Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
1992 geo metro clutch
Topic Started: Feb 15 2012, 10:52 PM (3,346 Views)
joseph1967
New Member
[ *  * ]
would like to get some peoples opinion on whether or not i should replace my clutch on my 1992 geo metro it doesnt slip or anything and shifts into all gears fine besides 2nd when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd it doesnt want to i believe its a bad syncro anyways the clutch pedal is stiff to push down and after driving other geo's mine seems way stiffer could this be a sign that its going out?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1DCGUY
Member Avatar
Don't be a "Richard"

Try adding a little lube to the clutch cable, or just buy a new one.
They cost like $12 at your local parts store.
If the lube doesn't work, the cable may be frayed inside the cable housing, and you will need to purchase a new one.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
t3ragtop
Member Avatar
Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

it's probably more an indication that your clutch cable needs lube or that the clutch lever angle is too steep.

the 3rd to 2nd downshift balkiness is typical. i've gotten that problem to all but disappear on a number of suzuki transmissions by draining, flushing, and refilling the gear box with syncromesh transmission oil. the boxes themselves are abused by people who are less than proficient driving a manual and constantly shift gears too fast. a slight pause between gears, smooth engagement of the clutch, and precisely matching road speed with engine revs makes a world of difference in making the transmissions last.

another hint, when you make the transition from 3rd to 2nd, gate the shifter slightly towards first gear (without actually engaging first gear) before pulling the stick back into 2nd. that helps to regulate syncro speeds so that the box doesn't crunch into 2nd. also, make your 1st to 2nd gear changes slower, again pausing slightly as the stick gates into neutral. most guys just jerk the shifter back into 2nd and that pisses the gears off. after doing that several thousand times it jacks the syncros and gear teeth.

definitely drain, flush, and refill the gear box with syncromesh. auto zone carries the penzoil branded syncromesh for around $7 a quart. get 3 (you'll have most of the 3rd bottle left.) sometimes i use 2 bottles and make up the fraction with marvel mystery oil. that along with a modification of your gear changing habits can make that transmission last another few years.

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
joseph1967
New Member
[ *  * ]
another thing is the nut on the rod which is you adjust is about half way or more adjusted
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
joseph1967
New Member
[ *  * ]
yeah ive been having to do exactly what you said t3ragtop and i have syncromesh in there hoped it would help but didnt well im also looking at doing a clutch now sense it looks like i dont have anymore rod left the nut is as far as it can go although no slipping yet im sure soon enough it will be
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Horn


If the synchro issue bothers you, then i would try to find a tranny while u replace the clutch. Even with a new clutch it will be harder to downshift. Also check your cv shafts while u have it apart.

Probly cheapest place for clutch will be ebay.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
t3ragtop
Member Avatar
Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

the cable attaches to an arm on top of the transmission case. remove the pinch bolt and lift the arm up and off the splined shaft. rotate the arm forward by a couple of splines and push it back down onto the shaft. replace the pinch bolt and re-adjust the clutch cable so that the pedal starts to engage the clutch about an inch off the floor.

that will get you some extra life out of the clutch provided it isn't slipping now.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
91 ragtop
Member Avatar


I've had a couple that needed adjusting more than I thought the should have. Then the clutch started making a popping sound when I pushed in on it. Next thing the cable breaks and I saw what all the popping was. Everytime a strand would break it would make the poping noise. I would put on a new cable.

Ken.....
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
joseph1967
New Member
[ *  * ]
well i pulled my trans out and replaced the rear main seal,flywheel,and the rest that came in my sachs clutch set heres my question i have today when installing my new trans i picked it up "STRENGTH" being young and a being a professional tree climber helps :) but as i was mating the trans to motor i notice it slid on all but about an 1/8 of an inch i was afraid to use the bolts and crank on it fear of damgeing the tranny shaft no matter how much i wiggled it and lifted it the trans wouldnt get any closer now i did a clutch on my 94 f-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke and had to do the same the tranny only gets so close and then had to bolt it in the rest of the way now my question to all you savy geo techs am i good to go? or did i F*** something up im worried but as i was tightening the bolts there was no serious tension i just wanna make sure everything is ok when you guys did your clutch did the trans slide all the way to the engine or did you encounter the same probs?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


Clutch disk isn't centered properly, therefore, the input shaft doesn't want to go into the pilot bearing.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
joseph1967
New Member
[ *  * ]
I don't think that's the case woodie I had the trans on and off several times and used a pilot tool and everything was lined up didn't move any
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Old Man


clutch disc flipped???
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
91 ragtop
Member Avatar


You cannot put the clutch disc in backwards. The spring pack would be rubbing against the flywheel and the bolts would have to be 1/2'' longer to even get them started.b My guess is that you let the throwout bearing slip forward and its not sliding back on the housing like it should.


Ken.....
Edited by 91 ragtop, Feb 19 2012, 11:36 AM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
joseph1967
New Member
[ *  * ]
No throw out bearing is right where it's gotta be I made sure of that and with the transmission all bolted in I pressed the clutch and it's working fine I had to pry the transmission to get it off so it was right coming off also And yeah it's not my first clutch job lol clutch and everything is in right it slid on and there was a little gap an sucked in once I bolted it in and as I was bolting it on it fel very easy as it slid on
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
joseph1967
New Member
[ *  * ]
Update got everything back together and trans is shifting and drives great no noises only question is i put a little extra penzoil synchromesh in and the screwed the cap in should be ok right? Figured a little extra would be good for any small leak "if any exist" and what not so put 3 quarts in but a fair amount came out before I was able to screw the plug in
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply