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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 20 2012, 02:45 PM (2,847 Views) | |
| econoboxer | Mar 22 2012, 09:41 AM Post #31 |
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I am the one on the left.
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take a close look at the clutch pad that your shoe presses down on-- If one corner is worn smooth, but no metal showing, it would be about right for the mileage claimed. However, if the pad has been taken off, and rotated, then is would show wear on diagonally opposite corners. Good luck, I am jealous. I wanted a vert, but here they are about 2500 in crap condition, and 4000 for nicer condition. Welcome Aaron, and good luck to you. My sister-in-laws exhusband said a similar thing to her about the car or him...,(while they were dating) when she was considering a dune buggy. She went down the very next day and bought it. they stayed together a few more years, then divorced due to his inability to keep his pants on around other women. Nobody likes ultimatums, and it sounds like communications classes might be beneficial for your relationship. Good luck and welcome again! |
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| Cearl | Mar 22 2012, 09:59 AM Post #32 |
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Yeah i've actually been thinking about that, thanks for the advice on the clutch pad so if everything checks out ok with the car i'm going to buy it, i don;t have a compression tester, or a mechanic i can take with me so i'm going to give it a chance and if the car feels ok when test driving and there is little to no rust i shall get it
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| bogs | Mar 22 2012, 10:08 AM Post #33 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Welcome to the boards Cearl As everyone else has said, if you don't know cars well yourself, bring a mechanic with you to look the vehicle over, it will save you tons of grief in the long run. Make sure to at least skim over the buyers guide ( http://geometroforum.com/topic/1666576/1/ ) as was pointed out earlier. If you can get the car on a lift, by all means do so and fully check the underside but if not make sure you have jacks and stands and crawl around under it. You will want to make sure there are no holes anywhere underneath as with any car, even in Fla. Lastly, although I don't consider myself to be a relationship consoler of any stripe, if your significant other says she will leave you based on what type of vehicle you own instead of who you are, she is most likely not the person you can build a successful life together with. After all, what would be the next reason she would leave you? Your shirt wouldn't be the right color blue? Your pants would not have the right label? "Things" as such that you own should matter very little, and as was said above emotional blackmail is a pretty petty way to go about life. |
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| Cearl | Mar 22 2012, 10:12 AM Post #34 |
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right, i agree bogs thanks for that you make a very good point. i think it's just more of the " safety " issue that she has if the car was to flip over i wouldn't be as protected as a car with a normal roof. She's lost three friends that have flipped over in cars and died, in yes, suvs and with roofs. so i don;t really know how to go about convincing her, but if she says she'll leave me if i get it i'm still going to get it because it's not right to be strapped down, twice she has done this to me. So we shall see how it turns out tomorrow. Thanks for the advice everyone! ,Aaron. Edited by Cearl, Mar 22 2012, 10:13 AM.
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| Bad Bent | Mar 22 2012, 11:02 PM Post #35 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Just a little post decision contemplation, but I enjoyed living in SoCal near ground zero during the cold war. It's like you see a flash and maybe you have time to "duck and cover" and then you are history. No radiation burns, scrounging for food, water and shelter, survival problems and fighting off mutants... like we will have here in Idaho, A 'vert can be much the same way. You probably won't survive the accident and face hospitals, rehab, insurance claims, mounting bills, disability, chronic pain and humiliation if it gets on YouTube. Unless of course you are the Vegas odds breaker who survives being thrown from a car and lands 150 feet away, unharmed. Consider roll bars.
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| Woodie | Mar 23 2012, 07:07 AM Post #36 |
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The problem here is the SUV, it's almost unheard of for a car to flip over. Similarly rare for an SUV to stay upright. |
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| Cearl | Mar 24 2012, 12:26 AM Post #37 |
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So sadly i must wait another week before i can go and fully look at the vert the guy was out today and i'm not off work till friday ugh -.-. be eh what the heck you know just another week. |
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| Cearl | Mar 24 2012, 05:58 PM Post #38 |
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I remember earlier i said i was having trouble with the site i think i found a fix for myself maybe other too, i just put www. in front of the URL |
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| rugerwin | Mar 24 2012, 06:05 PM Post #39 |
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i have joined just trying to figure out how to post. i am blond in picture. i have 1996 geo metro with 160,000 love her |
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| Cearl | Mar 24 2012, 06:22 PM Post #40 |
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Welcome!
