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|How to Change Manual Transmission Fluid; So easy that, “. . . my mom or great grandmother could . . . with their good arm tied behind their back."|
|Tweet Topic Started: Dec 1 2011, 03:02 AM (13,025 Views)|
|Geo Glenn||Dec 1 2011, 03:02 AM Post #1|
What's in your engine?
If your speedometer gear housing will not come out with minimal effort, don't force it. Otherwise, you'll end up in the same situation as this guy. There is an "official" transmission filler on the side of the transmission.
Every so often the transmission fluid, or transmission (another time, and another story) need to be changed.
Gather the necessary tools and fluids.
A drain pan.
A 3/8" drive ratchet.
3 quarts of your favorite flavor of transmission fluid. (2 1/2 quarts required)
A 12", 3/8 drive extension.
A 10mm, 6 point socket.
Place the drain pan below the plug in the bottom of the transmission.
Remove the drain plug using the 3/8" drive ratchet.
Quickly grab the camera and take a picture of the transmission fluid as it drains into the pan.
Now that you have the drain plug in your hand, examine what the magnet has caught.
The transmission drain plug is nice and clean, ready to reinstall.
While you're waiting for the transmission fluid to drain, check for leaks.
The 5th gear cover.
The driver's side drive axle seal.
The main case half seal.
The passenger's side axle seal.
The shifter rod seal.
Check the cat.
Once the transmission fluid has finished draining, reinstall the drain plug.
Now, it's time to install the new fluid.
Forget about the fill plug on the side of the transmission. The technical writers were finished writing the manual before production began. They actually had to go back and rework the first 180,000 transmissions to add a fill plug before they were delivered. Believe that? I've got a bridge to sell you . . .
The easiest way that I have found to service a manual transmission with fluid is through the opening for the speedometer drive.
Using a 3/8" drive ratchet, a 12" 3/8" extension, and a 10mm socket, remove one 6mm bolt that retains the speedometer drive housing into the transmission.
There is no need to remove the speedometer cable from the housing. Pull gently on the housing. It will come right out. Do not pull on the cable. If you do, push it back together, and don't tell anyone. It will probably work. Mine did.
Right in the middle of the picture is the hole that the speedometer cable housing goes in. It's also where the transmission fluid goes in. Now, if 1.0smallblock gets these pictures modified with circles and arrows in accordance with the standards established at Alice's Restaurant, I will gladly edit this Topic.
Insert the funnel into the hole in the top of the transmission.
Pour in the transmission fluid. 2 1/2 quarts.
In case you're wondering, this is what the full level looks like. It's easy enough to check, and recommended to do so if you have any leaks. By the way, it's highly recommended to replace the axle seals prior to installation of the new fluid, if they need to be replaced. No leaks? Leave them alone. Trust me. The shifter shaft seal, and the input seal replacement require removal and disassembly of the transmission.
My shifter shaft seal is leaking a little bit. My fluid level was full. I'd say this is an acceptable leak rate.
Reinstall the speedometer drive housing. It will slip right in.
Check to see if the cat is still in the car.
I now yield the Topic to the Members of the Geo Metro Forum.
|captain1.0||Dec 1 2011, 09:06 AM Post #2|
My great grandmother used to change hers. I did not think you were a pennzoil man. You might want to add to the required tools a wrench (depending on what transmission you have).
|clarkdw||Dec 1 2011, 11:33 AM Post #3|
||Great how to GG. Definite sticky.|
|bogs||Dec 1 2011, 12:11 PM Post #4|
Duct tape heals all wounds
|Very nicely detailed|
|Bad Bent||Dec 1 2011, 06:43 PM Post #5|
Facetious Educated Donkey
|I like it! Thanks for the book mark.|
|dayle1960||Dec 1 2011, 07:03 PM Post #6|
Fastest Hampster EVER
I want to know why I need to check the cat while I'm draining the tranny oil??????? Seems a bit un-necessary, unless the cat has some blow-by on the back end.
Nice write up, GG.
|starscream5000||Dec 1 2011, 07:36 PM Post #7|
Got 70 MPG?
|My shifter shaft seal leaks as well. That's a bummer that the entire transmission must be disassembled to service it|
|Scoobs||Dec 1 2011, 08:57 PM Post #8|
|toss the cat, sell it, do whatever, you dont need the cat here in Arkansas they never we're any good for paint jobs.... lmao|
|captain1.0||Dec 1 2011, 08:59 PM Post #9|
Arkansas must not have many chinese restaurants.
|Scoobs||Dec 1 2011, 09:00 PM Post #10|
|actually, theres 3 that i know of in mountain home, wanna talk about a dunkin donuts, now there aint one of those in arkansas....|
|TheKid||Dec 1 2011, 10:34 PM Post #11|
Great 'How To' Geo Glen...
Just a week late for me, but a definite re-do for me this weekend.
ps: the cat-talytic converter aid in emission
|clarkdw||Dec 1 2011, 11:53 PM Post #12|
You will definitely live longer by never entering a Dunkin Donut shop.
|Jittney||Dec 2 2011, 01:11 AM Post #13|
Anchorage 92 XFi
The shift seal can be replaced without cracking the transmission.
See this for more info.
Now that a few days have gone by, I would try it in the car, if a 'bandage' didn't work.
Though I would rig something to hold the back half of the yoke in place as I removed the shaft.
Repositioning the half yoke was tough....even on the bench.
|Way||Dec 3 2011, 04:37 PM Post #14|
You forgot the vinyl gloves to keep the oil off your hands. Now you're going to have to get another manicure..
It being December, it might be a good idea to put the Synchromesh over a heater duct or some such, warm it up and then it will flow a lot faster when it comes time for refilling.
I wonder if you could microwave it for a few seconds? Sounds like a job for Coche Blanco
|tletterm||Dec 31 2011, 06:15 PM Post #15|
|That worked awesome just did it today took about 15 min, great post.|
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