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Explain 110V / 220V to me
Topic Started: Jan 27 2012, 08:38 PM (7,303 Views)
rmcelwee
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I'm in the market for a used air compressor and I see a lot of them do 110/220V. In the past I have wired a 110/220V plasma cutter for 220V but didn't really understand how it worked. Anyway, if I buy a compressor that was wired for 110 and change it to 220 does that mean it runs twice as fast? Does it run the same speed but uses half the amps (meaning it saves on electricity or runs cooler or something). I'm confused...
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Memphis metro


I do not really know the answer to your question but I can tell you this, someone gave me a rather large aircompressor. At first I wired it up to run on 110. It ran but was what seemed to me to be sluggish. I then wired it up 220 and there was a drastic differance. I do not recall if it was marked on the motor how to wire it up or what but I know it kicks them right on off running at 220. 220 is really 110 on two of your prongs on your cord.
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Freaky_1
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uhuh
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
110v AC is one leg or output feed from the nearest pole or in-ground transformer.
The typical US home setup is 2 of these legs coming into a meter box (then to breaker or dinofuse box).

These two legs remain separated all the way to the breaker box. IN the box, one leg feeds one half of the panel (every other breaker in a row top to bottom on a leg, aka top one on this leg, next one down on the other and so forth). From there, individual breakers tap into one leg or another to supply 110v to whatever it feeds.

If you have a married breaker (two breakers made as one with a bar linking the switches), this pulls 110 from EACH leg (since the feed is staggered).

Now it's up to the application. In the application of a motor as in your case, it has twice the number of windings pulling on the magnetic pole and is vastly more efficient than running only half it's potential magnetic locations. This usually equates to more total output from a motor, but more importantly is vastly more efficient. For this reason, it's typically more energy efficient to go 220 vs 110.

Sorry for the bloated reply, but just covered the bases.
Former underground power man.
Edited by Freaky_1, Jan 27 2012, 09:04 PM.
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Horn


as for air compressors. if you spend some real money get one with a belt. They are quiet.

as for 220v vs 110v. You don't want to run a 110 motor using a 220v plug in. you will fry the motor. (thats what i've always been told.)

What size compressor are you looking for? if you are looking for a smaller one I would say stay with 110v just because its easier to find plugs, also if you have to take it to a friends house it makes it easier.
Now if you want a big one that's a different story.
Edited by Horn, Jan 27 2012, 09:40 PM.
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Old Man


110V = one three cylinder engine driving both wheels on the rear end.
220V = two three cylinder engines, each driving one of the wheels
on the rear end.

wont go no faster, but it will pull a lot better.
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Old Man


If you are buying an air compressor be sure and investigate the differences between a "single stage" and a "two stage" air compressor.
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crankcase


220 will use less current, and can thus use smaller gauge wires. There is less chance of voltage drop due to current restriction as happens with some 110 set ups, such as using a too long extension cord made from too light gauge wire.

RPMs will be the same reardless of voltage, but the voltage has to be set for one or the other. If the voltage drops too much, like form excess extension cords, the device will probably get damaged and get hot hot hot in the process. For instance if your compressor is set for 110 volts and only 80 gets there, that's bad news.

Higher voltage does save on power too. Power = (I^2)R = (current)X(current)X(resistance). Less current = less power. Many countries run higher voltage for this reason. Higher voltage saves power.

The biggest normal 110 volt plug is rated for 15 amps. In theory, a 14 gauge should be able to go 100 feet and produce 15 amps if only one device is run on it. I would do 12 gauge and many would rather use 10 gauge for 100 feet. I've got a 15 amp compressor and use a 12 gauge line for a 50 foot run. if if I need to reach out far, I just use use air line. It's cheaper than wire anyway.

I have to add that I bought my first "good" airline a couple of weeks back. I had been using one of the blue Harbor Freight PVC :shit lines.
I cannot describe the luxury of the new hose comparied to the old one. I just got a new old compressor a couple of weeks ago. It is a Craftsman 33 gal, 5HP, 110 Volt (don't know how they figure 5 hp, seems like way to much hp for 110 Volts).

I got it for $80. :D I should be able to run that new fantasy impact wrench since it is supposed to do 5 CFM at 90 PSI.
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crankcase


By the way, what do you want to use it for?

The loudness issue is one to consider. They come in loud and louder.
Oilless are basically maintenance free, but oiled systems last longer.
The CFM rating gives you an idea of how what kind of devices you can use
without constantly having to wait for the pressure to build.

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rmcelwee
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crankcase
Jan 27 2012, 10:20 PM

I have to add that I bought my first "good" airline a couple of weeks back. I had been using one of the blue Harbor Freight PVC :shit lines.
I cannot describe the luxury of the new hose comparied to the old one. I just got a new old compressor a couple of weeks ago. It is a Craftsman 33 gal, 5HP, 110 Volt (don't know how they figure 5 hp, seems like way to much hp for 110 Volts).

