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3 cyl. head; removing the cyl. head
Topic Started: Jul 1 2012, 09:10 AM (976 Views)
portagoosey
New Member
[ *  * ]
Howdy, I lost a spark plug in my 3 cyl. and i installed an insert but not all of the chips came out so now I have no compression. The head needs to be removed and my question is, do you remove it with the intake and exhaust attached or disconnect them in the car and just remove the head? Seems like it's almost impossible to reach some of the fasteners underneath the intake and exhaust. Also, is there an experienced Geo mechanic in the Sacramento, Ca. area?
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Memphis metro


on a 97 model is easier to just remove it with the manifolds on it. Earlier models its fairly easy to remove just the head and leave the intake manifold in the car. With the exhaust manifold, just remove the two spring bolts tying the pipe to the manifold. That way you dont have to worry about breaking any exhaust manifold bolts or studs.
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nathan298
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Geo Resurrector

Spray PB Blaster on any rusty looking bolts. One of the threads I was reading on here said to and it worked great. I got my exhaust manifold bolts off with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet.
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dover
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Did it actually shoot out your plug? I had that happen on a car and it left a dent in the hood. Most people that I've told about it had never heard of anything like that happening.
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rydholm11211
Big sky

It is because people over tighten the spark plugs!
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

rydholm11211
Jul 5 2012, 08:21 AM
It is because people over tighten the spark plugs!
---AND---

Anti Seize is your friend.
I use the copper based stuff for electrical parts;
Plugs,
O2 sensors,
other sensors that are grounded through thread contact,
etc.
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Nappers
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When I replaced my head gasket, I removed the intake and exhaust and had enough room to pull head off. I also left the distributor in the head. Minimal hoses to take off and each electric connector has its own plug (can't mix up). The intake and exhaust dangled just fine for me at least.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I always unbolt both manifolds and pop the head out. The intake is tougher on the 96+ models and a good set of 12MM gearwrenches gets them usually.
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Nappers
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gear wrenches are the shiznit!!!! I have the ratcheting ones.
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portagoosey
New Member
[ *  * ]
Thanks for all the info. I did leave the manifolds on and got it apart okay. It's been a long time since I've done major auto repair, do I use gasket sealer on the exhaust and intake manifolds? Also, is there a coolant drain somewhere on the block? I did order all the good parts that was suggested, super head gasket from ebay, Geo Glenn head bolts and heavy duty valve seals, the best water pump and so on. I'll take the head in when I get the valve seals and have the valves ground.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

No silicone needed on intake or exhaust gaskets. Just on the four corners of the valve cover gasket.
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Woodie
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No drain, you've got to tip it over if you want it empty.
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portagoosey
New Member
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Well the head's in getting a valve job so I'm waiting for that to put it back together. But having a hard time finding the distributor housing gasket to the rear of the head. I'm not worried about the distributor o ring but Napa or O'reilleys does'nt have a listing for it. Anyone have an idea where to get that gasket?
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socal geo garage
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metroschultz
Jul 5 2012, 09:45 AM
rydholm11211
Jul 5 2012, 08:21 AM
It is because people over tighten the spark plugs!
---AND---

Anti Seize is your friend.
I use the copper based stuff for electrical parts;
Plugs,
O2 sensors,
other sensors that are grounded through thread contact,
etc.
would that be any 1 wire sensor /DO YOU KNOW IF RED BLACK SILOCONE CAN EFFECT THESE SENSORS?
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