Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
| Blowing oil, black soot from tailpipe? | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 26 2012, 08:47 AM (3,268 Views) | |
| LukeJ88 | Jan 26 2012, 08:47 AM Post #1 |
![]()
Elite Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I bought my 91 Metro hatch about 6 months ago. Right after I bought it, burned a valve (which I'm seeing is common in these cars) and had the head redone. Now I'm using a lot of oil, it's smoking a little. Especially after it idles a few minutes and then I hit the gas. Also, when I do that, it leaves a black spot in my driveway under the end of my muffler. Do I need a new bottom end? Or is there something I can do to help it? |
![]() |
|
| Memphis metro | Jan 26 2012, 08:52 AM Post #2 |
![]()
|
Just curious if you replaced the valve seals when you did the head work. |
![]() |
|
| idmetro | Jan 26 2012, 08:53 AM Post #3 |
![]()
|
Welcome aboard! Time for a compression test. http://geometroforum.com/topic/2574993/1/ Seem likely your bottom end is not as healthy at the top end - not uncommon, but the compression test dry/wet will tell the story. Good Luck! |
![]() |
|
| LukeJ88 | Jan 26 2012, 08:53 AM Post #4 |
![]()
Elite Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I actually paid someone to machine the head for me, so I would say yes. |
![]() |
|
| Memphis metro | Jan 26 2012, 08:59 AM Post #5 |
![]()
|
Sometimes just doing the headwork and nothing to the block has detrimental effects to the lower end but not always. These engines have chrome rings from the factory and actually the lower ends hold up well. How much oil are you actually adding to the car? Is the check engine light on? One last thing, did (you) put it back together after having the head reworked? There is a little valve that is in the block that sometimes does not get put back in and has been given as a reason for smoking after a rebuild. |
![]() |
|
| LukeJ88 | Jan 26 2012, 09:03 AM Post #6 |
![]()
Elite Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Check engine light is on...throwin the code for a map sensor. I probably put 1-2 qts a week in it, depending on how much I drive. |
![]() |
|
| Memphis metro | Jan 26 2012, 09:04 AM Post #7 |
![]()
|
The reason I asked about the check engine light is, what you are seeing at the tailpipe might be a rich running condition and actually gas instead of oil you are seeing out of the pipe. A map sensor code is a good indication what you are seeing might be gas. You need to fix the map sensor problem. Also heres a picture of the little valve that sometimes does not get put back in the engine block when someone does a headjob that should be put back.
|
![]() |
|
| LukeJ88 | Jan 26 2012, 09:36 AM Post #8 |
![]()
Elite Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Also, I get some popping out the back end when I decel in gear. This is also related to fuel mixture, yes? |
![]() |
|
| Memphis metro | Jan 26 2012, 09:41 AM Post #9 |
![]()
|
Fuel and timing. |
![]() |
|
| Coche Blanco | Jan 26 2012, 09:42 AM Post #10 |
|
Troll Certified
![]()
|
Its cloudy with a 90% chance of bad rings. |
![]() |
|
| Stiffchezze | Feb 4 2012, 09:41 PM Post #11 |
|
Sir Metrologist
![]()
|
Got to check out LukeJ88's Metro today. There are some issues that will need to be addressed. I believe the guy that did his head knew how to work on cars, however his Metro knowledge was lacking. Just a quick look told me that the head bolts had been re-used as well as the timing belt. The distributor had been marked and then bolt right back on in its old position. I'm sure his timing is close, but it had me a little concerned that the timing wasn't checked after the head job. I'm not sure, but I think his distributor was RTV'd in place, suggesting a "fix" for a leaking o-ring. His O2 sensor wire had been clipped and had a bad crimp on it. No idea if the check valve is in place. All I really had time to do was to crimp the O2 sensor wire back. ![]() I followed him for a short bit in traffic, and he has just a little bit smoke most of the time, and a good puff a smoke when ever he down shifted. It did not seem constant. I plan on working with LukeJ88 to see what we can find out. He seems pretty excited about turning some wrenches. We plan on a compression check Saturday. That outta tell us a lot. Oddly enough, my compression gauge is not part of my pull-a-part tool kit. My “spidey senses” are telling me that its either valve seals or a check valve. BTW the codes were for the temp sensor and the O2. I'll have him start a project thread and we'll keep you updated.
|
![]() |
|
| wizard 03 | Feb 4 2012, 11:08 PM Post #12 |
![]()
|
Ok, number one. That is fuel comeing out the exhaust. ESPECIALLY with the poping and crakleing. That poping noise is the raw fuel that made it through the combustion chamber unburnt and hitting the super hot catalytic converter. Needless to say, it is re-explodeing in the exhaust system. Don't worry too much about that, but its good it was happeniong, otherwise I might have offered a rebuild idea too. You need to look at every single electrical connector to make sure they are all plugged in correctly, and that there is nothing wrong with the wireing. If nothing pans out, you need to check fuel preassure and make sure it is within spec. Then you might want to take a look at the fuel injector. If there are big nasty goblets of fuel comeing out at an idle, something is wrong, if it looks allmost like a fine mist then its fine. If these fail to work, then next is to take a look at your distributor, rotor, and spark plugs. It doesn't sound like an ignition problem, but better safe than sorry. If it all looks fine, doesn't have something peculiar or odd about it, then you might start trying to throw parts at it, but I wouldn't be suprised if the answer is right there where someone goofed up on the head.....In fact, taker a look on the passengers side of the car, there is a really big ground back there for multiple sensors that bolts to the intake manifold. It bolts on with a tiny bolt however and is really easy to forget unless you make sure to remember. ![]() As for the oil, that little check valve is highly suspiciouse. So is the type of headgasket used to rebuild. Supposedly they do not offer enough oil return holes as is needed. If not, then maybe the valve cover gasket, do a double check around the head for any obviouse leaks. Same thing for the holes where the camshaft bolts to the timeing sprocket and the hole for the distributor seal. After that, your looking at a bottem end rebuild? |
![]() |
|
| wizard 03 | Feb 4 2012, 11:16 PM Post #13 |
![]()
|
Oh darn, I just seen the last reply. Well, I hope you guys get it solved. Love to hear how the project turns out! |
![]() |
|
| LukeJ88 | Feb 5 2012, 05:56 PM Post #14 |
![]()
Elite Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I wanted to change something, it's not giving me a code for a map sensor. It is actually giving me TWO codes. 1-3 (O2S Circuit) and 1-4 (ECT Circuit) |
![]() |
|
| Old Man | Feb 5 2012, 09:54 PM Post #15 |
![]()
|
That is the indications of bad valve guide seals. with the other (shortcuts) you have described I would guess that this so-called mechanic took the shortcut of not installing new valve guide seals.----Head has to come off anyway to replace the re-used headbolts. |
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| Go to Next Page | |
| « Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic » |


Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.



![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)






3:33 AM Jul 11