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Major crankshaft issues
Topic Started: Nov 26 2011, 10:38 PM (7,535 Views)
Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

OH NO!
Really sorry to hear it broke!
Hope you get it welded up again.
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billy508
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billy508

Place your ground as close as you can to the gear. You dont want to pass welding current thru a bearing. The is a chance the current will damage the bearing. Might not in you case but it helps to have the ground close. A wet rag draped around the gear will help keep it cool and help save the seal. You could grind out a small section where the gear and the crank fit together. Then you will have a little more to weld to . You may already have this when you clean up your weld. Good Luck. Hope it all works out for you. :thumb :thumb :thumb
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compjake
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I had the ground attached to the counter weight for cylinder 1 on the crankshaft. Now that I have the oil pan back on I'll probably have to attach the ground to one of the bolts that hold the accessory pulley to the crank pulley.
I'm not too worried about the heat getting to the seal, the welder only has a 15% duty cycle so I only weld for 10-20 seconds before I stop, clean off the slag and see how I'm doing. Thanks for the tip though :) I never thought about that, maybe I'll grind 3-4 v shape notches in the crank and pulley then weld it all up.

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Scoobs
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:D

Ooooohhh.... boy....... i sense something bad is going to unfold! lol.
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compjake
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Don't jinx me now! lol
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Scoobs
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:D

well, i think what your not understanding is that a weld with a cheap welder just wont realy cut it, you have ALOT of force actually being applied on that pully, a small welder realy is not capable of getting a good penetrating weld. its too bad you werent closer, id bring both my welders up there, my 220 miller stick welder, and my miller 110 wire feed...... and my spare crank if all else failed lol

Oh forgot to mention, also you dont want to get that shaft too hot, it will melt that crank seal..... and then youve done it for nothing
Edited by Scoobs, Nov 28 2011, 11:54 PM.
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compjake
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I know the welder is cheap but go read some reviews on it, most people agree that its the best arc welder your going to find for under $300. So, I doubt the issue is the welder. Sadly, the issue is me. lol If you go back and look at the (full size) pics of my welds you can see pretty easily that I had grind too much of the weld off. I just didn't notice until after it was too late.

Yeah, I've been careful to not get things too hot. That's one of the reasons I only weld for a 10-20 seconds at a time.
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Tofuball
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Strange Mechanic

Clamp something metal to the back end to serve as a heat sink.

If you're going to weld this, don't even weld for ten seconds, just get a nice good puddle going and make a SPOT and then STOP. Allow to cool, repeat on a different location if desired.

You don't want to build up material, you want to melt the two pieces together.
Edited by Tofuball, Nov 29 2011, 01:36 AM.
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compjake
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To the back end of what? I'm doing the work with the crank in the engine and the engine in the car with the trans still attached.. The only place I can clamp. anything is by dropping the oil pan again, and I would rather not do that.
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Tofuball
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Strange Mechanic

To the back end of the gear. If the heat is going through the seal, it's already too late :P
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compjake
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Do you mean the part of the gear where the belt normally sits? The back of the gear is against the engine and cant have something clamped to it with the crank in the car..
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billy508
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billy508

Grounding to the gear will be ok. If you can not get your ground clamp in to position , you might use a small c clamp then attaceh your ground to it. Good luck. Hope it works out for you. :thumb :thumb :thumb
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marxtoys
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stuck in a dent

Taps aren't real crazy expensive. How about cutting some new threads and bolting the sprocket on??
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compjake
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I thought about that but at this point its too late, the hole for the bolt is almost closed up with weld.
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compjake
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I didn't get a chance to do any welding today, but I made it to harbor freight to buy 2 male and 2 female 3 prong 110v plugs and a 30/50amp 4 prong 250v male plug. I had to make a adapter that would allow me to run 220v 30amp(peak) through two 110v 20amp(peak) extension cords. Each cord has half of the 220 line running though it so each cord only has 110v and 15amp(peak) flowing through it.

I spent about 20 min testing it in the garage, no wires get warm and the welder works about 100 times better.
I was running it on 110v up till now (I didn't have a 4 prong extension cord)
Edited by compjake, Nov 30 2011, 03:43 AM.
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