I got it for $80. :D I should be able to run that new fantasy impact wrench since it is supposed to do 5 CFM at 90 PSI.
I only have HF blue lines. What is special about good ones (will probably never buy any but I am interested). We have good lines at work and they are more flexible but other than that??? Maybe larger ID = more air flow???

As far as all the other info, questions, etc from you guys:

I currently have a nice (but loud) oil less 5 HP compressor with a 25 gallon tank. It is 220V and I use it for all kinds of stuff. I will get another compressor because I cannot stand the noise and I run out of air when using sanders and other high output tools. Again, my compressor is nice and will run most things but I do have to stop from time to time to recharge the air. I also dropped it one time and broke the pressure switch ($60 to replace). So, if I stop sanding or whatever for a while I have to run over to the compressor and turn it off unless I want to blow the relief valve. Very irritating. I could spend the $60 to fix it but I figure this is throwing good money after bad (plus I just want a new toy).


So, next question. What is 3-phase? Is that 440?
Also, I see people talking about 110/220 as well as 120/240. What gives???
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AlexK
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[ *  *  *  * ]
3 phase uses 3 legs of 110 (or higher) but your house probably isn't wired for that. Most houses only have 2 legs brought in so 220 single phase is the most you'll get at home.

I like a 110V compressor because it can be used anywhere.

Most people use 110/120 interchangeably. There may be a technical difference in the windings of the power pole transformer but for our purposes they are the same.
Edited by AlexK, Jan 28 2012, 02:02 AM.
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Woodie
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"these go to eleven"
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Memphis metro


Here are my two air compressors. Both given to me last year after the big flood we had. I drained all the flood water out of them and changed the oil and cleaned them up and wired the one on the right up to run on 220. If in need of a large volume of air, its the one to use. I plumbed them together so I could use the red one for larger volume also at 110 but since have unplumbed them.

Posted Image
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crankcase


Quote:
 
We have good lines at work and they are more flexible but other than that???
It's totally the flexibility thing for me. I have just gotten tired of fighting them, but it's only a problem when I get them out or put them up. Being PVC, they also take on the shape they are stored in. My two blues also have leaky tips unless you point them the right way.

Quote:
 
3 phase uses 3 legs of 110 (or higher) but your house probably isn't wired for that. Most houses only have 2 legs brought in so 220 single phase is the most you'll get at home.

I like a 110V compressor because it can be used anywhere. Most people use 110/120 interchangeably.

:gp

There are some other cool things about 3 phase, among them the possibility of ac motor speed control, duty cycle considerations, and compact motor sizes.
Edited by crankcase, Jan 28 2012, 02:41 PM.
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clarkdw


I worked in the compressor industry servicing large industrial compressors for 16 yrs so I think that my input might be worthwhile.

Look at the pic that blue rhino posted. The Speedaire compressor on the right is one of the best available in the home hobbiest market. That particular pump is a two cylinder cast iron oil lubed single stage. It is very reliable when kept at or under 125psi. Change the oil yearly and it will last a long, long time. Valves are easy to change if required and spare parts are readily available and will be for the forseeable future. It is VERY quiet. I leave mineturned on in my attached garage all the time. It can start at any time of night and I don't hear it in the house.

The pump is found on many, many brands names of compressors. The hp rating may be anything from 2-5 hp but the truth is that most are in the 2-3 hp range no matter what the label says. Campbell-Hausfield and Speedaire are just two but there are lots more. The same pump is used on horizontal and vertical tanks.The larger the better within your budget. That being said, if you are using a tool that uses more air than the pump will make the size of tank is irrelevent . It will only help for a very short period of time till the tank capacity is depleted.

Most brands of this type have motors compatible with 110/220 or 120/240 (There is no difference in the two just regional differences in labeling)
Definitely use the 220v if you can. There is a big difference in reliability. Mine will trip a 15amp 110v breaker in cool weather but runs great anytime of year on 220v.

If you have a choice, find one that has a v-belt as opposed to a grooved flat belt. More easily available. I also speeded up my pump with a larger motor pulley to the point that it draws maximum motor amps just as it turns off at 100psi. I do not run it higher than that because most air tools are designed for that pressure. More pressure does not mean more air available. From the factory they are set at 125psi and will draw maximum amps at that pressure. Speeding up the pump does give you more air but at the expense of setting the pressure lower to preserve reliability.

The home market compressor industry is full of exagerated claims and outright lies. A good industrial piston compressor will make approximately 4 cubic feet per minute of air at 100psi for each hp. Check out the claims of the home units and you will quickly see that claims of 5hp are much exagerated. A true 5hp compressor will not run on 110v power supply. No way, no how.
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Scoobs
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:D

theres no right or wrong air compressors, the main thing is its purpose, the best ones imo is the piston type, they are more reliable, and quieter, you can change the gearing on them to pump faster, but not too fast. and theres the cheapo kind that has the small chambers, and are very loud and obnoxious, images below show the difference since im no good at explaining


The good ones.
Posted Image

Not so good.
Posted Image
Edited by Scoobs, Jan 28 2012, 11:03 PM.
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