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| fuel system / help; repairing brake lines and fuel system | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 16 2012, 02:23 PM (1,175 Views) | |
| walt911 | Apr 16 2012, 02:23 PM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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hi all, new here but need a little help, i just purchased a 1997 geo metro lsi 2 door hatchback with 79k miles for 2 grand, seller said no problems, 3 days later it has a brake line leak so decided to replace of which a mechanic said its rusted very bad including the gas lines and tank. Was wondering if anyone can help with some advice to this type of car. I dont want to get rid of it, love the car and am willing to pay but does $1,000 sound right for the entire fuel system and brake line repair sound right? Maybe i can do this myself and save how much $$ ?? am interested in all peoples replys, thanks! walt email amythystcrystals@hotmail.com if u can help |
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| 490k | Apr 16 2012, 02:48 PM Post #2 |
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I bought a 4 door that was rusted pretty bad like that. I had a parts car I used for the replacement gas tank and some of the steel brake lines. Others I made. I'm not even sure if that cluster of fuel lines is available. It was a bitch though. I replaced the tank, tank lines, brake lines over the rear suspension, 2-3 lines running up to the front of the car and the brake line along the firewall. You can do them yourself, you just need to do alot of measuring and invest in a flaring tool and tool to bend steel lines. |
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| sphenicie | Apr 17 2012, 08:09 AM Post #3 |
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Hey Walt, $1000? someone is getting taken! Dont make the lines hard on yourself. there is no good reason to follow the path of the original lines. you can buy a roll of brake line 25' long for $18 at any parts store, a POS flare tool for $15, and a handfull of rubber line hangers for $5. Why do you NEED to replace the tank? OH thats so the guy can say he replaced it, and charge you a bunch extra. . is that palmer, Mich., right there by the Empire mine? |
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| Fireball 89 | Apr 17 2012, 09:52 AM Post #4 |
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2.4 Cylinders of Determination
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Hi walt911- Just like 490k stated, you can do this your self. Most parts houses will have a whole rack of steel hydraulic (brake and fuel) lines from about 6 inches to about 4 feet. Let's say you've got a broken brake line, the crack/hole is on a rusty section. You see the area around the crack/hole is also rusted pretty bad, you look before and after the crack/hole to find a section that has not been rusted heavily. After studying the area you decide to cut about 3 inches before the crack/hole and 8 inches after. Your replacement line will need to be at least 11 inches. At the parts house you may have to buy the 1 foot line. Make sure you get the same internal and external (tubing) diameter. You will also need to buy "connectors" that will "compression connector" onto your existing brake line, and then "compression connector" onto your replacement line. The "compression connector" joins two lines together, it will go over one line about 1/2 inch or so and then screw tightens, the replacement line will then go into the other side, almost meeting the other line right in the middle of the connector, and then also will be screw tightened. Tools needed will be tape measure, tubing cutter, wrenches. As you get into the bendy sections then you will need tubing benders, line de-burr -ers, and maybe some "bailing wire" to duplicate and measure your tube bends. If you get more into lines then you may need flaring and double flaring tools. Replace a couple of straight sections, move up to a couple of small bendy sections, then you'll be ready to replace a whole hard line. Working with tubing takes some time, feel, and patience. Each step needs attention for the whole replacement line to work. Edward |
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| bogs | Apr 17 2012, 11:20 AM Post #5 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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While all of the above posts are very good, I don't see that anyone mentioned bleeding the brakes. When you are finished replacing the lines, either the whole line (which is my preference since it is so cheap) or the section as Fireball suggests using compression fittings, the brake fluid is going to need to be replaced. To do this, you will need to have dot3 brake fluid (get a large bottle), and either someone to pump your brake pedal or a vacuum pump with a hose to fit over the bleeder nipples. Start from the farthest brake from the master cylinder and work towards the closest bleeding the air out in turn. |
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| walt911 | Apr 20 2012, 06:51 AM Post #6 |
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Fresh Fish
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walt here, thanks all! Very stressful sisuation! i put her in the shop, the job is to big. they said its a touch and go sisuation because of the flakey rust, when u start replacing lines other ones / parts / components start following, a domino effect. The brake lines cross the gas lines in the junction box so i know shes gunna be over a grand but everything else is sound. At least shell have a new fuel delivery system and brake/gas lines....they found a hole in the oil pan too.....its my first geo but hopefully my last! i heard they go on forever which is y i purchased from extensive research. I only pray she keeps her "mpg" intact after this big surgery, spose to be a 2 week job sigh.....Shes an automatic by the way. What else is expected with these lil' runners? Hit me up! Walt sphenicle, its in palmer massachusetts. |
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| 490k | Apr 20 2012, 08:58 AM Post #7 |
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You can't use compression fittings on brake lines. They have to be double flared. |
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| Rooy | Apr 20 2012, 11:25 AM Post #8 |
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Just about any car can go on forever as long as you keep fixing it, and Metros are no different, nor are they immune to needing repairs and regular maintenance. I hope you've read about frame rust where the front A-arms attach. If your brake and fuel lines are rusting out, there's a very good chance your frame horns are rusting. They rust from the inside and can appear to be in good shape until it's too late and they give way. You need to poke at them with a screwdriver to find any soft spots. Also check the rockers for rust. If there are rust holes, it's best to fix them sooner rather than later. If you haven't already, check out the Buyer's Info here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/1666576 |
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| bogs | Apr 20 2012, 11:46 AM Post #9 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Correction, you *shouldn't* use compression fittings on brake lines, and while I certainly agree with this, I do have to admit I have done this as a temporary solution. |
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| 490k | Apr 20 2012, 03:04 PM Post #10 |
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I'm no Ralph Nader, but using compression fittings on a hydraulic brake system is both unsafe and illegal in some states. A better temporary solution would be a taxi. |
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| me2 | Apr 20 2012, 03:26 PM Post #11 |
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Maybe by 'temporary' he is talking about his new 'life span'. Just yokeing. Bogs , Harbor Freight sells a brake bleeder thingy for super cheap that is a little bottle with a diaphram (doesn't prevent pregnancy) that really actually works. As a one guy operation here I was pleased to find it works. You push this hose onto your bleeder valve and then pump. The diaphram prevents air from bleeding back into the system. Once you are convinced you have clean , air free fluid entering the bottle you tighten the 'zerk'. about a buck fitty if I remember right - something like that . |
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| bogs | Apr 21 2012, 05:49 PM Post #12 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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490k, as I said, it certainly is not my recommended way to fix the lines, my suggestion is full replacement. me2, I do not need a self bleeding kit, not sure why your pointing out hf's to me but perhaps walt911 can note the information for later use
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| gerrygrit | Apr 21 2012, 09:08 PM Post #13 |
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Have been known in a pinch...to cut out a section of the brake line and replace it with a flexible line and a couple of hose clamps... not for a long term fix.... but to use while ordering or "building" new lines...... Was young and foolish with one car for transportation then
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but perhaps walt911 can note the information for later use

7:48 PM Jul 10