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| Some Problems found - New to metro, Need Help | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 29 2012, 08:04 PM (795 Views) | |
| eabooher | Apr 29 2012, 08:04 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Hi everyone. I posted the "New to Metro, Need Help" post a couple days ago, but have advanced enough I think a new post was warranted. Hope this was OK. Background, just bought a 2000 Metro with the 1.0, 5 speed. 154K miles, timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor were all recently replaced. Ran decent with no oil burn, plugs were clean, compression was 152 on all 3 cylinders (throttle was closed, but think it still showed good). Ran sluggish, adjusted distributor as far as it would go and it helped. After running a while and shut off, would not start for a couple hours then would start and run again (I am not trying to figure this one out right now though I think it is the injector). Anyway, some suggested the timing belt was off a tooth so I dug into that today and found the marks lined up perfectly but belt seemed loose and took all the adjuster adjustment to get it tighter so I thought it had stretched. Took it off and went to parts house to compare and found that it had NOT stretched BUT did notice the crankshaft gear was wobbly. Once I finally managed to get the crank gear off, I found the key in the crank snout was deformed and the slot looks wallowed out. I was going to attach pics but haven't figured that out yet. Looks like it has to be URL and I just have them on my computer. Anyway, it looks like I need a new crank. Also noticed it looked like the crank gear was wearing into the block. Now the questions ( I think I already know the answers but guess I want confirmation. 1) Is it possible to change out the crank and bearings without pulling the engine? (this is the one I think I know the answer to.) 2) On the wear into the block, there was nothing behind the crank sprocket should there have been a spacer or is it more likely that the key slid back and allowed the sprocket to go too far back when the bolt was tightened down? 2) Since I figure I'm going to have to go through the trouble to pull the engine, I am trying to decide if it is worth it to just rebuild or put in a remanufactured engine. Opinions? How far do these engines usually make it when they seem in good health, 150k miles, 200K, 250K? 3) Assuming everything is usable (besides crank) what have you all experienced as a cost of rebuild (machine work, pistons, rings, cams, etc.)? 4) Any reputable rebuilders to get remanufactured long or short block from that you recommend if I do go all the way with it? 5) Any tips or tricks that I won't find in the rebuild articles on this site? Any good rebuild books for them? I've done quite a few Ford V-8's but never a 3 cylinder. Any help you all can throw my way is greatly appreciated. I'm a little bummed to be having to do this already but I didn't give a whole lot for it so if I can get out for $500 to a grand with a pretty fresh engine, it'll all be good. Time to do it all is a whole different story. Thanks again, Eric |
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| Bad Bent | Apr 29 2012, 08:45 PM Post #2 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Excellent diagnosis! For pictures, yes you need a free online hosting site membership. The how to - Posting Images The woodruff key - some sites; Crank Pulley, Woodruff key Johnny Mullet's redneck solution Johnny's suggestion using a set screw |
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| eabooher | Apr 29 2012, 09:03 PM Post #3 |
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Hmmm, the redneck fix has me intrigued, seems like it is worth at least a try.........I am from Alabama. Any thoughts on the sprocket getting into the block some anyone? Guess it still could be the key going too far back in. Forgot in my original post. Who sells new 5 bolt crank sprockets? Getting mine off was a real pain with the key somewhat twisted and some pieces in the back broke off. Thanks for the idea! Edited by eabooher, Apr 29 2012, 09:04 PM.
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 29 2012, 09:16 PM Post #4 |
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Troll Certified
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Are you still in Alabama? |
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| eabooher | Apr 29 2012, 09:26 PM Post #5 |
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New Member
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Sure am, North Alabama, such as yourself. |
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 29 2012, 09:31 PM Post #6 |
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Troll Certified
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http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=583893&t=4464045 This might keep you from needing a new crank. Edited by Coche Blanco, Apr 29 2012, 09:32 PM.
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| eabooher | Apr 29 2012, 09:35 PM Post #7 |
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New Member
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Thanks for the tips guys, I appreciate it! Also helps knowing this is not uncommon. |
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| Stiffchezze | Apr 29 2012, 09:48 PM Post #8 |
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Sir Metrologist
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WELCOME! ![]() There is a great many of us in the mid to north Alabama part of the state. Lots of knowledge right down the road! I personally have run the "redneck fix" on another car and have had no problems 50,000 miles later. I would suggest going ahead and replacing the crankshaft seal before you do it though. (this one comes from experience )Of course there is always a Geo Glenn engine: Link--->Geo Glenn Engines If you ask me $850 for an engine with that pedigree is a steal!
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| eabooher | Apr 30 2012, 05:01 PM Post #9 |
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New Member
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Thanks to everyone for the tips. I picked up a new woodruff key today that is a perfect fit. There is enough meat left in the slot to line it up really well so it looks like with a little JB Weld it's going to work. Found a new crank gear as well so I'm going to keep my fingers crossed. I figure the worst thing that can happen is that it lets loose even with lock tight and a good torque but then, I'm no worse off than I am now and I can cross that bridge if I come to it. Thanks again, Eric |
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