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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 23 2012, 10:36 AM (807 Views) | |
| MaEsTRO | Jul 23 2012, 10:36 AM Post #1 |
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I was driving my 91 vert yesterday, and I was just starting to notice a little knocking under heavy acceleration that I hadn't heard before, and then the car completely died. There is no spark coming out of the coil. The coil shows some resistance on the low side and very little on the high side. I don't have my manual so I can't check what the specs are supposed to be. The timing belt is there and looks to be tight and in good shape, so I don't think it's that. Any suggestions? Thanks |
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| idmetro | Jul 23 2012, 11:12 AM Post #2 |
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You'll need a second person (or a remote starter) to help but I suspect the teeth have been stripped off your timing belt. If you remove the oil cap and shine a light down inside the valve cover while cranking the engine (car in neutral) you should see the camshaft turning. If not, then you've found your culprit. Good Luck! |
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| idmetro | Jul 23 2012, 11:14 AM Post #3 |
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Edited by idmetro, Jul 23 2012, 11:14 AM.
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| Bad Bent | Jul 23 2012, 12:16 PM Post #4 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Also check your fuse box on the driver's side. The yellow one "Generator to Battery Circuit (60 Amp)" could have blown.
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| MaEsTRO | Jul 23 2012, 04:32 PM Post #5 |
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The timing belt looks good. I had the dist cap off and could see the rotor turning. I put starter fluid in the throttle and it didn't even try to start. The fuel pump runs, and it has a full tank. It's not fuel. It's not compression. It doesn't appear to be timing. Again, there is no spark coming from the coil. I was hoping for some specs to check on the coil with my multimeter, but I don't have my manual handy. The fuses in the engine compartment are all good, and the fuses under the dash are all good. Thanks. Edited by MaEsTRO, Jul 23 2012, 04:33 PM.
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| Foster | Jul 23 2012, 04:58 PM Post #6 |
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This may be off the wall, but check the two grounding wires at back of the throttle body. make sure the bolts are tight. I had a similar problem, everything looked tight but I found one of the bolts was stripped and not holding the ground wire tight against the TB. I just moved the wire the the other grounding bolt. |
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| MaEsTRO | Jul 23 2012, 06:10 PM Post #7 |
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OK, I checked a bunch of stuff, and I'm getting 9.25 volts to the coil with the ignition switch on. Still no spark - so as I'm guessing, I'm guessing it's the coil? |
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| Memphis metro | Jul 23 2012, 06:19 PM Post #8 |
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How are you verifying you have no spark? Knocking is more associated with running out of fuel than spark. Usually if one starts to run out of fuel it will knock just before it dies. |
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| MaEsTRO | Jul 23 2012, 06:38 PM Post #9 |
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I pull the coil wire from the distributor and put a screwdriver in it and turn the engine over. No spark. The tank if full. I was driving along and only heard a faint pinging under heavy acceleration. When I backed off it ran normally. No loss of power with the ping - just a faint noise. I've put starting fluid in the throttle and it doesn't even try to fire - because there is no spark. I know what running out of fuel feels like, and it was nothing like that. It just plain died, and nothing since then. It cranks over, but it doesn't try to fire. I've had another metro that would for no apparent reason blow the ignition fuse, and I got used to just changing that out when it happened, but this car hasn't blown that fuse, and I've changed it out anyway. Edited by MaEsTRO, Jul 23 2012, 06:42 PM.
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| Memphis metro | Jul 23 2012, 06:45 PM Post #10 |
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Put the coil wire back on and pull out a spark plug and lay it on the engine and see if you see a spark there. As for the coil you could always pull it off and check it with a ohm meter and compare the readings to a new one at the parts store. There should be battery voltage at the coil positive terminal of the coil. You didnt by chance notice the check engine light before it died did you? I remember metroshultz having a ignition issue and his died on the interstate. Dont recall what happend but it might be worth a look to pull the distributor cap and inspect real well under there and make sure nothing is going on with the cam sensor or signal rotor in the distributor. Here it is, check out post 10 in this thread, http://geometroforum.com/topic/4649022/1/ |
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| MaEsTRO | Jul 23 2012, 07:06 PM Post #11 |
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OK. I hooked the coil back up and pulled a plug. The plugs look good - no fouling. Laid on the block, the plug does not fire. I just thought of something. I've been having problems with a slow leak and I fill the tire with a lighter powered compressor. The ignition has to be on for the lighter outlet to work. Could I have done damage to the coil by doing this? I can't test my coil against one in the store because the store doesn't have one. I have to pay for a coil before they'll order one in, and then I'm stuck with it because they don't accept returns on electrical parts. That's why I'm hoping someone has a manual handy so I can find out the specs that my coil should be reading at. Thanks |
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| MaEsTRO | Jul 23 2012, 07:14 PM Post #12 |
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I had the cap off, and the rotor looked old and starting to burn, and the cap contacts as well, so, since I had a rotor and cap handy, I replaced those, but everything else inside looks all shiny and nice - nothing like the pix in that other post. Thanks |
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| Memphis metro | Jul 23 2012, 07:55 PM Post #13 |
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Coil resistance specs are, Primary 1.35-1.65 secondary 22100-29900 |
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| Memphis metro | Jul 23 2012, 08:21 PM Post #14 |
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Turn the switch on and see if you have voltage on the negative side of the coil as well. |
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| MaEsTRO | Jul 23 2012, 09:10 PM Post #15 |
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Thanks for the specs. It looks like my secondary is way off. Looks like I need a coil. Thanks |
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9:41 AM Jul 11