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| Exploring radiator options; I WANT A BIGGER RADIATOR. Has any one done a Radiator swap with a GTI? | |
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| Topic Started: Jun 17 2012, 05:29 AM (728 Views) | |
| calrenman | Jun 17 2012, 05:29 AM Post #1 |
Just another wrench.
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Hello I wish to put a two row aluminum radiator in my 1998 metro 3/5 hatch back. Has anyone done this? I have been told that a GTI would work. Is it bolt in or heavy mods? Thanks |
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| rydholm11211 | Jun 17 2012, 11:05 PM Post #2 |
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Big sky
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WHY? Is your 3 banger turbo out or something, I think that is a waste of time and money. |
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| Shinrin | Jun 17 2012, 11:07 PM Post #3 |
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If you don't have it modded out, the stock sized radiator is more than enough. Some people have trouble getting their cars completely warmed up. |
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| Geo Glenn | Jun 17 2012, 11:09 PM Post #4 |
What's in your engine?
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 If you're having an overheating problem, a standard replacement radiator will be adequate. |
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| Jittney | Jun 18 2012, 12:12 AM Post #5 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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My radiator fan virtually never kicks in. I wonder if I can get by with a smaller one? Has anyone ever tried it? Are there any available? Maybe a motorcycle one? |
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| Old Man | Jun 18 2012, 12:17 AM Post #6 |
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If you are looking for a M/C radiator to try I would suggest an early 80s 700cc or 1100cc Honda Shadow radiator. About the right size and they already are equiped with a fan attached, and both of those engines develop more heat than the Metro does. ---I have owned both so I am familiar with their setups......... |
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| calrenman | Jun 18 2012, 06:45 AM Post #7 |
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Just another wrench.
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Have any of you heard of Death valley or the Mohave desert? I like Over kill for such environments. I like my A/C! I drive through these places so all the comments are not applicable. Glen I have a twelve year old radiator, 5 years past scheduled maintenance. It is functioning but given its age it is time! Any suggestions? |
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| bogs | Jun 18 2012, 11:18 AM Post #8 |
Duct tape heals all wounds
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Dual core radiator is not overkill, the radiator is a storage unit, nothing more. It holds fluid until the thermostat opens and then fluid passes through to cool the engine. The amount you have on hand to cool the engine is determined by (you guessed it) the storage unit, i.e. the radiator. Having more fluid cooled on hand to pass through when asked for isn't going to hurt anything and certainly isn't going to keep your car from warming up properly. |
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| Jittney | Jun 18 2012, 12:04 PM Post #9 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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I'm taking into consideration that I live in Alaska and I use an inline Katz heater to preheat the coolant. A smaller amount of coolant to heat might be economical. No? Yes? |
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| nerys | Jun 18 2012, 12:24 PM Post #10 |
Grr
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in alaska yes. down here more storage means less likely to need the "fan" when the fan kicks on this means you "ran out" of cool fluid and the engine is still heating up. more cooling means less fan which means less power which means better fuel economy :-) |
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| mjspiess | Jun 18 2012, 02:09 PM Post #11 |
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I have a dual core all aluminum radiator in my '95 Metro. I had no idea it was dual core I opened the box. I ordered it on eBay for $108 shipped. At the time it was the cheapest all aluminum one I could find and it just happened to be dual core too. The seller's store site is here: http://stores.ebay.com/RWIAMERICA Unfortunately they are not selling any more radiators for the Metro. It was a direct bolt in with no modifications. I'd search eBay & find the cheapeast all aluminum option available. They usually describe the tank as plastic or aluminum & core aluminum, find one that lists aluminum for both tank & core as aluminum disipates heat well and lasts longer than the plastic tanks. As long as you don't have a grill block, a single row all aluminum radiator should work just fine, but if you find a dual core, that could be a bonus in your case. |
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| Rang-a-Stang | Jun 18 2012, 03:34 PM Post #12 |
Schmuck
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I still think the stock radiator would work. I have driven my car through the inland empire at 110 degrees in stop and go traffic on the 60east and my radiator fan cycled on and off as the drive went on rather than being stuck on the whole time as if it could not keep up. Have you tried this: Redline Water Wetter I had a Ford Ranger with a 5.0 swap and when I dropped this additive in, the coolant temps dropped significantly. It's pretty amazing stuff. I would take your car to a shop and have them do a GOOD cooling system flush, replace the thermostat, and add Water Wetter. Royal Purple has an additive that does the same thing but I have not used it. |
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| BigRobRN | Jun 18 2012, 04:45 PM Post #13 |
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Advanced Member
  ![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)
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I just replaced mine with a spectra premium. It is twice the thickness and is functioning exactly as it needs to. No regrets. |
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| nerys | Jun 18 2012, 08:44 PM Post #14 |
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Grr
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yeah but that cycling is costing you fuel. a larger radiator might eliminate that (granted not really worth the savings for a stock car) but when I go without an alternator it COULD make a big difference in my effect range :-) |
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| bogs | Jun 19 2012, 10:56 AM Post #15 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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In your case I would assume yes  but we are talking outside normal operation, and I have never used a Katz heater so I am not sure how it would cause the thermostat to open prematurely to allow your heated fluid in to warm the block. It would seem to me a good block heater combined with a normal radiator would do as much good, but I have no reference to base that on. |
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