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Cam/Crank seals; getting ready to replace these
Topic Started: Jul 18 2012, 02:54 AM (5,917 Views)
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3220onr
Jul 21 2012, 12:28 PM
Started on the speedbuggy last night. Can already see a problem coming, there is not enough room to get a socket and wrench inside the crank pulley to romove the bolts. Not enough room between the side wall and pulley. So, while sleeping on it, I have thought that lifting the engine would help. What should I watch out for when lifting and what do I need to loosen to accomplish this? Not alot of room on the low end witht the A/C there.
I use a 1/4" drive ratchet and a medium length socket. It works well.

On a 4 cylinder, you'll have to drop the engine a bit to get the pulley off. Loosen the 2 bolts that hold the mount from the engine to the chassis. Lower it gently with a floor jack.
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91 ragtop
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Since you are changing the crank seal too you'll need to get the 17mm bolt out of the end of the crank. I usually drop the egine till I have a straight shot with the impact wrench.

Ken....
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clarkdw


http://geometroforum.com/topic/4753705/1/
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3220onr


Update on the speed-buggy...

Removed the timing cover, water pump pulley, crank pulley, all belts and timing belt tensioner. Cleaned up most of the oil and grime. Still not quite sure where the oil leak is coming from. The cam seal is clean and dry, no suspicion of leakage at all there. The crank seal I have not seen yet. While trying to figure out how to get the cam and crank timing gears off I replaced the water pump. Easier than it looked.
My dilemma right now is what is the best way to hold the gears in place to get the 17mm bolts out. I tried using the old timing belt wrapped around the cam gear and then cinching it down but still could not get a good purchase on the gear to break the bolt loose. The crank gear in my opinion would be even harder. Can not get an impact on the cam bolt. AC pipe in the way. Any tips???
I might try and notch the support for the crank bolt unless someone else has another idea.
Thanks for the help so far. This forum is priceless!
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Memphis metro


There is a hole in the bellhousing underneath the car you can stick a punch in to secure the flywheel while someone with a breaker bar can loosen the crank bolt.
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3220onr


Very nice! How about the cam gear?
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Memphis metro


Remove the cam cover and the cam has a hole in it you can stick a punch in and foul the cam.
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3220onr


Update on the spedbuggy.....
Crank seal replaced this afternoon! The new breaker bar paid for itself in about 30 seconds. As far as the cam seal? Not yet. It shows no sign of leakasge so I might by pass it.

The comment about the cam cover... is that the plate behind the cam gear?

I am questioning where the oil leak is now. The crank seal seemed to be in good shape and no cracks or oil seepage was noted. I cleaned around the entire oil pan and the sensor right underneatht the crank timing gear. Not sure what sensor this is yet.

Where else on the front of these engines can oil possibly leak? This project is starting to take too long. I keep finding other little things that irritate me. (OCD)
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Memphis metro


You might call the cam cover a valve cover. Removing it gives you access to the cam. Four cap nuts hold it on but the washers under the cap nuts are sometimes rather difficult to remove. Both crank and cam seals are the main source of oil leaks on that side of the engine. That sensor would be your crank sensor.
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3220onr


I cleaned the crank sensor area thouroughly so if it is leaking there I will see it after everything is back to running. I tried to pull the dipstick tube out but no joy. Should it just pull straight up and out? it does twist a little.

On another note...the new crank seal came with to different o-rings and timing cover gaskets. What are the o-rings for?
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Memphis metro


Did you remove the bolt securing the dipstick tube? If so it should pull straight out. Not sure about your orings. I never put the timing covers back on.
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PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect
Frame Fixer

First as already said...replace both crank and cam seals...and o rings are for dipstick tube and oil pick up tube..
Edited by PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect, Jul 23 2012, 11:36 PM.
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3220onr


I'll be a little more persuasive with the dipstick tube to see if it comes out. I did notice that it looks almost kinked at the bottom about an inch above where it seats in the block. I guess dented is a better term. When I get it out I'll clean as best I can and re-install with new o-ring. Is an RTV coating on the base advisable?
Going to pull the alternater while waiting on the timing tensioner to come in. Its pretty messy with the oil and belt dust. Hope the electronics spray cleaner does the job. Not in the mood to replace it with a new one. I have spent too much $$$ as it is on this project.
As always keep the advice and criticism/comments coming, I have thick skin. Thanks

USN-DBG
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Sounds like you are doing well. :thumb

I would just let the dip stick o-ring do it's job. I wonder if the dent/kink is where the leak is. :hmm

I seem to recall the alternator coming out on the dip stick side of the engine after removing the adjusting bracket. :whistle

If you do remove the valve cover the metal/rubber washers under the cap nut will come off easier if you unscrew them. Seriously. See pic: How To: Camshaft Swap.
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3220onr


Pulled the dipstick tube out this afternoon...just like was discussed...used the man hands and it popped right out. Cleaned the tube inside and out, inspected for cracks and found none. The suspected dent looks factory to me. Put on new o-ring and re-installed. Its a lot tighter now. If the oil leak was coming from there hopefully it was fixed with the cleaning and o-ring.
I also removed the alternator and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. It was pretty bad. Used two cans of electrical component cleaner. It is still dirty on the inside but spins freely. My luck will be that it will grenade itself because its clean! Other than that just continued to clean all the road grime, oil and 150,000 miles of build-up from the underside of the engine and tranny. The more I learn about these little cars the more I know I made a good purchase with this car. There is absolutely zero rust or corrosion on this car. It just needed a lot of preventive maintenance done and TLC. I even found the original window sticker. More to come when the last of the parts come in.
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