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| Fixed my intermittent clicky starter problem; symtoms similar to bad starter or starter solinoid | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 12 2012, 03:29 PM (8,408 Views) | |
| metromizer | Mar 12 2012, 03:29 PM Post #1 |
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I've been putting up with the familiar 'clicky starter' for 3 years. It finally got so bad, I had to do something. Symptoms: You hit the key, the lights dim alittle from the electrical load, but it won't start. The starter solenoid just clicks. At first you think it's got a weak or dead battery. Just twisting the key off, then back to the start position a few times usually got it to contact. At worst, a jumpstart would get me on my way. After doing some reading on this site, it seems that others had the same issue, and fixed it with a relay. I guess the ignition switch and various contacts between battery and solenoid get worn/corroded and aren't up to carrying the needed current. Old 6volt VW's had this same problem, as do Suzuki Samurais. Combing through a Samurai website, I stumbled across a stater relay kit, complete with pre-wired plug and instructions, for $23. I bought one for my Sami AND a second one for the Metro. I installed one in the Metro two weeks ago. 50-60 starts since the instal, and no more "Clickity, click, click..." Thought I'd pass it along.http://www.rocky-road.com/zukalt.html |
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| Woodie | Mar 13 2012, 05:11 AM Post #2 |
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I had the same thing. Finally replaced the starter (which comes with a new solenoid) I always suspected that it was the solenoid and not the starter motor itself. The bummer would be to replace the solenoid and be happy until the starter gave up six months later. |
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| metromizer | Apr 6 2012, 11:27 AM Post #3 |
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I suspect a lot of guys replace the entire starter/solenoid assembly, battery, or both, needlessly. I know if I charged up my battery to 12.8v, it would start for me. A couple days latter, back to 4-5 tries before the starter would spin and start the car. Common diagnosis (for a non-professional mechanic like myself) would be weak cell in a battery or failing contacts in the solenoid or starter motor. The internet is fantastic, as the Samurai forum is loaded with guys that had starter problems, they compare notes, and figure stuff out (just like this forum). Adding a simple and commonly available electrical relay fixed mine, which as of this morning now has hundreds of starts since I installed it, without a single mis-start.
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 6 2012, 11:35 AM Post #4 |
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Troll Certified
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So are you bypassing the solenoid, or just sending it to the solenoid differently? Someone break this down for me. |
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| Scoobs | Apr 6 2012, 05:41 PM Post #5 |
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:D
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Coche, when i get back from my vacation, i will send you a full image tutorial on my version of relay bypass, which works well can be done for under 10 bucks. |
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| 702852 | Feb 2 2014, 10:14 AM Post #6 |
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can you tell us how you wired it in?? I'm assuming... 85 ground 86 starter wire 87 12v battery positive 30 starter output Edited by 702852, Feb 2 2014, 10:14 AM.
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| pvr007 | Nov 9 2014, 12:45 AM Post #7 |
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Having the same issue, starter sometimes starts first time, sometimes takes two or three clicks to get it to start, I start me car at least 50 times a day and its becoming an issue, Should I buy the kit, make my own, or diagnose the problem and zoom in the real problem? If so what would be the steps required to find the issue, I do have a nice Voltmeter so that's a good start. Thanks in advance |
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| Woodie | Nov 9 2014, 08:18 PM Post #8 |
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If it clicks, then the power is getting to the solenoid. All the relays in the world are not going to help, it's already getting power. If you get that strong click but it doesn't turn over, it's the solenoid, the starter, the battery, or the big cables between the battery and the starter. |
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| fireflyin | Nov 9 2014, 08:39 PM Post #9 |
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had same problem and found out my battery terminal connectors had water in them so i replaced them new and no more click on my starter also took starter off and cleaned plunger a bit it was little greasy in there and bench tested it through everything back together and it started no problem and still no problem |
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| Silver2K | Nov 9 2014, 11:21 PM Post #10 |
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I had the starter click problem. Got worse & worse. Always seemed to happen at the worst time. I think I used Scoob's wiring diagram. Bought the relay on ebay for $3. It came with the relay connector prewired. 3 years now no problem. The fundamental problem is the ignition switch degrades & has too much resistance. Anything you do to reduce resistance will fix the problem for a while. For example, cleaning the battery posts, adjusting the clutch position sensor, cleaning the blade on the starter solenoid, jiggling the key, replacing the starter, getting a new battery. But the problem will return unless you replace the ignition switch, or bypass it with a relay. The ignition switch is $300. You can get a relay for $3 on ebay. |
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| pvr007 | Nov 10 2014, 04:54 AM Post #11 |
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do you have a link of the item you bought? |
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| Woodie | Nov 10 2014, 06:42 AM Post #12 |
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I don't understand how so many people can replace the parts that are working fine and fix the problem. Am I completely missing something here? If the solenoid goes click, then the ignition switch clutch/neutral safety switch, wiring and spade terminal on the solenoid HAVE DONE THEIR JOB. |
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| Silver2K | Nov 10 2014, 11:18 AM Post #13 |
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The solenoid is a magnetic device. It works on current (the magnetic field stength is directly proportional to current), not voltage. Current I = V/R. If R is too big, I is too small and the solenoid cannot activate. Anything that increases R can cause the click. If you google this topic on Samurais and Trackers you will see what they have in common is they lack starter relays so the ignition switch has to pass all the current in the solenoid. If you read enough of those threads you will see some people say they fixed it by replacing the starter or something else. But just as many people replace something and the problem returns. The relay is a $3 fix. |
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| Silver2K | Nov 10 2014, 11:31 AM Post #14 |
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Its been 3 years so I don't remember who I bought from, but here are several that look OK. I bought a 5 wire and removed one of the wires. But you just need a four wire if it is normally open. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-12V-30-40-Amp-Car-Auto-Automotive-Relay-With-Wiring-Harness-And-Socket-USA-/311131081986?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4870db8d02&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPDT-Automotive-Bosch-Type-S-Relay-40A-12V-With-Harness-/321525399827?pt=US_Relays_Sensors&hash=item4adc684113&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-12-Volt-4-Wire-Harness-4-Pin-40A-Amp-DC-Car-Motorcycle-Auto-Relay-Socket-/111465807293?pt=US_Relays_Sensors&hash=item19f3e13dbd&vxp=mtr |
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| Silver2K | Nov 10 2014, 12:23 PM Post #15 |
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You may also need an in line ATC fuse for safety. I had one lying around. But you can buy one on ebay for $3.50. Or you can buy one at Napa for the same price. |
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Thought I'd pass it along.




7:53 PM Jul 10