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| New member with a couple problems! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 2 2012, 11:40 PM (1,188 Views) | |
| Awesome-X | Jan 2 2012, 11:40 PM Post #1 |
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I bought a 93 Metro tonight that passed 204,000 miles after about 13 miles of me driving it its a 1L 5 speed and it has a couple problems. I drove it for probably 30 miles and the temp gauge did not move an inch. There was no heat in the car whatsoever and it's 15 degrees outside so that won't work. I'm thinking the thermostat is probably stuck open but thought someone else might have another suggestion? The second problem is that it has an oil leak. Its coming out on the passenger side of the engine. The alternator and stuff have a decent amount of oil cover on them. The PO told me that it has recently had a head rebuild and it started about a month after the car was finished. Timing cover, maybe?
Edited by Awesome-X, Mar 23 2013, 09:24 PM.
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| myoldman2 | Jan 3 2012, 12:39 AM Post #2 |
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Elite Member
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i think that u may not have thermostat in it the oil leak mite be a crank seal both are not to hard to fix if you need there is lots on this site |
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| Awesome-X | Jan 3 2012, 05:49 AM Post #3 |
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I didn't think they could be too difficult to fix considering the size of the engine lol but I'll definitely look into that thermostat issue, it's way too cold to not have any heat. I'll do a search on the crank seal as well. Thanks! |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jan 3 2012, 07:19 AM Post #4 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Replace the thermostat and be sure to purge the cooling system of air. Remove the timing belt cover and you will find that leak. |
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| Old Man | Jan 3 2012, 11:16 AM Post #5 |
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do crank seal and cam seal at the same time...... |
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| clarkdw | Jan 3 2012, 05:41 PM Post #6 |
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Before you do all the good suggestions everyone has submitted. Do a dry/wet compression test. Many, many, many , did I say many? head rebuilds result in a bottom end rebuild shortly after. Blowing out the crank or cam seal is a good indicator of excessive blowby. compression test Edited by clarkdw, Jan 3 2012, 05:41 PM.
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| MR Bill | Jan 3 2012, 10:07 PM Post #7 |
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Do a search on how to on the crank and cam seal. There are several write up and they are good . Bill |
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| Awesome-X | Jan 3 2012, 11:26 PM Post #8 |
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Alright I'll do that thanks guys! I bought a thermostat and a gasket today but I just can't seem to bring myself to work in 10 degree weather. I'll get it in the garage tomorrow. |
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| Awesome-X | Jan 4 2012, 06:33 PM Post #9 |
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Alright I found my heat problem: ![]() So obviously I fixed that. As for the crank/cam seals I'll have to wait until I get a couple days off to work on them. Thanks everyone! |
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| Awesome-X | Mar 7 2013, 09:24 PM Post #10 |
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Well I ended up rebuilding the engine in this car a couple of months back. It ran so much better than it ever had. Then about 3 weeks later I hit the brakes too hard and broke my frame. I bought a frame brace from 3Tech. I couldn't get the bolt in the frame brace on the rear on the drivers side so I'm taking it to a shop tomorrow. ![]() This is what I was working with. Drivers side: ![]() Passenger side:
Edited by Awesome-X, Mar 7 2013, 09:26 PM.
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| Johnny Mullet | Mar 7 2013, 09:33 PM Post #11 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Holy SHIT..............![]() |
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| Jittney | Mar 7 2013, 09:39 PM Post #12 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Another frame horn fix thread ![]() Let's see what the shop does
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| dwarren | Mar 7 2013, 09:44 PM Post #13 |
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"...it's a 1.0 liter 5 speed and it has a couple of problems". (looks like you found the biggest problem!) Ya'll need to come south and buy a rust free Metro before they're all gone.
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| RONNIEREDLINE | Mar 7 2013, 09:48 PM Post #14 |
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METRO MAD MAN
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first off pull out the tube that comes from the evap canister, the factory installed it into the frame on the drivers side, look and you'll see it, right into the frame at the top of the frame horn., it is pumping sulfuric acid fumes from the gas tank vapors. when the canister charcoal fails and becomes saturated it just pumps it right through into your frame LOVELY huh? what a factory screw up. i had my metal tested and it immediatly showed sulfureric acid i know a metalurgist he's a friend of mine from way back, we did it for research. i didnt tell him where the metal came from until after he gave me the results. second install a new PCV valve, i did and mine stopped leaking. try it before all the work huh? crank case builds up pressure and pushes out the weakest spot, the front crank seal. trying to help ron Edited by RONNIEREDLINE, Mar 7 2013, 09:50 PM.
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| Awesome-X | Mar 7 2013, 10:05 PM Post #15 |
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It's just going to the shop for the bolt. There is a guy on here from Indianapolis that does frame fixes and I'm going to try to get in touch with him and have him do it. It's funny how one side looks almost perfect and the other side is completely gone. But honestly after using a come along to get the frame back into somewhat spec it drives a lot better. I drove it 45 miles with the frame busted up like that.
Edited by Awesome-X, Mar 7 2013, 10:10 PM.
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Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

its a 1L 5 speed and it has a couple problems. I drove it for probably 30 miles and the temp gauge did not move an inch. There was no heat in the car whatsoever and it's 15 degrees outside so that won't work. I'm thinking the thermostat is probably stuck open but thought someone else might have another suggestion?





![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)







and it has a couple of problems". (looks like you
found the biggest problem!)
Ya'll need to come south
and buy a rust free Metro before they're all gone.
7:20 PM Jul 10