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Blowing oil, black soot from tailpipe?
Topic Started: Jan 26 2012, 08:47 AM (3,271 Views)
Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

So LukeJ88, can you get some tools as a Valentine's gift? Next big "gift giving" holiday I can think of. :rofl

If Stiffchezze's crimp of the O2 sensor wire does not remove the 1-3 code then look for loose, dirty or disconnected ground wires going to the back of the intake manifold. The head/manifold may have been removed together and wires disconnected. Usually we don't get two or three codes at one time but you may be an exception. :whistle

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LukeJ88
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I'll try, but lets just say that Valentine's day isn't my 'strongest' holiday. Project thread coming soon.

edit: Just wanted to add, when I hook up the fuse and read the light, it gives me the 1-3 code three times, the 1-4 code 3 times, a single flash, then restarts.
Edited by LukeJ88, Feb 6 2012, 03:53 PM.
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LukeJ88
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This is what I get most every time I start my car.
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wizard 03


Congradulations! Its not oil, but most deffinantly unburnt fuel. :P.....And perhaps carbonbuild up from your catalytic converter, but Im preatty sure its all unburnt fuel.

Ok, you are most deffinantly pushing way too much fuel into the engine, try to fix this IMMEDIATLY! If you do not fix this problem soon, you will wash your bearings out with the raw fuel that is blowing by your pistons which will result into total engine destruction. And even if you replace the engine, the same thing can happen.

Here is my personal trouble shooting guide:

Step 1. Check oil for fuel contamination. It will smell, look, and feel like raw fuel and/or deisel. If oil is contaminated, replace oil with slightly thicker oil immediatly or ASAP untill problem can be fixed. This is not a solution, but will help your engine survive long enough if this is your one and only car to work.

Step 2. Check condition and intregrity of all sensors and connectors. A bad sensor or broken connector could allow the sensor to be reported as faulty, give false information to be calculated by the computer, or cause intermitten problems.

Step 3. Do a fuel volume flow test. Simple, this test requires the knowledge of how much fuel the fuel pump should flow, the tools to remove the inlet side of the throttle body, and a two liter coke bottle. Find the specs, unplug the fuel inletline, and put the fuel inlet line into the coke bottle. Turn the key on, let the fuel pump prim the line, then check your readings.

Step 4. Check fuel regulator. A bad regulator will dump fuel straight into the intake.

Step 5. Check injector. A bad injector will also dump fuel into the intake.

Now if all of that fails, its time to do the worst kind of battle.

Step 6. Start chaseing your problem through the wireing, circuitry, and splices. This is the most difficult way to solve your problem, but may be the only hope. Start with known problems, don't replace anything unless you know it needs to be replaced, and don't live off of just a scan tool, or diagnostic machine. Use a wireing diagram, and common sense to find the problem.


BE VIGILANT! Don't give up. Had a similar problem with a sundance. Damn thing kept throwing black smoke and stunk of raw fuel. Had bigger fish to fry at the time, or so I thought. Let my mother borrow it, and she called up five minutes later, she wanted me to come take a look at it because it was makeing a funny noise.
I have never heard metal scream in my life untill then.
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LukeJ88
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I get a good 40mpg, but I'm using a quart of oil per tank of gas roughly. I don't doubt the rich fuel mixture, but I don't smell raw gas. I use premium gasoline, could that have anything to do with it?

edit: I'm realizing more and more the things my mechanic could've done better, but consider that he had it milled. I know all the valves are new, I dunno about the valve guide seals, BUT, he did send it off, float the money, put it back together, give it right back and let me start driving it, and let me make weekly payments on it till I paid it off. He had to make payroll, etc, so I'm sure that came outta his pocket. And it runs better now than when I bought it (burnt valve in C#1, 20 pounds of compression). He's not a bad guy or a crook. I paid right at what I should've for the job. Now it's the small things he missed/didn't know about/care to look into. I told him to make it run, and he did.
Edited by LukeJ88, Feb 8 2012, 02:46 PM.
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wizard 03


Yeah, sadly this is more of a "buyers beware" thing than anything else. But I have been in those situations before, so I can understand.

