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| Cam/Crank seals; getting ready to replace these | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 18 2012, 02:54 AM (5,913 Views) | |
| 3220onr | Jul 18 2012, 02:54 AM Post #1 |
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Getting ready to tear apart the metro and replace the cam and crank seals. Going to replace all the belts and water pump as well. Yesterday I was reading a post of a guy that did the exact same thing and posted photos as well. Can someone please guide me back to that posting. I have all the tools I need. I DO NOT have a repair manual but it seems pretty simple. Have not seen anyone mention special tools for this. Thoughts? Also, the a/c on the metro I bought was not operated for a number of years. I turned it on and it blows hot air. I put in a can of re-charge and it blows cold. So, i decide to drive it a little to circulate everything to see if it will get even cooler. Went about 1/2 mile and the water pump and alternator belt shredded. It had to get under the a/c belt as well. What a mess. I think the belt just let go after having oil leaked on it for who knows how long. Not because of the load from the a/c running. I've had the car for 2 1/2 weeks and am trying to do damage control with a major tune up and oil leak fixing. So far so good. I had just ordered all the parts for this less than 3 hours earlier! I wish I could find my prior postings. Need help with that as well. |
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| Nappers | Jul 18 2012, 04:18 AM Post #2 |
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the Cam/Crank seals are easy. Pull them out and put them in with a socket or seal installer. I used my Hot water heater element socket, it was perfect. |
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| Deleted User | Jul 18 2012, 05:15 AM Post #3 |
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Welcome. You didn't say if you have a 3 cylinder or a 4 cylinder. Everything is easier on the front of a 3 cylinder. More room to work. Ahhhhh . . . . If it's not broke, don't fix it. And, spend a few bucks and get a Factory Service Manual on eBay. It's well worth the money. Search "1997 Geo Metro Service Manual". There will be several. Finding your previous postings. Click on your name. That will take you to your profile page. Hover the mouse over "Profile Options". Look for "Your Topics", or "Your Posts". |
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| Memphis metro | Jul 18 2012, 08:01 AM Post #4 |
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Be sure to torque the crank gear bolt back to proper specs! |
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| 3220onr | Jul 19 2012, 12:46 AM Post #5 |
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Well I worked night shift last night and after i got up this afternoon the sky decided to open up finally. Could not get to the prep work on the speed-buggy but I did head to town and picked up all the parts. crank/cam seals (they look identical), water pump, and all new belts. I also picked up a can of electrical component cleaner for the alternator and starter. I'll keep everyone posted on progress however slight. What are the torque speck for the gear nuts? |
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| datona paul | Jul 19 2012, 12:53 AM Post #6 |
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The camshaft timing bolt is 60Nm/ 44lb.ft. Crankshaft timing belt gear bolt is 110Nm/ 81lb.ft.
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| 3220onr | Jul 19 2012, 01:52 AM Post #7 |
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Sweet! I can put my new torque wrench to work finally! |
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| HelterSkelter | Jul 19 2012, 02:44 AM Post #8 |
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#1 Pizza Driver
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would you guys recommend also thread locking the crank bolt? |
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| snowfish | Jul 19 2012, 09:07 AM Post #9 |
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Basic GearHead
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LocTite Blue removable, or equivalent, on both crank and cam sprocket bolts.
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| jacques kruseo | Jul 19 2012, 10:49 AM Post #10 |
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Elite Member
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I have a little oil leaking[3 cyl xfi] from the crank seal, as far I have traced it. Removed the timing belt cover, and it seams to be oil from a very lite spray from somewhere around the lower timing belt gear, presumably the crank seal. My question, should you do the crank and cam seal together for any reason? Cam isn't leaking, so probably don't mess with it. |
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| snowfish | Jul 19 2012, 11:24 AM Post #11 |
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Basic GearHead
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The timing belt has to come off anyway. One more bolt and the cam sprocket is off. They're the same seal with same procedure to remove/install. New timing belt & tensioner, is advisable, since the old one has been oil soaked. In my book, it makes sense to do it all, since you're down there. Then you shouldn't have to be down there again for a long time
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| jacques kruseo | Jul 19 2012, 02:27 PM Post #12 |
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Got it. Just to understand, why do the tensioner? I have new belts on it all around, before I found the oil leak. I cleaned up the side of the engine before putting it back together, and the tensioner looked good. Just wondering why it would need replacing. Maybe the spring wears over time. Just wondering, thanks. |
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| snowfish | Jul 19 2012, 04:40 PM Post #13 |
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Basic GearHead
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It can look good, but the bearing could be ready to go. Then you're back down there again. The spring doesn't wear out. It's there to adjust the tension before you lock it down. Doing the full kit ensures everything is the same age reference point. Shouldn't have to think about it, again, for another 60k miles.
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| jacques kruseo | Jul 19 2012, 05:58 PM Post #14 |
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OK, good point. Since it's apart, better to say it's 'all' done on this date. Then you know all those miles later what's been replaced if another problems shows up. Time to check Autozone again! thanks |
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| 3220onr | Jul 21 2012, 12:28 PM Post #15 |
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Started on the speedbuggy last night. Can already see a problem coming, there is not enough room to get a socket and wrench inside the crank pulley to romove the bolts. Not enough room between the side wall and pulley. So, while sleeping on it, I have thought that lifting the engine would help. What should I watch out for when lifting and what do I need to loosen to accomplish this? Not alot of room on the low end witht the A/C there. |
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One more bolt and the cam sprocket is off.
They're the same seal with same procedure to remove/install.
it makes sense to do it all, since you're down there.

9:40 AM Jul 11