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How to do Cam and Crank seals?
Topic Started: Nov 27 2011, 01:00 AM (1,501 Views)
nerys
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Grr

Is there a good thread with pictures describing how to do Cam and Crank seals?

found the dizzy o-ring thread but none in search for cam and crank seals.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

I have: Crank Seal How To and How to Cam Seal. that you can start with.
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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Nerys, you have over 5000 posts and still don't know how to replace a cam seal? What have you been doing with all of your spare time, making nonsensical posts? (Sorry, that's CB's baliwick)

Come on, man.
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nerys
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Grr

hey bad bent need some help.

ok FINALLY got it all apart. the crank pulley bolts were a pain. I kept turning the socket off the bolts fearing I would strip them I skipped it and went to the next bolt. by my 4th bolt I decided to lower the engine for more leverage.

that took half an hour since I had to find a socket extension combo STRONG enough (I twisted 2 extensions actually WARPED the metal shearing them off) finally found a good quality extension and used a giant wrench for leverage and got it off (could not find a 1/2" 14mm or 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to use the breaker bar.

so I goto do the 4th Same damned thing finally I check to see if the socket fits properly and just use my fingers to check for fit thought it was SPINNING till I saw the bolt spin.

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

I never slipped once. it was "Breaking" them free Just perfectly and it FELT like a slip.

they were all hand loose now :-) GRRRRRRRRRRRRR :-) better over careful than over careless so its ok :-)

OK now how in the WORLD do I align the stinking cam. it "JUMPS" from position to position its virtually impossible to get it to "stop" at a desired location. its like it has certain spots it wants to "be in" and it resists moving away and quickly PUSHES into the next spot once you get past halfway.

so how do I partially turn it to light up the timing marks?

last post reply

well in 80,000 + miles since I got the car I have not "had" to change the cam/crank seals till now :-) its also less about how do I do it (its relatively obvious how to do it) its about making sure I don't have to repeat other people's mistakes.

IE why go through the trial and error someone else has already gone through. thats just silly :-)

I would not have know about the lower the engine with the one mount trick if I did not ask :-)
Edited by nerys, Nov 27 2011, 04:09 PM.
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Memphis metro


Turn the cam real slow and it will not jump.
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nerys
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Grr

negative. I can make it not jump at the half way point but that halfway point is "NOT" aligning the marks. as soon as I hit a "critical point" it "jumps" to the next position.

would removing the spark plugs help? maybe its compression pushing it ??
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Memphis metro


No compression with pistons not moving.
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91 ragtop
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are you sure you're using the right mark on the pulley ? You need to have the mark opposite of the dowel pin on the cam pointing up. Put a 17mm box end wrench on the cam bolt and turn slowly. It will stay in the lineup position. You DID get the cam gear on right ? It has to be tightened up with the alignment pin in one of the two slots.

Ken...
Edited by 91 ragtop, Nov 27 2011, 05:01 PM.
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clarkdw


I know what Nerys is talking about. Mine tended to do the same thing jumping before or as it was lined up. What I did was rotate it forward. The cam about 1/8 of a turn or 45 degrees and the crank about 1/4 turn or 90 degrees. Put the belt on, snug up the tensioner a little and rotate it to the correct orientation to check. If off, do it again in the rotated position. I also counted the number of teeth on the belt between the timing marks before I loosened the original, which I know you could not do as it was broken. Mine was 38 teeth on the tight side of the belt between the crank and cam marks. If you make a note of how many teeth on the tight side it doesn't matter where the marks are, it will be correct if you return it to the same count.
Edited by clarkdw, Nov 27 2011, 05:54 PM.
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nerys
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Grr

of course pistons connected to crank not cam. :-)

talk to my mech says align bottom install belt on button use wrench to HOLD in place camshaft and then slide belt on. Gonna try it see what happens.

