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Why's my timing keep on changing?
Topic Started: Dec 6 2011, 11:25 AM (933 Views)
shaft
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About a month ago I checked my timing and it was at 8 degrees. I noticed this week that the car has been kinda sluggish (especially on the low end) and FE is down a little. So I checked the timing when I got home last night and the timing was at 4 degrees. This is the second time it happened where all of a sudden the timing changed. I have not done any changes to the motor or touched anything that I would affect the timing -- not that I know of anyway.

The bolts holding the distributor were very tight so I don't think they moved by themselves.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thx.
Edited by shaft, Dec 6 2011, 11:26 AM.
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Tofuball
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When you checked the timing, did you remember to jumper the test connector? :)
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shaft
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Tofuball
Dec 6 2011, 11:30 AM
When you checked the timing, did you remember to jumper the test connector? :)
Yes it was jumped. I've always done that.
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Tofuball
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Good. If you've checked that and the RPM was at true idle, then,

Has your crack sprocket wandered, or timing belt skipped a tooth? (woodruff key sheering)
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shaft
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Tofuball
Dec 6 2011, 11:39 AM
Good. If you've checked that and the RPM was at true idle, then,

Has your crack sprocket wandered, or timing belt skipped a tooth? (woodruff key sheering)
Oh great...... sounds scary :smackface

That's all foreign to me so I'm going to need some help sorting this out.

Care to explain how to can check and correct these issues? thx a bunch.
Edited by shaft, Dec 6 2011, 11:48 AM.
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Tofuball
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I hope someone else comes up with a different solution, but basically, check that your cam timing is correct.

Personally, I'd probably just move the timing back to where I wanted it and pretend to ignore it . . .
Edited by Tofuball, Dec 6 2011, 12:03 PM.
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Memphis metro


Maybe you have the dreaded crank keyway worn syndrome. :die
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shaft
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enginedoctorgeo
Dec 6 2011, 12:40 PM
Maybe you have the dreaded crank keyway worn syndrome. :die
So what does this entail? Is this something a novice like myself can fix? Any good posting you can lead me to? I'll do some searching here as well.

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Woodie
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Take out #1 sparkplug and stick something down there that won't cause any damage, like a straw or the plastic barrel of a BIC pen. Turn the engine over (back and forth with a socket wrench on the crankshafts pulley center bolt) until the straw is at its absolute highest point. If your timing marks don't point to zero, then your crank or cam locating pins are wallowed out and varying.
Edited by Woodie, Dec 6 2011, 05:20 PM.
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shaft
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Ok. So if the crank or cam locating pins are wallowed out and varying, would the timing change immediately (after driving the car) after setting it where I want it to be? Or does it take a couple hundred miles before it afftects the timing?

The reason why I asked this is because I put the timing back to 8 degrees last night and I drove the car to work and back home today -- about 32 miles. Checked the timing when I got home and still at 8 degrees.
Edited by shaft, Dec 6 2011, 06:37 PM.
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compjake
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Well, if the crank sprocket is lose it will cause this. http://geometroforum.com/topic/4595529/1/

That's what happened to my car about 2 weeks ago, as long as you got a welder its a pretty easy (temporary) fix.
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shaft
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Woodie
Dec 6 2011, 05:19 PM
Take out #1 sparkplug and stick something down there that won't cause any damage, like a straw or the plastic barrel of a BIC pen. Turn the engine over (back and forth with a socket wrench on the crankshafts pulley center bolt) until the straw is at its absolute highest point. If your timing marks don't point to zero, then your crank or cam locating pins are wallowed out and varying.
Do I need to go through the Timing Belt Replacement process or at least part of it, just to see if timing marks are lined up?
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rmcelwee
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I've fixed wallowed out crank pulleys with Loctite (get the good stuff) on a Miata before. The theory is you get a new key, coat the inside of the pulley with the good Loctite and glue it on (in the correct position). The loctite and crank bolt hold it on and not the key. My repair lasted at least 30K miles (car was sold, not sure if it is still running).

FWIW, this is a standard crank repair on a Miata and there are tons of examples of it on the web. Google it for more info...

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Tofuball
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I'm running the same thing on my metro. Going good so far.
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