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Overcooling? Bad Thermostat, Water Pump?
Topic Started: Feb 6 2012, 01:16 PM (1,777 Views)
armygrunt23
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The car is a 92 1.0 auto with 91k miles.

I have noticed recently that I have heard a bit of belt squeal when starting my car up on a really cold or wet day. This has been happening for about 2 weeks. A couple days ago I noticed that the temp gauge would not go over "C" for short trips and today it took about 30 minutes of driving and idling for the car to reach normal operating temps. It is 45 degrees today, fyi. Also I never heard the fan kick on once while it was at temperature while it was idling.

I tried squeezing the top hose to see if I felt a "surge" to indicate that the pump was functioning correctly, I am not exactly sure what a "surge" would feel like but I dont believe I felt anything.

Could the belt just be bad or loose? I read in my chilton's manual how to measure the deflection but there are no specs as to what is the proper range of the deflection the belt should have.

I really hate to dump money into this thing but I want to get it fixed and I am fully capable of doing the repairs myself, if I know what to replace.

Thanks in advance for the help guys!!
Edited by armygrunt23, Feb 6 2012, 01:35 PM.
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iamgeo
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Big League

Tighten the belt. That will stop the squealing.
Since it is very cold outside it will take much longer for the car to reach operating temperature.
Depending on the outside temp. I can drive almost all the way to work, 27 miles, before the water temp. even reaches 195 degrees, That's when my thermostat opens.
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99metro
putt-putt

Mine is at operating temp in about 4 miles (sometimes 3) at about 40 degrees outside temp, and driving 35 to 40 MPH. I watch the actual temp with my Scangauge. If it takes 30 minutes to reach temperature I would replace the thermostat (they are super cheap) and also check the radiator fluid. If the radiator fluid is too rich, it won't heat/cool correctly. The thermostat might be stuck. I have had one thermostat stick open 100% of the time (even while holding it in my hand), and another wouldn't seat all the way. Very very low radiator fluid level could cause a false low temp reading.

The belt squeal... just tighten the be-jesus out of it, but not so much that something is going to break. I take a piece of wood, or medium pry bar between the alternator and engine block and lean into it real good while tightening the alternator bolt. I have no idea the deflection specs.
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armygrunt23
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I noticed a few days ago when the issue started that the coolant level was low. I added some but apparently there was still air in the system. I added some correctly today and made sure to get the air out of the system and everything seems to be back to normal. I will tighten up that belt tomorrow once I get back from class and hopefully my little hooptie will keep running strong.
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ascensions
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Je conduis une petite voiture.

This could totally be a case of me seeing things through my recent repair but, I'd definitely continue to check for leaks. In my case I had to run my finger under the crack of the thermostat water-housing to detect moisture. Ultimately I had a leaking factory seal, which had to be replaced. It persisted as I replaced the seals because none of them were the correct thickness.

Just my two cents.

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HelterSkelter
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armygrunt23
Feb 6 2012, 01:16 PM
The car is a 92 1.0 auto with 91k miles.

I have noticed recently that I have heard a bit of belt squeal when starting my car up on a really cold or wet day. This has been happening for about 2 weeks. A couple days ago I noticed that the temp gauge would not go over "C" for short trips and today it took about 30 minutes of driving and idling for the car to reach normal operating temps. It is 45 degrees today, fyi. Also I never heard the fan kick on once while it was at temperature while it was idling.

I tried squeezing the top hose to see if I felt a "surge" to indicate that the pump was functioning correctly, I am not exactly sure what a "surge" would feel like but I dont believe I felt anything.

Could the belt just be bad or loose? I read in my chilton's manual how to measure the deflection but there are no specs as to what is the proper range of the deflection the belt should have.

I really hate to dump money into this thing but I want to get it fixed and I am fully capable of doing the repairs myself, if I know what to replace.

Thanks in advance for the help guys!!



your alternator belt is too loose. tighten it up and the squeal will go away. don't listen to the manuals either, they will tell you a certain amount of deflection is a MUST, but you just gotta tighten it til it don't squeak no mo'.

your car will take a good long time to heat up in the winter, mine takes about 3-4 miles before it get's to operating temp. if you run the heater before it gets warm it may never reach operating temps. if that's what you're doing, then that's why it's taking 30 minutes to warm up.

also to tell the difference between a surge and nothing, feel the hose when the car is off and cool and then feel the car when the car is at normal operating temps and the radiator fan has kicked in, besides the temperature difference there should be a noticeable pressure difference, and when you let off on the pressure a little bit you should feel water rushing through, like when you pinch a garden hose.

also, if i'm not mistaken, the geo's water pump has weep holes. these are little holes built into the water pump that let coolant out when the water pump fails, normally when the bearings get crappy and the internal workings of the pump cease to be water tight. if you see discoloration like dried coolant on or near the water pump, or in my case flung in every direction in the plane of the water pump pulley, you may have an open weep hole and a ruined water pump. normally unless the weep holes are leaking the water pump is functional as the holes will open if pretty much anything goes bad in the water pump.
Edited by HelterSkelter, Feb 6 2012, 10:36 PM.
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armygrunt23
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If it would ever warm up I would like to get this thing up on some stands and check it out.
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99metro
putt-putt

Usually in February we get -20 and -30 degree mornings. Next time that happens, I will note how long it takes to warm up. I still think 30 minutes is still way too long even with the heater on.

I do believe you can remove the thermostat without losing too much fluid. I'm banging my head trying to remember that for sure. I don't recall cursing during that check a few months ago, so "maybe" I don't have Alzheimers. It would be pretty easy to look at it and see if the thing is stuck open, or isn't fully seated. If the water pump was faulty, I'd think that thing would overheat in no time.

Don't forget that elusive frickin' radiator cap. Something as simple as that cap not seating can really mess with your head.
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