OK I was on the wrong side. looking at the pictures there are 2 holes in the "cam" sprocket and those holes are shifted RIGHT (there are TWO marks on the cam sprocket)

once I put the two holes to the right side I was able to JUST get it to "stay put"

then I had my brother hold the cam sprocket and belt in place and lift up the tensioner

I then from the bottom aligned the crank markings

but the belt would NOT go on. only half on. too tight. SO what I did was to get it on as best I could make sure the RIGHT side of the belt was tight and straight then both of us holding it so the belt could not jump a tooth I rotated the engine with a wrench on the crank until the belt was all the way on.

I snugged on the crank pulley put the plugs back in (wanted to check them anyway they are perfectly ok BTW after 75-80k no undue wear just a teeny bit of grey white just like it should be so I put them back in. they will be changed at my 100k maintenance run.

started it up perfect runs like a champ.

it was late so I did not bother to put the pump pulley and belt back on figure just wait till tomorrow when all the parts come in and finish it since I will just have to take it apart again anyway.

well now I will have a spare belt :-)

I shot video of all the steps took some key pics will get all the processed add more tommorrow when I do the rest (cam crank seal valve cover and water pump)

sprayed the engine down with degreaser to let soak overnight too.

more to come..
Edited by bogs, Nov 28 2011, 01:17 PM.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

See what clarkdw is posting at the same time. :-/

The cam springs are rotating the cam. One of those links should have said start at TDC of #1 piston and then align the timing marks.

BUT what you want is to align the crank gear (sprocket) timing mark with the mark at 12 o'clock on the block. That stays there.

I put the cam belt on the crank gear and stretch it taught (right side/front of engine) up to the cam gear. Now rotate the cam gear to where the timing mark looks correct and wrap the belt around it.

Maneuver the belt around the tensioner, tighten it a little and check your timing marks. Rotate the crank shaft 2 revolutions and check the timing marks.

Now, repeat as necessary until you are pretty sure you have the marks aligned. If you are unsure you can assemble everything (pulleys/belt) without the timing belt cover and start the engine. You can even leave it that way if you want.

OR now would be a good time to cut the timing belt cover in half just above the timing scale and reassemble it with just the lower half of the cover so you can test drive the car and adjust the belt if necessary.

Hope that helps.
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nerys
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Grr

yeah got it installed worked a treat!! I did not even bother reconnecting alt and water pump just started it up with the crank pulley back on. Perfect. Prrrrrr :-)

put away all the tools will finish tomorrow when those filthy scum sucking *#$& @&#)(@! &%)&*@#@ at UPS let me have my stuff :-(

I am glad I bought another belt and started today as it did take half the day (finding right tools figuring out how to do each step carefully as to not damage anything etc...

now that I have done it once will go much much faster next time.

my timing cover is chewed up. so I am leaving it off all together. I am going to get another one and "mod" it so I can have both a full timing cover AND still be able to remove it and change the belt in a pinch without having to remove the crank pulley. it looks very doable I don't anticipate a problem.
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clarkdw


Good stuff! :congrats Glad you got it all ok. Be careful modding the timing cover, especially if you do any gravel roads. The cover is mainly to keep debris from getting caught in the belt and spitting it off. I had a 73 Pinto 2.3 ohc that lost the timing belt that way. A very heavy snowfall and windstorm :cold blew snow in to my open belt with a warm engine. When it froze again starting the engine with ice in the belt made it skip a few teeth. :banghead

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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Yeah!!!

Wasted time looking for tools, extra belt, going faster next time - you are an experienced timing belt changer. :lol
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nerys
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Grr

I have to start buying non CRAP tools is the problem. OH and stop loaning my damned tools to my brother.

$400 socket sets half the sockets are gone and he has "NO IDEA" where they are.

Brand new wrench sets. Oh left in the junkyard.

man sometimes I Just want to murder him.

then when "I" need my tools have to go scrounging for them through "HIS STUFF"

I should take pictures of that. all my tools have a specific place.

all his tools are "SPLATTERED" together in giant tool bags he can hardly pick up himself. Grrrrrr.
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