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95 1.3 in a 96 metro no crank sensor!; crank sensor
Topic Started: Apr 14 2012, 07:58 PM (4,388 Views)
jojoed
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are u talking about the crank sprocket or the cam i changed the bottom one that did not have the teeth on it for the sensor the top one on the cam is the one i did not change,thanx.
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jojoed
Apr 16 2012, 10:21 AM
are u talking about the crank sprocket or the cam i changed the bottom one that did not have the teeth on it for the sensor the top one on the cam is the one i did not change,thanx.
The '96 and after camshaft gear is wider. You should change that, also.

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jojoed
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ok i will thanx,would that keep it from not firen? also is there a way to check the crank sensor? and or the coil?? this is really got me puzzled as all the parts i changed over were from a working motor...
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96Geoman


Why did you install another engine in the car?

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jojoed
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the engine in it smoked real bad and was knocking i thought it would be cheaper to just replace the engine with a used one rather then rebuild the one i have....seems i was wrong..lol
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96Geoman


A clogged catalytic converter can keep an engine from starting.

You said you were not getting spark, so that's something else.

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jojoed
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yes no spark at all none from the coil,to the wires.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

I need a program to keep track of what parts you've changed or kept but perhaps testing will help :dunno

Test CKP and/or CMP sensor
Help 1999 Metro won't start. Turns out to be bad wires at post #60.
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jojoed
New Member
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seems i have changed what everyone suggested to do i have the oil pump,pan,dist,crank pully,and cam pully and the crank sensor off the 96 motor on to the 95, i have checked the crank sensor, but where is the cam sensor?
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Good bye


In the distributor.
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96Geoman


The cam sensor should be inside the distributor.

Have you connected an OBD scanner to the car to see if any codes are registering? The connector is below the steering wheel column.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

If you have a crank position sensor you will have an Ignitor in the distributor. With a crank sensor you shouldn't have a cam sensor. Basically the Ignitor will be sending the ECM on the cam position.

oil pump (clean the relief valve)
pan (no gasket)
dist. (secure, clean or new and correct rotor)
crank pulley (and original sprocket that the crank sensor reads off of)
cam pulley (timing belt is correct: both crank sprocket and cam pulley marks)
crank sensor (no gasket and it has the correct DVOM signal).

Thinking out loud... you pull the engine and disconnect the grounds, sensors, dist, so you might compare your work with How to pull a G10. Fuses, fuel relay. We have had incorrectly assembled valve lifters, wrong/cracked distributor, timing belt, oil pan gasket, low battery, broken/burnt wires, bad coil, bad plug wires or plugs/gap, The ground wires not bolted to the intake manifold, bad TPS setting, cracked cam, sheered crank woodruff key, and loose cam gear as no or hard starting issues. My FSM says ECT, TPS, fuel pump relay, fuel pressure, water contamination, ignition voltage output, plugs, shorts, water in dist. cap, loose connections, worn dist. shaft, ISC and no crank signal.

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jojoed
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ok ill check it out dose anyone have a pic of it im just wondering if i got the wrong dist because thay both look the same the one from the 95 and the 96,i will try and get a obd scanner but i dont know if autozone or advance will rent those...thanx
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jojoed
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also the only thing i can think of that might of not been correct is the crank pully looked like it was missing 2 of the lil teeth on it for the crank sensor would that hurt anything?
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96Geoman


jojoed
Apr 16 2012, 06:55 PM
also the only thing i can think of that might of not been correct is the crank pully looked like it was missing 2 of the lil teeth on it for the crank sensor would that hurt anything?
The crank sensor will not fire if a tooth is missing.
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