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| Error code 14, replaced coolant temp sensor, now it's code 15...; Wiring looks good, but a new code came on after 30 minutes | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 18 2012, 11:32 AM (1,787 Views) | |
| jacques kruseo | Jul 18 2012, 11:32 AM Post #1 |
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Elite Member
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I have a 1994 XFI that was giving me an error code 14. I read that most likely that is the coolant temp sensor, located just under the air filter pan. I just replaced it this morning, after noticing that the sensor was broke in half. Half of it came out in the wiring harness, and the other half was still screwed in place. The wiring connection looked clean, so I put the new sensor right back in. Car started up from a cold start better than it ever has! After running about 30 minutes, I now got a new "check engine" light on. Error code 15. Temperature is reading good as far as I can tell. I wondering why originally I was only getting the 1 error code, 14, and not both. Any idea on what I should look into? Maybe trace the wiring back and see if there's any damage or breaks? Thanks in advance! |
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| Memphis metro | Jul 18 2012, 11:48 AM Post #2 |
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Is the engine tempature running normal? The diagnostic procedure is real simple for code 15. Since you have replaced the sensor this is whats left. Check the gray/white wire and see if it is shorted to ground somewhere. Rubbing up against something with insualation rubbed off. If no short found. Replace the ecm. I dont say this, the diagnostic chart says this. I would disconnect the battery for ten seconds and reconnect it and drive it and see if any codes come back is what I would do. If they do then proceed on to diagnose the problem. |
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| clarkdw | Jul 18 2012, 11:48 AM Post #3 |
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Reset the code. Disconnect the connector and run the engine for one minute. Check whether it is code 14 or 15 that is now set. If it is code 14 you got a bad ECT sensor. If it is code 15 then check for a short to ground in the grey/white wire. That is from the Factory service Manual. BR is a faster typist than me. He posted while I typed.
Edited by clarkdw, Jul 18 2012, 11:49 AM.
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| Deleted User | Jul 18 2012, 12:13 PM Post #4 |
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Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECM. See if it comes back. |
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| jacques kruseo | Jul 18 2012, 01:17 PM Post #5 |
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Elite Member
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Thank you. I'll check it later. I'm thinking it's in the wires. Some look new, but others look rough in my little car. Not to sound stupid, but I don't know what the ECM is? Is that the Computer Module? If so, where is that located just for my own knowledge? t think it's up above the fuse panel under the dash, up in there pretty far. And since it's an XFI, wouldn't have I have to replace it with a matching XFI computer module? Just not anything I've worked around yet. Thanks again. I'll check all the wiring first. I remember that gets rapped up into the wiring harness. How far into the tape and cable rap do you think I'd have to look? Of course it's different for everyone, but have any of you had to peal back the rapping pretty far? I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the help and direction. I can't believe how strong the start up is now with the new sensor. I had to pump the gas and feather the pedal for like 5 minutes on every cold start up. That new sensor in, and it starts right up with no help. Can't believe that like piece fixed all that! |
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| jacques kruseo | Jul 18 2012, 04:31 PM Post #6 |
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Elite Member
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Update. So I just got back from lunch. I pulled the battery cable for about 1 minute, started back up fine, and no error code. Just drove about 5 minutes, and no code now. Maybe it just needed an additional reset to clear it. Or maybe a wire is just temperamental and not acting up. The drive home is about an hour, so I'll see if it acts up later after work. Thanks again for the help and direction. |
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| Bad Bent | Jul 18 2012, 05:06 PM Post #7 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Maybe after the fact but here is an FSM link: eBay search. I see one starting at $34.56. The FSM does describe the Code 14 test and says that if Code 15 appears that it is a faulty coolant sensor connection or sensor. And if you get Code 15 and during the testing get Code 14 then it's the sensor. BUT do the testing first if the problem comes back. |
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| jacques kruseo | Jul 19 2012, 10:39 AM Post #8 |
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Thanks. I just got a manual from eBay. I'm going to dig in and see what steps are needed. On the same page, now since I have a new sensor in the car, does it normally take about 3-5 minutes for the temperature to read somewhere in the middle of the gauge? Before, it would take about 15 minutes, but that was with an old broken sensor in there. I'm just not sure if that is correct for how long it takes, or if that is showing a temperature that is higher, and quicker than it would normally read. On average, how long does it take everyone's gauge to register a "normal" temp from driving. That is, from a cold start up. I can only say right now that the sensor fixed the rough idol and pedal feathering I had to do prior. Normal start up and warm up was about 10-15 minutes, but that sensor corrected the need to pump the pedal right at start up. Also, it idols strong right upon start up to. That just made me so happy, but now I don't want to cause damage if a temperature issue arises and overheats. Thanks. I'm going to do the diag from the manual and see where it leads. Likely, the cable is bad somewhere. I would say the sensor being brand new "should" be OK, but I'm going to follow the manual like you said and go from there. If you can let me know how your temp reads I'd appreciate it. Just want to know if that 3-5 minutes is normal. |
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| econoboxer | Jul 30 2012, 03:59 PM Post #9 |
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I am the one on the left.
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this time of year yes. Winter will take a little longer. I think my car is warm before I even get out of my neighborhood this time of year. |
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| Bad Bent | Jul 31 2012, 04:34 PM Post #10 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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The Wife's '96 Geo will warm up quickly, probably the 3-5 minute range after maybe 30 seconds of high idle. My 1991 takes longer, maybe 2.5 miles, 7 minutes. |
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