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| Alternator swapping?; Have 55Amp need 80-90Amp | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 4 2012, 01:30 PM (1,154 Views) | |
| MetroMatt | May 4 2012, 01:30 PM Post #1 |
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I'm clearly drowning way too much power from my alternator between the bright headlights and stereo, I believe I have the stock 55amp. Does anyone know of an 80amp alternator from another vehicle that can be swapped in and will work? |
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| starscream5000 | May 4 2012, 01:32 PM Post #2 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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Check out T3's build thread, he detailed what he did to fit his larger one in his. |
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| MetroMatt | May 4 2012, 02:19 PM Post #3 |
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Sounds involved, I'll give it a shot. I really didn't understand the 4 gauge upgrade and grounding and everything else involved (electrically) |
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| starscream5000 | May 4 2012, 02:51 PM Post #4 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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The stock wires aren't meant to handle the higher amps, this is a requirement if you want to upgrade. If you don't want to, then consider removing the sound system or you'll be replacing alternators on a regular basis. |
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| Shinrin | May 4 2012, 03:04 PM Post #5 |
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Add a solar panel or two onto the roof to offset the electricity use. |
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| MetroMatt | May 4 2012, 06:16 PM Post #6 |
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Starscream5000: I'm not saying I don't get the purpose of it. I'm saying I'm still a little fuzzy on how to actually do it. |
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| evmetro | May 6 2012, 12:49 PM Post #7 |
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I run the cs144 in my metro. It seems to be quite the workhorse. I have converted other vehicles to this setup as well. No brainer wiring too. You can get these at your local parts store in 100, 120 and 140 amp models, and other sources have 200 amp and up models. I run the 140 and have no headlight dimming when the beats are turned all the way up. No capacitors either with 5 amplifiers and volts fluctuating between between 14 and 14.6 |
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| t3ragtop | May 6 2012, 01:38 PM Post #8 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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you just run a 4 gauge wire from the output post of the alternator to the battery. install a fuse on the cable that it just slightly larger than the full output of the alternator, like a 110 amp fuse on a 105 amp alternator. the fuse protects the cable, not the alternator or battery. don't exceed the ampacity of the cable itself. the ground cable from the battery to the engine block has to be as large as the positive side. all the current that moves from the alternator to the battery also moves through the ground cable. the same thing applies to any loads you attach to the battery. the current that moves on the positive side also moves on the negative side. i.e. - you don't use an 8 gauge supply cable with a 14 gauge ground wire on a stereo amp. you'd melt the smaller wire. |
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| evmetro | May 6 2012, 01:58 PM Post #9 |
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I ran 4 straight to the battery and routed 8 from the battery through the 60 amp protection in the box assuming that it was acting as a master protection for that entire box... I guess it is now. I suppose i am rolling the dice with no protection between th alt and battery but alt has a lifetime warranty and the battery has a prorated. |
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| evmetro | May 6 2012, 02:03 PM Post #10 |
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T3, it's funny you mentioned the grounding. I have seen so many people run 0 gauge all the way back and then leave the cheesy factory ground cable back to the ground post. |
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| area50.9 | Aug 1 2012, 02:46 AM Post #11 |
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Member
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and i gota question in the same topic, say if i wanna use the ford prodes alternator does it matter what year it is? |
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| 95 Green Flash | Aug 1 2012, 02:59 AM Post #12 |
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New Member
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Hey guys I am having the same problem. I installed a 80 amp alternator in my 95 1.3 to replace the 55amp stock and I am running a power inverter off the battery but the inverter keeps shutting off because of the input voltage drops below 10 volts can I run a wire from the alternator directly to the inverter to bypass the battery and give the juice directly??? |
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| Woodie | Aug 1 2012, 06:29 AM Post #13 |
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Sounds as if you're simply asking too much of the charging system. What the hell are you running off the inverter? |
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| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
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