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| 17mm Crank bolt revmoval; It keeps spinning | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 23 2012, 05:28 PM (2,916 Views) | |
| Spidy | Feb 24 2012, 12:15 AM Post #16 |
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I've still got too much play even with the break on to try using the jack method. I took the timing belt off already, but I suppose if I had to I could put it back on and try the firth method. |
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| 91 ragtop | Feb 24 2012, 12:28 AM Post #17 |
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The hydraulic floor jack broke one loose for me when the impact and starter method wouldn't even faze it. You have to use a good box end wrench so you can keep it square to the bolt. Set it at about 4 o'clock and make sure to jack straight up. This is with a good prybar locking the flywheel through the hole on the bottom. Ken.... |
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| Spidy | Feb 24 2012, 01:55 AM Post #18 |
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Did the jack method. I got it off, but not easily. The car came off the ground a few times. I had a tight-fitting, high-quality open-end wrench on it, but it kept slipping off. I had to use a closed 17mm to get it done. I'm not sure how the "old" seal is suppose to look, but the one I took out looked as good as the new one. I'm not sure if this is how they're suppose to look after age or not. Thanks, guys!
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| Murf 59 | Feb 24 2012, 03:10 AM Post #19 |
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The factory uses a lot of Loctite. Make sure you use it when you put it all back together. Heat breaks down the loctite and make it much easier to remove. And since your replacing the seal, it won't hurt it with a bit of heat. |
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| clarkdw | Feb 24 2012, 04:35 AM Post #20 |
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Bolt needs to get up to 260 degrees C or 500 degrees F to soften the loctite. It makes it a lot easier. A propane torch will do it but it takes a while directed directly at the head of the bolt. |
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| 490k | Feb 24 2012, 11:11 AM Post #21 |
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I had to do a waterpump once in my driveway. Here's how I did it without an impact. You need a long 1/2" extension, a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar, possibly a cheater pipe, 17mm 1/2 drive socket, a jack stand and a piece of rope. Bring the engine up to TDC. Remove #1 spark plug. Rotate engine clockwise about 1/4 to 1/2 turn using the ratchet. This makes room in the cylinder. Feed the rope into the #1 sparkplug hole, about 12-15 inches works depending on what diameter rope. Make sure there's enough extra to remove the rope from the cylinder! Rotate the engine counter clockwise with the ratchet. the engine should lock up with the rope installed. If it doesn't, then you need to start over and insert more rope. Once it locks, place the end of the ratchet on the jack stand as shown in the pic for support and remove the bolt. You can slightly rotate the crankshaft clockwise again and remove the rope. It's crucial to have the #1 cylinder at TDC so you are NOT pushing on open valves. This is a trick I learned removing large (5" diameter or so) truck axle nuts.
Edited by 490k, Feb 24 2012, 11:13 AM.
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3:32 AM Jul 11