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| Need info 1.3L Head Rebuild & Rings replacement | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 13 2011, 11:24 AM (2,303 Views) | |
| scubaman | Dec 13 2011, 11:24 AM Post #1 |
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scubaman
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1. Are there are "HOW TOs" on the 1.3L Cylinder Head rebuild just like that shown for the 1.0L? 2. The same for Bottom end (Piston Rings replacement and bearings) on the 1.3L. My friend want me to help them with their 1997 Geo Metro 1.3L (after having just seen me do my 1.0L) ====================== I just completed a head rebuild (replaced valve seals, cleaned lifters, changed all seals and gaskets, reground the valves as they looked really good)on my 1.0L 1993 Suzuki Swift. Also replaced Piston rings and con rod bearings and crank bearings (I found this more difficult while the crank was in place, Are there any tips out there on making this easier). New timing cover, new belts, new thermostat, new radiator hoses. For some reason the thermostat gasket was slightly too large. Many THANKS to all the information provided by Johnny Mullet & G10HIO. This was the first time I ever tried anything like this. Took me 3 days. Sat (Dec 10) for the tear down, Sunday for the clean up (Carbon everywhere and crap for cleaning tools) and Monday for the re-fitment. Unfortunately tools are hard to find on the island No Napa or such. Did everything with just basic stuff. Used muscle to get the Valves back in.One note: In separating the lifters (write up by G10HIO), i Found it easer to knock them on a piece of wood till the inner bit fell out. Using the Vice grip gave me hell. Also used the following link http://www.scribd.com/doc/47593156/Suzuki-G10-G13-Engine-Manual to verify torque specifications. The car started up beautifully, no smoke, just a bit of lifter noise to be expected(?). Gasket had tiny oil hole, so opened it up a bit. (Original Gasket also had tiny hole.) Of note that the compression is now 150psi (dry) on all 3 cylinders. (before it was 110, 60, 110). Is the 150psi good to live by for the next 100km. Many thanks to the Geo Forum Crew. There is so much more to learn. Regards Chris |
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| bogs | Dec 13 2011, 12:05 PM Post #2 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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As far as I know, there are none specific to the 1.3 for either the head or bottom end, although several have done the rebuild. Dayle is doing one now, and there are threads about people who have done them. Go to google and type in - site:geometroforum.com/ 1.3 head rebuild site:geometroforum.com/ 1.3 rebuild That should maximize your results
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| Coche Blanco | Dec 13 2011, 12:59 PM Post #3 |
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Troll Certified
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![]() 150psi dry is good, it will keep climbing until it is fully broken in. Mine started at 150 and is now at 180 with 8000 miles on the rebuild. |
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| dayle1960 | Dec 13 2011, 02:25 PM Post #4 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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It took me a month to source a bottom end shell. It's been a PITA to just find one. I have never dealt with the four cylinder but I assume it will be comparable to the G10, with an extra piston . I'm a little worried about putting all the bits and pieces back to where the go. It will be a mental workout to remember where certain bolts went. Crance , I am impressed that you did the rebuild with minimal toolage . Sounds a lot like me. Good work on having it start right up. I might have to hit you up for pointers. Is your engine a 8 valve or 16 valve valve? |
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| Coche Blanco | Dec 13 2011, 02:27 PM Post #5 |
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Troll Certified
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97 should be an 8 valve |
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Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

No Napa or such. Did everything with just basic stuff. Used muscle to get the Valves back in.





1:57 PM Jul 11