Well, if your getting good gas mileage, but are leaking oil, I still think that your getting to much fuel to the engine. But for shits and giggles, let the car sit for for a super extended amount of time, then hop into it, and while trying to start it up, keep an eye out behind the car. When she fires up, smack the gas pedal to rev it up a little. Tell me what color the smoke is {besides the soot}. Is it pure black? Kinda greyish blue? Or pure white?
Im suspiciouse that your valve guide seals are leaking, best way to find out is upon first start up and giveing it a little gas.
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Old Man


best way I have found to check valve guide seals is to find a long hill and go down that hill with your foot off of the gas all the way--when you get to the bottom downshift and put the pedal to the metal. If the valve seals are bad you will get one heck of a cloud of smoke.
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HelterSkelter
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LukeJ88
Jan 26 2012, 09:36 AM
Also, I get some popping out the back end when I decel in gear. This is also related to fuel mixture, yes?


popping as in backfiring? i agree with blue rhino, timing and fuel problems. go and smell your exhaust. waft the exhaust to your face, don't just stick your head down there. does it smell like burning plastic or gasoline? if it smells like gasoline guess what it is? if burning plastic it's oil. you'll be able to tell the difference.
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Woodie
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LukeJ88
Feb 8 2012, 02:29 PM
I get a good 40mpg, but I'm using a quart of oil per tank of gas roughly. I don't doubt the rich fuel mixture, but I don't smell raw gas.

Sounds as if you needed rings, too.

Quote:
 
I use premium gasoline, could that have anything to do with it?


Stop that right away, it's a complete waste and probably harmful.
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wizard 03


Premium is not harmfull to a car. It is just higher octane gas. If you got a pinging problem, slap some of it in there and the pinging will go away.

Hell, in fact it might be better for a car right now as junk gasoline has a winter blend of alcohol in it right now, and people are starting to complain about buying a gas tank full of water due to the alcohol seperateing the water and gasoline from each other and the tankers going dry.
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Bad Bent
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LukeJ88
Feb 8 2012, 02:29 PM
I get a good 40mpg, but I'm using a quart of oil per tank of gas roughly. I don't doubt the rich fuel mixture, but I don't smell raw gas. I use premium gasoline, could that have anything to do with it?
"Premium" is higher Octane and money. Higher Octane is for high compression engines like 12:1 and higher. And ethanol or alcohol blend might help with water in the tank but that would not be your FE problem. Might check out Why use 87 Octane.

Here is a list of ethanol free gas stations in Alabama: http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=AL I use it and get 2-3 more mpg. If I thought I had water in the tank I'd get some HEAT product.

Backfire. In my experience excess fuel burned off by the Cat. might explode but if the valve timing is off it could dump fuel in the exhaust and that would explode. For that to happen your timing belt would be off one tooth. You would have excessive pinging if you were one tooth advanced and 92 octane would help. OR you would have poor low rpm performance and good performance above 4,000 rpm.

Your mechanic may not have set the timing belt properly. It is really common and almost everyone has done it. There are two sets of marks. Click on http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp123/BadBent/Repair%20Pics/timingmarks02.jpg

You may also want to check to make sure your firing order is correct. http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp123/BadBent/Repair%20Pics/firingorder2-1.jpg The order is 1-3-2 but the pictures of it are wrong.

The other option is that your ignition timing is off. For that you need a timing light, short out the ECM advance at the plug and rotate the distributor.

So aside from bad valve timing, ignition timing and un-burnt fuel washing oil off the cylinder walls, have you checked the air cleaner for oil? There shouldn't be any or your PCV valve is history.

Of course this in no way means that there isn't still something wrong with the valves and rings as everyone has mentioned. :-/
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Woodie
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Woodie
Feb 9 2012, 07:15 AM


Stop that right away, it's a complete waste and probably harmful.
That's a poor choice of words. I didn't really mean harmful as in "it's going to break your engine", I meant harmful as in there's more downsides than up. "Premium" gas has stuff added to it that makes it harder to ignite, a by product is that it burns slower. This is the LAST thing our engines need, the ignition timing is already very late on a G10 allowing the exhaust valve to open before the burn is complete, contributing to burned valves and soot build up in the exhaust and EGR. High Test fuel will slow down the burn and exacerbate this situation. You'll get more soot, less power and mileage, and have a greater tendency toward burned valves.
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LukeJ88
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Old Man
Feb 9 2012, 01:21 AM
best way I have found to check valve guide seals is to find a long hill and go down that hill with your foot off of the gas all the way--when you get to the bottom downshift and put the pedal to the metal. If the valve seals are bad you will get one heck of a cloud of smoke.
When I'm going down the hill should I be in a high gear or neutral?
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Old Man


in gear ---- sucks the oil through the valve seals into the combustion chamber---hit the gas, instant smoke screen
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LukeJ88
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Will try this today and report back.
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