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| Crank shaft seal ? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 20 2012, 11:42 AM (2,012 Views) | |
| ronco | Apr 20 2012, 11:42 AM Post #1 |
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New Member
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I have a bad engine oil leak, seemed to be around the timing cover ( oil on alt, fire wall, water pump). I bought a new crank seal and timing belt. I took the timing cover off and there is no oil inside the timing cover, I thought the inside of the cover and the timing belt would have oil if the crank seal was leaking. I looked around under the engine and it looks like the oil pan might be leaking. Checked the pan bolts and some were a little loose and looks like the pan gasket is squirting out. I checked and cleaned the PCV and it seemed OK. Oil filter and the oil sending unit is not leaking. Anything else that I might be missing? Thanks Ron. |
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| 944door | Apr 20 2012, 11:46 AM Post #2 |
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The oil pan gasket is that awful cork bs. Replace the oil pan gasket with a nice bead of black or grey rtv sealant. |
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| Bad Bent | Apr 20 2012, 07:40 PM Post #3 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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And the torque on those little bolts is only 8 foot pounds. |
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| ronco | Apr 21 2012, 04:42 AM Post #4 |
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New Member
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If the crank seal is leaking will there be oil in the timing cover? I don't want to seal it all up and have to take it apart again. I'm draining the oil pan now and will get the black rtv silicone, scrape the old gasket off, clean up the pan and get it sealed. Damn, 8 ft pounds surprised I didn't snap some bolts off with the air ratchet. |
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| Jittney | Apr 21 2012, 06:26 AM Post #5 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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"oil on alt, fire wall, water pump)" Suggest double checking your seal on the oil dip stick. |
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| ronco | Apr 21 2012, 09:20 AM Post #6 |
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New Member
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Will do, thank you. |
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| ronco | Apr 22 2012, 12:19 PM Post #7 |
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New Member
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Well I took off the oil pan and the gasket looked like it had really thin spots on it like wear areas or maybe just squished. Cleaned the pan and bolts in the solvent tank, dried them and used a wire wheel on the drill on the pan sealing area. Checked the dip stick and the o ring was cut, put new one on and put the RTV sealer on that and the pan and put back together. Sprayed the engine compartment and underneath with Gunk degreaser, used the pressure washer on it and its all nice and clean. If this cured the oil leak I'll start on the body work and then rebuild the transmisson.
Edited by ronco, Apr 22 2012, 12:21 PM.
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| vnes1984 | Apr 23 2012, 11:10 AM Post #8 |
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Fresh Fish
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ronco, keep us updated. I'm interested to find out if your oil leak has stopped. I might have the same problem. |
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| ronco | Apr 23 2012, 12:51 PM Post #9 |
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New Member
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I drove to work and back, 60 miles total and it is still dry. Kinda scared me, looked at it before I left work with a flashlight and saw some spots on the timing cover. Reached down there and felt something sticky and I thought WTH, oh yeah thats right I put some belt dressing on the belt while it was running. Mobil 1 oil is too expensive to be pouring on the ground, I use the extended kind 15,000 mile oil. |
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| GeoStalker | Apr 24 2012, 07:59 PM Post #10 |
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"Chicks dig me and guys think I'm cool."
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I'm having the same problem with my daughter's 93 vert. It's had oil leaks that date back to the PO, and I've taken this thing EVERYWHERE to get it diagnosed and fixed. At idle it won't leak, but under load it leaks.....hmmmm. A few weeks ago a buddy mechanic of mine replaced the crank seal and the cam seal. I drove it home with no leaks, but that was only 3 miles, and it sat for a few weeks. My wife and I took an hour long trip in the country, and it leaked all over the driveway when I parked it. I took it back to my friend to diagnose. It's not the cam seal. It's not the crank seal. He seems to think it's the oil pump plate (or oil pump shim or gasket or whatever you call it). He generally works on Toyota's and says the plate can crack and only show symptoms of an oil leak under load. So if it's in idle it won't leak, but under full load it will "weep" through the crack. Plus he noticed not only a gasket in there but also alot of RTV sealant. So it's possible between the two there are gaps that will leak under load. Anybody with this issue?? Edited by GeoStalker, Apr 24 2012, 08:01 PM.
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| Jittney | Apr 24 2012, 08:53 PM Post #11 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Remove the gasket. Use red RTV. |
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| Woodie | Apr 25 2012, 05:58 AM Post #12 |
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Isn't there some thingy about two different oil pumps which require completely different gaskets? I vaguely remember reading something about this. Bet GeoGlenn knows. |
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 25 2012, 10:30 PM Post #13 |
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Troll Certified
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You know what, I think mine is leaking in the same place. If I fix mine before you fix yours, i'll be sure to tell you how. |
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| catfishWhisperer | Apr 26 2012, 01:12 PM Post #14 |
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New Member
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Who makes the best crank seals? Timken, Fel-Pro, etc? |
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| ronco | Apr 28 2012, 07:59 AM Post #15 |
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New Member
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Well it's been a week and it seems the RTV sealer on the oil dipstick tube and oil pan cured the leak. Thank you for the tips and the PM's. Now without the oil on the passenger door, going to try patching up two holes that I have from rusting out. I been looking at some of the body work that some of you have done and have bought the supplies to get it done. So that is my project for this week end. If I get the posting pics thing figured out I'll post them up. |
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