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no spark
Topic Started: Mar 1 2012, 06:59 PM (3,544 Views)
tomi14robie
Member
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The easiest way to check if the if the distributor is being driven is to remove the distributor cap(2 screws) and stand at the side of the car reaching in and turning the engine over,its possible to clearly see the rotor arm turning,ive just checked mine using this method,it only took 3 mins a to z
cheers and happy "feteling"(old english for mechanical repairing)
tom
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sgt b
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I have the same issue. 1992 vert 1.0 swapped engine old was running(smoking) replacement running before being pulled now no spark. grounds cleaned tightened, distributor replaced, coil replaced,timing checked ok, hair pulled out check. If you find out PLease let me know.
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crankcase


Get a cheap Harbor Freight spark tester. It goes between the plug and the plug wire and lights when you get fire. It's a good sanity check to see when and if you get fire.

Are you sure the distributer is pluged in? Also, on the standard transmission version, there is a plug comming from the transmission it will fit into. Make sure these are not swapped. I don't know if this applies to the auto transmission.
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m4ick
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Does the CEL light for a few seconds when you turn the car on?
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Really important to check the grounds, all the wiring, avoid swapping distributors from different year Geos. Got a Factory Service Manual? (search eBay for: geo metro factory manual) They have great diagnostic flow charts. ^o)

Or you can look at How to Pull a G10 and all the nice pictures and see what may be hooked up wrong or not.
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sgt b
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ok well couldnt see it firing on off screw driver. so even held coil wire in fingers.TRUST me not firing. Could it even be the computer?
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crankcase


Sgt b, any idea what year the new engine is? Were you able to keep original distributor? Try hooking a test light to low side of coil and observe while cranking.
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sgt b
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Thanks its a 1990 model 1.0 manual shift transplanted into a 1992 1.0 auto. Tried test light on coil no flash while cranking. Its not communicating from distributor to coil. Thinking it also may be distributor that was left outside while engine swap was in progress(no shop for me). Counld that be it.
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Stubby
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I helped a guy with his boat that had the same symptoms. It was timing. He had just timed it, and it was still too big of a gap somehow. I would double check that first...so...

Check your timing gap with feelers. <- i don't know if those are the right terms. I mean user a feeler gauge to check the gaps between the spinning rotor and the cap. Double check firing order <- as in check the right plugs go to the right spot on the distributor cap, and pull each wire and replace it till you hear the "click". Super simple and helps with sanity. I'm hoping it'll just be a loose plug wire.
Edited by Stubby, Mar 29 2014, 09:37 PM.
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crankcase


Make sure the distributor is pluged in correctly, it is a 2 conductor plug.

I am not familar with the particulars of the auto transmission version being put on a motor on that originally used a standard. Hopefully someone will chim in with the particulars. I think it is plug and play in your situation, but again, not really sure.

If I remember correctly, the low side of the coil has about 8 to 10 volts constant on it and a ground which is pulsed to to make it all work. Look for the hot voltage with your test light, I think it should be on all the time. The pick up coil at the distributor makes a small signal which is translated into the pulsing ground which kills the 8 to 10 volts to the coil and causes it to discharge. A simple, or old school oscilloscope, is nice for seeing these small signal patterns.
Edited by crankcase, Mar 31 2014, 08:46 AM.
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sgt b
New Member
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Thinking of going to my local Pull A Part getting another distributor and possible computer for lil 'vert. I gotta hurry still needs crap load of work before my daughter receives it for her sweet 16. Her mom won't let her have my old Eagle Talon. Too fast and my daughter is in love with lil 'vert.
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sgt b
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UPDATE: bypassed wiring harnass and ran a "hot" wire from battery to coil positive side. Then ran wire from coil positive to distributor black and white wire. Then brown wire from distributor to coil. IT FIRED! It will run briefly when gas is poured in throttle body. Injector not firing. Believe now its the safety that prevent injector from pulsing when not firing. WHERE is this safety and can it be bypassed?
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m4ick
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You bypassed spark and it sparked, don't bypass anything else until you get your spark. You probably have one problem that gives you no spark and no injector. Fix the spark you probably fix the injector.

No spark, no injector... always says to me crank position sensor or ECM. I bet the fuel pump isn't turning on either. I can't help but wonder if you are seeing the check engine light when you turn the key forward. Does it light for a second or two? Does the check engine light come on AT ALL? If not, your ECM is most likely not powering on.
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sgt b
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yes check engine light come on actually flashes 42 tps. yes fuel pump working. pumps fuel to injector.and unless crank shaft position sensor is somewhere else besides anywhere near crank. well am lost there can't be camshaft position sensor well 3 distributors says its not. ecm well thats a definet possible. where is it?
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m4ick
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No, ECM is probably fine then. Code 42 appears to be crank angle sensor. It's in the oil pan on the front of the motor not too far from the crank pulley. Been reading a bit and some people say their cars run but will throw a code with no crank position sensor so not really sure if that's why you aren't starting. Me personally, grab one from a junk yard and give it a go, doesn't look difficult to replace at all.

EDIT Your "cam sensor" from what I understand is part of the distributor.
Edited by m4ick, Apr 20 2014, 01:22 PM.
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