Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Major crankshaft issues
Topic Started: Nov 26 2011, 10:38 PM (7,533 Views)
compjake
Member Avatar
Mostest Elitest Member

I finally got a chance to finish up the welding tonight. I went to Lowes and bought a 5lb box of Lincoln AC7018 welding rods, I opened up the welder and replaced the thin POS 10-12awg cables with 4awg tsunami battery cable. (should be able to handle way more amps than the welder can provide) After that, the original 6013 rods I used needed about 20 amps less than before. So, I can tell the old leads where too small to allow the current to get through.

I got the pulley welded on really well, and I got the exhaust welded up. (no more squeeks!!!) Timing is at 10*btdc, I have fresh 5-20 oil in the engine and even flushed the radiator while I was down there (I've never flushed it, ever. either has the original owner)

When I try to start the car it starts every time even if you only turn the key for a split second. I used to have to hold the key for 1-2 seconds before it would start. The knocking sound that I thought was a spun rob bearing is completely gone now (YAY!)
Honestly, this engine hasn't run this smooth or had this much whp in a long time. As long as my welds hold I shouldn't have an issue for a very long time.

The batteries in my camera died last night and I forgot to put it on the charger so I couldn't take any pics, but I will charge it tonight and take a few pics tomorrow. :)

Thank you all very much! I really appreciate all the help you guys provided :D
Oh, btw Steved82971. This welder is more than capable for this job, once you hook it to a 220 line and upgrade the size of the weld leads. Just thought you would like to know lol
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

Posted Image
Yay!!!!!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
billy508
Member Avatar
billy508

Good Job!!! Now you want to keep those rods dry. Find something air tight to keep them in. A heated box works best but You can use a piece of 3 inch or so pvc with a cap on one end and a male adapter and threaded pipe cap on the other. The 6018 are a low hydrogen rod and suck up moisture very quickly. The dryer you keep them the better they are. If you can find a cord off of a 220 piece of equipment you can use for your power cord. Good welding leads are getting pretty expensive but just keep a look out at yard sales and such. Here is a set up I just sold.. I used a power cord from a heavy duty power washer. Glad to see you complete a difficult job, :thumb :thumb :thumb Posted Image :banana :banana :banana
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
compjake
Member Avatar
Mostest Elitest Member

Thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind and leave the rods in the house until I get something to put them in.

That's why I made an adapter to run the 220v though 2 8awg extension cords (the cords are wired in parallel not series).
For the leads that come out and attach to the part your working on, it makes no sence to buy "welding cable" Its cheaper to buy battery cable in bulk and use it, as long as its the proper gauge the only difference is a slightly thinner insulation. As long as you don't pinch the leads or burn them they will work just as well. That'y why I used Tsunami 4awg wire, its the same as 4awg welding cable and it was free. (I still had about 20ft left on the spool after my stereo install)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Scoobs
Member Avatar
:D

very Very nice. glad to see it worked out :D looks like i can still save my cranks for someone else :D Lol *mumbles- crap was loking foward to my newsystem i wasgonna buy"* :D
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
compjake
Member Avatar
Mostest Elitest Member

Me two lol :D I don't know if I would say that. I'm going to start buying parts so I can rebuild it when the crank seal goes, and buying the new crank from you was\is going to be my first purchase. I just need to come up with more money first lol
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Scoobs
Member Avatar
:D

Well now :D brings a smile to my face. Maybe my memphis 10"s and amp are closer to being mine :D
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
compjake
Member Avatar
Mostest Elitest Member

Lol, I would say they probably are :D It may take me a while to get the money (need to catch up on a couple bills I couldn't pay so I could afford the welder) If some one else has cash before I do go ahead and sell it, if not I'll take it :)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Scoobs
Member Avatar
:D

ill hang onto it for ya, dontchu worry :P ill set the motor the good one is in, off to the side in my shed.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
compjake
Member Avatar
Mostest Elitest Member

That would be awesome :) Thank you very much :D
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Bad Bent
Member Avatar
Facetious Educated Donkey

:congrats

Nice piece of work!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
starscream5000
Member Avatar
Got 70 MPG?

Here's something else you could do as added insurance.
http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=583893&t=4464045
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Johnny Mullet
Member Avatar
Fear the Mullet

Glad you got it going

Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
sbain
Getting greasy...
[ *  * ]
Old Man just sent me here, looks like I've got a gameplan tomorrow if this is the root of my crazy noises, lack of power, and general shitty performance.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply