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| 17mm Crank bolt revmoval; It keeps spinning | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 23 2012, 05:28 PM (2,917 Views) | |
| Spidy | Feb 23 2012, 05:28 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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I cannot get the center bolt out of my crank sprocket. I had no trouble removing the 5 little ones around it, but that was only because I could put a 17mm open-end on the center one to keep it from spinning. Now that everything is off and I just have the one big bolt left, I can't find a way to stop it from spinning to even begin to get it off. I've looked for posts to help, but they don't really have an answer to keep it from spinning. |
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| snowfish | Feb 23 2012, 05:48 PM Post #2 |
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Basic GearHead
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Welcome another Minnesotian! Put it in 5th gear, have someone step on the brake, and use a breaker bar. Should work fine. Do the same, when torquing, upon install. |
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| greggholmes | Feb 23 2012, 07:55 PM Post #3 |
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another trick, remove the oil pan and stick a piece of wood between the crank and block to stop it from spinning. (use at your own risk) |
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| Memphis metro | Feb 23 2012, 08:58 PM Post #4 |
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There is a hole under the car in the trans bellhousing for the purpose of inserting a punch, hard screwdriver or other object for someone to hold the flywheel while you remove the crank pulley bolt. Note that bolt is pretty tight and you should use a extended handle breaker bar with a six point socket to remove it. |
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| Alpine | Feb 23 2012, 09:57 PM Post #5 |
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1020cc G10 GOML
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i remember someone telling me to crank the motor (witch i think i did and it scared the f**k outa me) dont go killing yourself
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| 00Metro | Feb 23 2012, 11:02 PM Post #6 |
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That was to remove the axle nut
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| Murf 59 | Feb 23 2012, 11:05 PM Post #7 |
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I use heat. Like a BurnzOmatic with Mapp gas. It has loctite on it from the factory. Make sure to use just a bit when you go back with it and the 5, 10mm ones. Welcome to the forum |
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| Old Man | Feb 23 2012, 11:10 PM Post #8 |
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Welcome here. Hows that for an answer. 4 different ways to solve your problem in less than 6 hours............you will learn to love this site |
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| Spidy | Feb 23 2012, 11:56 PM Post #9 |
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New Member
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The 5th gear and brake locked it up really good. I have a thirty-two-inch breaker bar along with some WD-40. I've been trying for a few hours with no movement. It's funny how they just breeze-over this part in all the tutorials. I've heard people say it's the hardest bolt to take out in the whole car! I'm not sure what to do now. |
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| Old Man | Feb 24 2012, 12:01 AM Post #10 |
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what do you mean? only thing you have said is that you need to take the bolt out, didnt say why. what are you doing? what do you need help with now. |
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| 1DCGUY | Feb 24 2012, 12:01 AM Post #11 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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Where are you located in Minnesota? Maybe one of us could help. |
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| Spidy | Feb 24 2012, 12:03 AM Post #12 |
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New Member
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My objective is to replace the crank seal. I've even tried my impact wrench to get it out with no luck. |
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| Old Man | Feb 24 2012, 12:05 AM Post #13 |
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here's a "how to" thanks to Bad Bent. might as well do both seals while you are in there--and replace the timing belt too I hahttp://geometroforum.com/topic/3083546/1/ve: Crank Seal How To and How to Cam Seal. that you can start with. Edited by Old Man, Feb 24 2012, 12:08 AM.
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| Spidy | Feb 24 2012, 12:08 AM Post #14 |
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I've looked over those tutorials. I unfortunately got stuck on the crank sprocket bolt. I've got all the parts. I was planning on replacing the cam seal, crank seal and PCV valve. My timing belt is new so I don't need to replace that. |
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| Richard123vmt | Feb 24 2012, 12:10 AM Post #15 |
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It does work to put a 17mm socket with a breaker bar or rachet pinned against the ground or frame and turn the engine over with coil disconnected. It will break free easily, but you must have it set up right or the bar could damage something. A variation (even more dangerous) is to lift the wrench with a hydraulic floor jack. If the car lifts put someone fat in the front seat. |
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