Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Got a misfire code. Now what?
Topic Started: Jul 3 2012, 02:39 PM (1,344 Views)
NmJ
New Member
[ *  * ]
Hey guys,

I have a 2000 suzuki swift 4cylinder m5. I had a thread going titled, "HELP!!! Don't know where to look" and y'all been great helping me out.

Symptoms:

*stalled on a left turn (once)
*smoke from exhaust upon cold starts
*puttering(?) In 1st and 2nd gear (occasionally)
*vibration at higher speeds

Surprisingly, I only had one trouble code:

*p0301- cylinder misfire

Where do I go from here? I am far from being a mechanic, but I'm willing to learn and appreciate any direction and/or instruction y'all point me to.

Also, how bad is a misfire in this cylinder? Can I still drive it while its acting like this?

Thanks for any response.
Edited by NmJ, Jul 3 2012, 02:41 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
91geoconvert
Member Avatar
Elite Member
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Ok the first thing I would do and what alot of guys preach on here is do a compression test on all of you cylinders, and while you pull your plugs out to do the test look at them see if there is alot of carbon buildup, major damage, and so on. if those two things come back fine start looking at spark plug wires get a ohm meter and do a test to see if they are conducting or not. Let us know what you get from there. :news
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
NmJ
New Member
[ *  * ]
I don't mind buying parts and replacing, so a part list would be great. Also, I don't have a parking brake and no helper for a while to do the compression test.

Can I still drive it like this?

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Johnny Mullet
Member Avatar
Fear the Mullet

NmJ
Jul 3 2012, 02:39 PM
*stalled on a left turn (once)
*smoke from exhaust upon cold starts
*puttering(?) In 1st and 2nd gear (occasionally)
*vibration at higher speeds

Surprisingly, I only had one trouble code:

*p0301- cylinder misfire



Also, how bad is a misfire in this cylinder? Can I still drive it while its acting like this?

Thanks for any response.
1) who knows
2) common issue on 1998-2001 1.3L engines. Just valve seals and no big deal.
3) P0301
4) P0301

#1 is misfiring, so get new NGK V-Power plugs and a spark plug wire set. Replace one at a time and report back.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
NmJ
New Member
[ *  * ]
Does it matter what kind of NGK vpower spark plugs I get? There seems to be more than one.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Coche Blanco
Member Avatar
Troll Certified

Copper ones are good.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Bad Bent
Member Avatar
Facetious Educated Donkey

:gp

You can check out http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?productTypeID=1&AAIA=1364576 for spark plug applications.

NGK...Traditional spark plug...BKR6ES-11 (part number)
NGK...V-power spark plug...BKR6E-11

You can check for errant sparking using a spray bottle:

Edited by Bad Bent, Jul 3 2012, 07:57 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Memphis metro


Does this engine have a coil for each plug?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


Two coils, each handles two cylinders. There's one two inch plug wire and one eight inch plug wire, that's it.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
NmJ
New Member
[ *  * ]
Wow, so it shouldn't take long to change out spark plugs, wires, and coils at all!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
NmJ
New Member
[ *  * ]
Ok, so I've sold my Bimmer and now willing to spend anywhere from $500 to $1000 to make this gem a solid, reliable vehicle for long comutes. Any suggestions on where to throw the money? I'm going to buy the spark plugs and wires this weekend.

Any response is greatly appreciated!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
NmJ
New Member
[ *  * ]
^^^Bump. It's saturday, any suggestions on what to replace?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
clarkdw


I do a long commute as well and before I started using my 94 hatch for the drive I did the following.

Plugs
Wires
Cap and Rotor (not for you) :D
Oil and filter (one short interval with cheaper dino oil, then on to 5W-30 synthetic and Wix 51515 oversize oil filter)
Rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes with new hardware kit
Front brake pads (disks are like new)
Completely flush out all old brake fluid with new. (A hand operated vac pump kit with a bottle to do brake bleeding is worth it's weight in gold)
Get trans hot and change out fluid for new auto trans fluid for another very short change interval, then change it to Synchromesh fluid.
New rear wheel bearings bought from a bearing supplier, not an auto supply. (much cheaper)
New to me tires. Make sure they are top notch tires balanced properly on a dynamic balancer.
Rad flush and new antifreeze.
My vac hoses and rad/heater hoses were excellent so not changed but where I live the hoses live a long and happy life. You may want to renew all of them.
New fuel filter

There may be more that I am forgetting at the moment but that pretty much covers it. I bought the car for $700. With all the additions, e-testing, safety inspection and plates my total investment was $1300. I have now put about 20k miles on it and it has never let me down.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Bad Bent
Member Avatar
Facetious Educated Donkey

:gp

Might upgrade some with the wires from http://www.robietherobot.com/metro3cylWires
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
NmJ
New Member
[ *  * ]
I thought i'd update my posting.

I changes spark plugs, air filter, and pcv valve and the car now idles smooth, no puttering, and no vibrations. The engine light went away for 3 days then returned.

I've been too lazy to have the codes pulled agains and since the car runs so smooth I don't think I will any time soon.

I didn't change spark plug wires because one parts store quoted me $100 and another quoted $20, too much of a price difference so I didn't get them. Do u think not changing the wires brought back the code? Car runs really smooth now, but the light bothers me.

Thanks.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply