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| Just got 3tech head back, any advice? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 26 2012, 10:28 PM (1,345 Views) | |
| jvartan64 | Jul 26 2012, 10:28 PM Post #1 |
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I finally got my head, cam and sprocket back from 3tech. I got the +10 econo package for my 3 cylinder manual 97 metro. I did not rebuild the lower end, but I was wondering if there is anything else I need to do before I put the head on. I have the dovorak no blow head coming in and as soon as Geo Glenn gets back to me I will hopefully be getting some head bolts from him. What am I missing? |
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| starscream5000 | Jul 26 2012, 10:31 PM Post #2 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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A bottom end rebuild. |
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| 3tech | Jul 26 2012, 11:02 PM Post #3 |
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Why would you use those? I sell the better ones for $20 with a head pkg. |
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| jvartan64 | Jul 27 2012, 04:46 PM Post #4 |
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| 3tech | Jul 27 2012, 07:11 PM Post #5 |
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Those are your initials. I do so many heads that I need a way to knows who's is who's. |
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| t3ragtop | Jul 27 2012, 07:26 PM Post #6 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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and here i thought those heads you send me were stamped "rc" for "race configuration."
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| Johnny Mullet | Jul 27 2012, 07:30 PM Post #7 |
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Fear the Mullet
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I would suggest at minimum, a hone and ring job before putting that head on. |
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| addinquir | Jul 28 2012, 11:49 AM Post #8 |
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94 XFI rebuild for oxygen/ hydrogen fuel: I'm still waiting for my SS intake valves from 3tech. It's been almost 2 months. There is nothing I can do because nobody else can get SS intake valves other than 3 tech. Mike at 3tech has been trying to get some idea from his supplier as to when they will come in. They will not give him an answer. We are not at the top of the priority list with his supplier. SS intake valves are not a popular item and are a very, very rare find as compared to SS exhaust valves which can be derived from a number of sources. I can't assemble the head till I get those SS intake valves. This engine will be burning hydrogen which is much hotter than gasoline and so I am having the combustion chamber and pistons ceramic coated to keep the heat in the combustion chamber and air within instead of the heat conducting into the metal of the engine. This will prevent the engine from melting and maintain a high rate of heat for power. I did the ceramic coating for my farm tractor and now I beat the hell out of the tractor without overheating or worries that I'm going to burn it up. I will never rebuild another engine without ceramic coating first. Getting ready to do a second rebuild on another Geo 1.0. But I'm worried about parts availability. Also, I'm ordering from 3tech SS intake valves, bronze/magnesium valve guides, high strength head bolts, and valve stem seals. Can't get those till the whole package is complete which includes the SS intake valves. The head can't be ceramic coated till I send them the SS intake and exhaust valves. Those get coated on top and the exhaust especially gets coated along the neck of the valve. Very frustrating but there is nothing that I can do but wait and wait and wait. My students and a whole lot of folks who are waiting to see the engine run keep asking me .......wazzzzz up? Nothing to say. Wish me luck. Mark
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| econoboxer | Jul 28 2012, 01:20 PM Post #9 |
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I am the one on the left.
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I'm with Johnny on this. the new head will hold so much better than your old one. Your bottom end is worn and will rapidly fail usually due to rings. You can pull your bottom end apart and replace rings only so long as your bearings are still in good condition. The bottom ends on these metros are tight- and bearings last a LONG time- but the rings- you need to hone and re-ring. If you have the honing tool, the rings are under $30.00 on e-bay. If you don't have one, harbor freight has ring compressors, and autozone may have them as part of their loan a tool program. You will be so glad you didn't skimp if you do this, otherwise, expect to have bottom end problems shortly. just my .02 worth. |
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| Deleted User | Jul 28 2012, 09:05 PM Post #10 |
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These are good. They gap up 0.003" tighter than NPR, and 0.006" tighter than Perfect Circle. http://www.ebay.com/itm/250743961619?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 While you're in there, check your rod bearing clearances with Plasti-Gage. P/N SPGR-1. And, make sure your oil pressure relief valve in your oil pump is not full of http://geometroforum.com/topic/4623367/1/ |
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| jvartan64 | Jul 30 2012, 11:40 PM Post #11 |
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I am definitely going to go ahead and do the bottom end, at least the honing and new rings. We are going to drop the block on saturday morning. The guy helping me knows the machine shop owner and said he would hone the cylinders for $90, which seems more than reasonable. The guy I bought the car from on ebay said he would pay for a "rebuild kit" because the car did not run as promised, so other than the obvious piston and rings what else do I need? I have the head gasket and head bolts already, what else will I need? Any brands people have had good/bad experiences with? |
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| Deleted User | Jul 31 2012, 02:16 AM Post #12 |
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Well, my machine shop will bore 3 cylinders oversize for $60. So, for $90 for just a hone job, he should A "rebuild kit" is opening a can of worms. Many of the kits that are commercially available are of inferior dimensions. Replacing OEM pistons with those from a kit without weighing them, and inspecting them for proper dimension is part of the recipie for disaster. The same goes for the main and rod bearings. From my experience, the bearings that are available in the aftermarket world, including top name brands, are much thinner than required to produce clearances that are within the limits expected by the Factory Service Manual. I would suggest that you spend some time studying the FSM requirements for dimensions, limits, and clearances. Then, measure your engine to see what needs to be repaired. Random replacement of parts without this knowledge is not advisable. I took apart an engine last week where the previous owner had installed a "kit". The bearing clearances were so loose, that I could see the highly polished wear marks where the power strokes of the engine was rattling the crankshaft in the block and rods. Most anything you put together will run. What gets assembled properly will run for a very long time. Don't forget to use really good engine oil when it's done. Glenn |
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| econoboxer | Aug 2 2012, 10:18 AM Post #13 |
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I am the one on the left.
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But whatever you do- don't break it in on Synthetic oil. You need conventional dino oil for the initial start up and break in. Just Sayin. |
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| 944door | Aug 2 2012, 10:24 AM Post #14 |
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ROFL!!!!!!! |
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| addinquir | Aug 2 2012, 03:25 PM Post #15 |
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Hi Mike, I know you are really busy, but can you take a look at your email? I need a response on my parts ASAP. Thanks, Mark |
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9:40 AM Jul 11