would be needed for a serious reason, this just blows lol.I'm not sure what type of dialysis she does, she goes 3 days week and spends 3 1/2 hours on the machine each time. Thankfully shes been doing a lot better since shes been on dialysis health wise, we just have to keep things going how they are and all should be well. After doing this for 3 years it gets to be pretty routine lol Anyway, thanks wizard93. My family and I really appreciate it
Edited by compjake, Nov 28 2011, 02:19 AM.
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| compjake | Nov 28 2011, 10:22 PM Post #30 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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I got quite a bit done today. I finished welding the pulley and got a chance to weld up the front half of my exhaust. Bottom end put back together and cleaned the edge of the block so its ready for a new RTV gasket and the oil pan. ![]() Got (enough of) the old RTV off the oil pan. ![]() ![]() All put back together ![]() Looks like its time to replace this belt. (it was rubbing on a loose bolt from the timing belt cover.) ![]() Where I've been working the last few days. ![]() I put 4 quarts of fresh Valvoline 5-20 oil with a new Fram PH8A Extra Guard oil filter. (yeah, I know fram sucks lol) Holy crap those filters are huge vs stock size! lol Anyway, I do have some bad news. After everything was put back together I tried to start the car, it started and idled like complete crap. Shortly after it died and would't start again, when I checked the pulley I welded I found my welds broke and the pulley almost came off. Plan for tomorrow, remove all belts and pulleys then weld the pulley back on.. again. My guess is the weld failed because after welding it I grind it down so it looks better, I'm thinking I took too much of the weld off. Edited by compjake, Nov 28 2011, 10:25 PM.
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Well, sorta. I installed a new one like 4-5k miles ago and I made sure it was still in good condition before welding. That was one of my biggest concerns when doing this.

I think it should get the job done for now.






3:19 AM Jul 11