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| Super oil leak.; Unknown cause | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 12 2012, 02:16 PM (3,537 Views) | |
| Spidy | Feb 12 2012, 02:16 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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I've got a pretty serious oil leak--more of a constant stream than a drip. I was told that it was the oil pressure unit, so I replaced it, but no change with the leak. I replaced the valve cover gasket as well, and again, no change. The oil appears to be coming directing from the seam on the oil pan, but I was told that that couldn't be the leak. When I drive forward, the oil gets on the fan belt and sprays all over the hood. I'm not sure where it could be leaking from. |
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| Scoobs | Feb 12 2012, 02:23 PM Post #2 |
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:D
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oil pump gasket maybe, but more than likely your oil pan. |
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| iamgeo | Feb 12 2012, 02:25 PM Post #3 |
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Big League
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Check behind the timing belt cover. There are two seals there that can leak rather badly. The Crank Seal and the Cam Seal. |
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| Good bye | Feb 12 2012, 08:11 PM Post #4 |
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I had a cam seal fall out and the oil ran out in a stream. It ran off the front edge of the head and straight down the front of the engine at the belt end. Your leak may be that simple. Pull the timing belt cover and take a look. |
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| Old Man | Feb 12 2012, 08:16 PM Post #5 |
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when you purchase a new cam and crank seal get a PCV valve at the same time |
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| Bad Bent | Feb 12 2012, 10:39 PM Post #6 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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SMine did the same thing. Looked like the oil pan but oil flows down hill unless under pressure. The PCV valve can clog (oil in the air cleaner) and the hose attaching it clogs, the air cleaner and valve cover will clog causing pressure in the valve cover pushing out the cam seal. The cam seal and crank seal are the same size. If you discover that it is leaking behind the timing belt cover then let us know and we can give you more direction - if you need it.
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| Spidy | Feb 23 2012, 02:45 PM Post #7 |
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Thanks, Bad Bent. I think you're right on the money. When I got the car, I noticed the hose running into the PCV valve was disconnected. I stuck it back on and gave myself a big pat on the back. After that, the leak started. I'm guessing now that the previous owners were actually so lazy that they just pulled it out instead of replacing the clogged valve. I'm sure that my valve got clogged and pushed the seal out. I just wish I tried this forum sooner! I replaced the oil sending unit (which was brand-new from the previous owner) and the valve cover gasket for no reason.
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| Bad Bent | Feb 23 2012, 09:57 PM Post #8 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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You are welcome. And you should give yourself a pat on the back! New parts and experience are priceless. So depending on how flexible your fingers are and how far you want to take this... 2 years ago I simply undid the timing belt cover bolts and pulled the timing cover back as far as I could. I saw the seal resting on the camshaft. I merely cleaned it off and any excess oil then pressed in back in place - very gently. It remained in place until I changed the cam for the 3Tech 218/350 cam a year later, IIRC. Now, with other members advice, I'd find a way to put a thin layer of RTV around the cleaned off seal and gently push it back in place without removing the cam gear. New PCV valve of course. Removing the valve cover may make it easier. I have since cut my timing cover in half so I could remove the top half and tap the seal in place through the cam gear holes, with a blunt rod. Pic of cover.Otherwise it's remove the Alt. belt, pulleys, timing belt cover/belt, valve cover, and cam gear to install a new seal.
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| Richard123vmt | Feb 23 2012, 11:58 PM Post #9 |
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I had this problem--oil leak at pan seam and getting on belts. This is difficult because there is the oil pump and crankshaft seal in the same area. I finally resorted to UV leak detector. This costs $7.00 per bottle/dose. I was able to get a UV flashlight online for less than $3 including shipping. I imagine if you bought a UV kit it would cost $50 or more. Anyway it works fine and I found it was the oil pan seam--even though I had already done this twice--the second time with Right Stuff. Important to look for is bending of the pan at the belt end since that is where prying is done to remove the pan. If you put it on a flat surface a few hammer blows with get it straight. It is important to leave the bolts loose until the RV sets up overnight, then tighten to spec. I also found that the two studs at the same end of the pan, there to aid in installing the pan, tend to leak. If you have extra valve cover seals to put under the nuts it will stop it. It is also possible for a transmission leak to run out along the driveshafts and end up on the belts. All this mess probably caused the early demise of my alternator too. |
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I have since cut my timing cover in half so I could remove the top half and tap the seal in place through the cam gear holes, with a blunt rod.
3:32 AM Jul 11