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clutch switch vs. ignition switch
Topic Started: Jan 19 2012, 07:36 PM (1,233 Views)
joecryar
Member
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Without searching through the 31 pages of topics I see in this forum(I would and might still later, but I have to get ready for work soon, lol), I have an issue you might be able to help with--

A while back, all of a sudden, it wouldn't start by key. I automatically narrowed it down to 1 of 2 problems. If this were a motorcycle, I could have probably narrowed it down more, but i'm not used to some of the "interesting" ways this vehicle is wired. Anyway, with clutch pushed in, turning the key nothing happens, however, I can see that the dash lights dim just a bit. That kind of tells me that the switch is trying to do something? Soo, I look under the dash(I'm 6'4", by the way, that was fun), and see the "safety" switch attached to the clutch pedal. I have a power probe, so I hooked it up, stuck it in the wiring connector, and hit the button. Started right up.

I could also just still be sleepy while i'm typing this, but would that suggest that the "safety" switch has gone bad, and not the ignition?

Now, the real question -- since until I can pay off some borrowed monies and receive steady pay again, I can't just go looking for parts to throw at it(even at junk yards right now), Can I by-pass that switch and make it start by the key again without having to use my power probe to start it everytime? That's been a real PITA at times, especially when it's 30 degrees outside.

Thanks for any help and opinions/advice.

PS- if it is indeed the ignition switch, that's actually good, since I have to take that apart anyway in the future to replace the multifunction due to the wiper arm breaking off....

Edited by joecryar, Jan 19 2012, 07:38 PM.
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idmetro
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By jumping across the connector you just confirmed that the issue is with the safety switch. You can semi-permanently jumper across it and the car will start (just make sure you are in neutral or you will be moving!!!). Be careful and Good Luck!!!
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crankcase


Try another test just to be extra sure, it's easy anyway.
Pull the small wire that goes to the starter.

See if you get any voltage there when you put the key in the crank position.
You can use test probe or multimeter.
No light or voltage at crank = switch or ignition is likely the problem.
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joecryar
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thanks! I'll double check with that starter test just to be sure(when its not freezing or raining), if that passes, i'll jumper the wires underneath for the safety switch. without diving into it and looking for schematics, i just wanted to be sure that I COULD bypass or jumper before i tried it and shorted something else out....LOL
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joecryar
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Okay, without a meter to test with(can't find it at the moment), that wire I have stuck in the connector where the clutch switch is, I took it out and jumpered it to the other side of the connector. No luck. So, with the fuse panel right there, took that same wire, with the switch on, and touched it to a fuse, which automatically engaged the starter. Opinions? I want to replace whatever needs done, however, even on ebay an ignition switch price leaves a bad taste in my mouth, as does pulling an entire column at a junkyard. But I would like to narrow down either the ignition or clutch switch, still. In the meantime, I'm thinking this -- http://www.ebay.com/itm/350545964205?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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Old Man


Have you given any thought that maybe the clutch switch is out of adjustment and y0u only have to adjust it correctly for all to be OK????
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joecryar
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Actually, no, i haven't. Thank you. thats why i post on places like this one. Does it adjust like that of a stoplight switch(the ones that do, lol)?
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

it's not all that uncommon for either the clutch safety switch or the ignition switch to go tits up. it's especially common if you're one of those people who keep a big wad of keys hung on the key ring with your car key.

the weight of that big wad of keys swings back and forth while you are driving and basically rocks the ignition switch back and forth which wears it out prematurely. after i killed several ignition switches in different cars, i learned to carry only the single key for the ignition lock.

even being that anal, i have had metro ignition switches bite the dust (probably from previous owners' wads of keys.) :D typically, it starts out that you notice the problem when it's cold out and the low temps sort of shrink the contacts in the switch. it gets progressively worse from there until you can hardly get the starter to roll.

my new project red vert has the clutch switch wires cut and twisted together, defeating the safety interlock. like i said, it's not all that uncommon for that to be bad.
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joecryar
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I understand, that's where i'm a bit lost, without proper testing equipment especially. I can put the key in, it's snug fitting, not loose, turns as designed, clicks where it should, lights come on. Turn the key to the start position, you can see the dash lights dim slightly, but no noise at all. The temp solution i had been using was a wire stuck into the connector of the clutch switch, and using a power probe, touching that wire and hitting the power probes button to throw power to it. Starts like a dream that way, just a pain in the ass to keep a ground with the cheap alligator clip on the PP. So you would think clutch switch, and as you said, wires cut and twisted together to bypass. Now, me taking that same wire i already have in one side of the live side of the connector, and sticking it in the other side of the connector, should jumper it just the same, correct? I have no change at all. Yet I can take the other end of that wire and stick it to a lit up fuse, and it starts like a dream. So I really don't know. Until I can narrow it down completely, a clutch switch is cheap enough, just a PIA to get to. The ignition? I've seen from $120-150 in most places. That's pushing the envelope for repair cost on a metro to me. One single part should not cost half of what most pay for the whole car. Another solution mentioned was to hit the junk yard and pull an entire column, just replace the whole thing. That's a bit labor intensive, but I haven't ruled that out yet. So in the meantime, i'll check the adjustment that was mentioned, and otherwise still plan to do what I KNOW will work, adding a push button to the dashboard in one of the free slots available. :)
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clarkdw


If you need it. Good reliable ebay seller. PM me if needed. I will give you an outside ebay email to save a little more.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ignition-switch-same-key-trunk-and-door-locks-1989-94-Suzuki-swift-Geo-Metro-/270936168207?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f150dd70f

Edited by clarkdw, Mar 22 2012, 01:04 AM.
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joecryar
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That listing looks like its about to end shortly.. I'll keep you in mind and put ya in my list of sellers I keep an eye on. I think i'm going to check the adjustment of the clutch switch, if that doesn't do it, FOR NOW, i'm just going to put a push button on the wiring to start it. I had been using the power probe to start it for over a year anyway....money is needed elsewhere on the car right now, so maybe later i'll put a switch in it if needed. Thanks!
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clarkdw


joecryar
Mar 22 2012, 06:38 AM
That listing looks like its about to end shortly.. I'll keep you in mind and put ya in my list of sellers I keep an eye on. I think i'm going to check the adjustment of the clutch switch, if that doesn't do it, FOR NOW, i'm just going to put a push button on the wiring to start it. I had been using the power probe to start it for over a year anyway....money is needed elsewhere on the car right now, so maybe later i'll put a switch in it if needed. Thanks!
I'm not the seller or related in any way. I have just used him previously and he is selling me some stuff now very reasonably outside of ebay. :)
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joecryar
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ahh, i see now. well thanks for pointing me towards it, then! :)
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

my sale thread:

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=46490

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