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Explain 110V / 220V to me
Topic Started: Jan 27 2012, 08:38 PM (7,302 Views)
MonTex
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Santa Clarita, CA
[ *  * ]
uses half the amps.
Use 200VAC if possible.

See the 'motor circuit' section of the latest version of the National Electrical Code (NEC) book.
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rmcelwee
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clarkdw
Jan 28 2012, 08:59 PM
I worked in the compressor industry servicing large industrial compressors for 16 yrs so I think that my input might be worthwhile.

Thanks for the insight!
Edited by rmcelwee, Jan 29 2012, 07:21 PM.
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

I have a compressor very similar to blue rhino's Speedaire, but with no decal. Kellogg compressor though. When I first got it, it was wired for 220v. It worked really well, but I had to move it out to my barn that only had 110v. I rewired it and was good to go, but I could tell it had trouble starting and would trip the breaker from time to time. As I moved around over the years, it was nice that I could rewire it to what was available, but it certainly prefers 220v. It is currently running on 110v because I got to find a min. to run a 220v line to it. Oh well, one day. :shake

I don't trust oil-less compressors. I know they're designed for it, but everything is better with lube! :D If you think about it, a G10 *could* run with no oil, but for how long? :oshit

As for your pressure switch, $60 is too much. I had to replace mine a couple of years ago. I used a Pressure switch from Home Depot for a well pump. It is located in the sprinkler section. Cost $20. I think they might even have some for a little less.
Parts20 Model# TC2151
Here is a link--->Pressure switch

It says:
Quote:
 
Turns on at 30 psi and off at 50 psi
Adjustable up to 40/60 psi or down to 20/40 psi

But I can assure you, it can be set at any pressures. I have mine set to around 75 on and 95 off. Hope it helps! :thumb
Edited by Stiffchezze, Jan 29 2012, 08:42 PM.
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clarkdw


Stiffchezze
Jan 29 2012, 08:41 PM
I have a compressor very similar to blue rhino's Speedaire, but with no decal. Kellogg compressor though. When I first got it, it was wired for 220v. It worked really well, but I had to move it out to my barn that only had 110v. I rewired it and was good to go, but I could tell it had trouble starting and would trip the breaker from time to time. As I moved around over the years, it was nice that I could rewire it to what was available, but it certainly prefers 220v. It is currently running on 110v because I got to find a min. to run a 220v line to it. Oh well, one day. :shake

I don't trust oil-less compressors. I know they're designed for it, but everything is better with lube! :D If you think about it, a G10 *could* run with no oil, but for how long? :oshit

As for your pressure switch, $60 is too much. I had to replace mine a couple of years ago. I used a Pressure switch from Home Depot for a well pump. It is located in the
Kellogg is a great compressor. Built in my home town of London Ontario by a now defunct company. Very reliable and efficient. They were really popular in auto repair and glass shops. They are very quiet and slow spinning. Only problem with them is that parts are hard to come by now and for quite a number of yrs Kellogg produced them with leftover parts. You never know exactly what version of piston or connecting rod they may contain. Quality control on replacement parts was/is non-existent.

If yours is in reasonable shape take very good care of it oil change wise and it will last your lifetime.

Most oil-less compressors are throwaways. Most direct coupled compressors even if they are oil lubed are throwaways. The company I worked for refused to rebuild direct coupled compressors because the results were almost inevitably less than pleasing. The ones to particularly avoid are what are known as wobble piston. They have a usually aluminum barrel sleeve with a rod/piston assembly with a teflon seal. The rod and piston are one piece so the thin piston rocks back and forth as the rod goes up and down. The teflon seal is flexible enough to provide a seal, at least for awhile. They are noisy, cheap and popular with finish carpenters for nailers.

Yeah. $60 is double what you should pay for a pressure switch. E-bay is king there. Only thing you need to be aware of is if the compressor needs a bleed valve on the pressure switch or has a mechanical one mounted right on the pump. The bleed valve vents off the pressure from the pump when it stops so that it does not try to start back up under full load as that will definitely either blow the breaker or cook the motor.
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3tech
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^^I don't know who this guy is, but he seems to know everything^^

Those cheap oilless compressors are definitely the bottom of the barrel, but that doesn't mean that they're useless. If all you're going to do is hobby stuff, they can often do the job.

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clarkdw


3tech
Jan 30 2012, 10:16 AM
^^I don't know who this guy is, but he seems to know everything^^

Those cheap oilless compressors are definitely the bottom of the barrel, but that doesn't mean that they're useless. If all you're going to do is hobby stuff, they can often do the job.

You are right. Not useless, just throwaway.
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rmcelwee
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Now I am even more confused. I found what might be a really nice compressor but it says it is wired for 225V :

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/2833820742.html
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MR Bill
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still just a 220
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clarkdw


rmcelwee
Feb 5 2012, 02:10 AM
Now I am even more confused. I found what might be a really nice compressor but it says it is wired for 225V :

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/2833820742.html
That is a real bargain if:

1 Pump does not have a bad rod. Hard to find unless it is running. It would knock when started from zero pressure but not when restarted after tank is pressurized.

2 Tank is not rotten. Use a hammer or steel wrench, etc. and tap the tank at the bottom where the water collects. It should "ring" like it does when you hit the side. If it has a dull thunk then the tank is rotten at the bottom.

Make sure the motor is 1 phase, not three phase. It will be indicated on the motor id plate.
Edited by clarkdw, Feb 5 2012, 08:31 AM.
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clarkdw


To expand a little more. That compressor is a "true" 5hp compressor. It will make enough air to almost anything you will ever want. I see from the pic that the motor has capacitors mounted in the box on top so that means that it is a single phase and will work with your home 220 power. It also has a motor contactor box mounted to it or on the wall? That is a fairly expensive but necessary addition to the real 5hp compressors. If the contactor is not used and the motor is run through the pressure switch it will burn out the contacts in the pressure switch very quickly.

This will NOT run off 110 volts. It will require a dedicated 20 amp 220volt circuit.

Parts are readily available for those pumps. It is a two stage pump so is very efficient and is equipped with a built-in inter-stage cooler to help with efficiency. It can safely be run up to fairly high pressures if needed.

In Canada that is a $1000-$1300 unit. If it was me, I would jump on it.
Edited by clarkdw, Feb 5 2012, 08:49 AM.
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rmcelwee
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How noisy is that saylor beall going to be?
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clarkdw


rmcelwee
Feb 5 2012, 11:08 AM
How noisy is that saylor beall going to be?
Not nearly as loud as a direct drive oil-less but louder than the style blue rhino posted the pic of. You can work in the shop with it running without needing earplugs.
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