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| Cearl | Mar 31 2012, 07:16 AM Post #41 |
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Ok so i went and looked at the car yesterday, everything runs great, it needs new tie rods which the guy has and he is giving me, there is a little bit of rust on the side like right in the middle of the car but right under the door, i don't know what that's called, he giving me the repair manual, there are new front arms are whatever they're called :P, new master cylinder, there is a very small oil leak on the engine, new clutch, the guy originally wanted 2300 for the car, i got him down to 1500, what do you guys think? Also another question, does the car require premium fuel? he says that's what he has been putting in it, is it possible to run it pretty close to dry then just use regular gas? Edit: Also i drove it i got the hang of manual it's simple really i just need to get from natural to first that's the hardest part, everything else was real easy, car drives in reverse, the A/C Blows STRONG! just no cold air the heater works great though, wipers work, everything the lights, missing a small button for the hazards, ummm the dash has a small crack in it, but i'm not worried about that, no other rust noticeable under the frame just that one spot, is there a link of a how to for how to fix that? no idea about welding if that's the case :P, gas gauge works, it starts at full even before you turn the car on you turn it on it goes to the level the gas is at, it does need a new top, other than that i like it, a lot, The guy was driving on 17" i asked for the stock wheels which he gladly said ok to Paint looks good, it has been repainted, but still looks great. the engine wobbles a little at first then slowly stops wobbling, no knocking heard from it, that's about it anything else i should've looked for? or am forgetting?
Edited by Cearl, Mar 31 2012, 07:25 AM.
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| econoboxer | Mar 31 2012, 07:33 AM Post #42 |
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I am the one on the left.
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That sir is a screaming deal for a 'vert. Check to make sure you have a the rubber seals around the windows and so on, those will be a pain to source. I say, go for it. You will need to address the oil leak. The shaking motor at start up could be as simple as needing a tune up/vacuum lines. Buy it, and sell the 17's on craigslist, and make some money back. |
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| bogs | Mar 31 2012, 03:14 PM Post #43 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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1.) Sounds like you got that out of the way already 2.) That is a rocker panel, they are notorious for rusting out, either cut a suitable replacement from one in the boneyard or bend/fab from stock and weld in and repaint. Alternatively you can fiberglass it back in, but you defiitely want it sealed. 3.) If your talking about the frame horns, I'd want to see pictures. If your talking about the actual swing arms, make sure the frame horns are good. If your talking about something else, post pictures. 4.) Good. 5.) Depends on where it is coming from, but is likely not major. 6.) Good. 7.) Great. 8.) None of these cars require premium, if it is running on premium there are a few situations I can think of. a.) the owner *thinks* premium is a special gasoline. b.) he has advanced the spark timing all the way and doesn't want to hear the knock / ping. Check to make sure your distributor isn't set all the way to the firewall, if not, run the car on regular unleaded. { Additonal } - I would take the 17" wheels with the car as well as the stock wheels and sell the 17" wheels ![]() - define 'wobbles' - other things to look for would be rusting on the rear suspension boxes where the swing arms meet the cars frame, the rear wheel wells (both from under the car and from inside the trunk area). T3 probably knows these cars better than anyone, I am sure he will chime in, Old Man has investigated his a lot as well and should have more than just the general information above. Hopefully others will pop in as well, 'verts in particular are not my balliwick. |
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| Cearl | Mar 31 2012, 03:30 PM Post #44 |
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i asked for just the stock 13" because i don;t have the money for the car with the 17" rims, i believe he said that he replaced the frame horns, didn't see any rust looked under the car too didn't see rust, since the engine is a three cylinder it tend the shake a bit, it wobbled then just slightly wobbled like i have seen a 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder car shake i guess difficult to explain, he also replaced the rear struts. I'm going to buy the car, and slowly work on it, first thing i'm going to fix is the tie rods. Yeah! the rocker panel, are they very structurally important?, guy says a guy said it'll cost 300 dollars to fix, i have no idea how to even start with treating rust, so should i pay the 300$ or grind away the rust with some sort of sander then spray some rustolium? |
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| Old Man | Mar 31 2012, 04:13 PM Post #45 |
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Yeah the 3 bangers shake a little. If its too much check your motor mounts. for rusted rocker panels. grind till no rust, treat to combat rust.----got to harbor freight and buy a cheap welder ($100 or less), then get some galvanized flashing from a hardware store and practice welding. after a few hours of practice get some more flashing and form it for new rocker panels, weld it on grind it smooth and paint. and Yes, Bogs pretty well covered the rest, even for a Vert |
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so if everything checks out ok with the car i'm going to buy it, i don;t have a compression tester, or a mechanic i can take with me so i'm going to give it a chance and if the car feels ok when test driving and there is little to no rust i shall get it 
It's like you see a flash and maybe you have time to "duck and cover" and then you are history. No radiation burns, scrounging for food, water and shelter, survival problems and fighting off mutants... like we will have here in Idaho,

i got the hang of manual it's simple really i just need to get from natural to first that's the hardest part, everything else was real easy, car drives in reverse, the A/C Blows STRONG! just no cold air the heater works great though, wipers work, everything the lights, missing a small button for the hazards, ummm the dash has a small crack in it, but i'm not worried about that, no other rust noticeable under the frame just that one spot, is there a link of a how to for how to fix that? no idea about welding if that's the case :P, gas gauge works, it starts at full even before you turn the car on you turn it on it goes to the level the gas is at, it does need a new top, other than that i like it, a lot, The guy was driving on 17" i asked for the stock wheels which he gladly said ok to Paint looks good, it has been repainted, but still looks great. the engine wobbles a little at first then slowly stops wobbling, no knocking heard from it, that's about it anything else i should've looked for? or am forgetting?

7:58 PM Jul 10