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Rebuild questions (many)!; Total newb trying to make my G10 run again.
Topic Started: Jul 28 2012, 09:31 PM (591 Views)
killerofangels
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So I have a '95 Metro with a G10. I went through rebuilding it a few months back and made it smoke horribly. :shake Now I'm rebuilding it again and want to make sure EVERYTHING is perfect this time. My big problem is not getting the engine running but the thick cloud of oil coming from the exhaust. Here's a few questions I have - feel free to be over-thorough in explaining things as this is the first engine I've ever worked on. Thanks.

1. I installed an oil pan gasket. It originally had only instant gasket on there and the new gasket is quite thick. I don't think it causes issues with sensors on the '95 model but do I really need this gasket or should I just slap some Permarex on there again?

2. How clean do I need the head gasket surface to be. I scraped both sides with a fresh razor but I can still see where the old gasket was. Some of the pictures on the forum look like the mating surface has been machined by how shiny it is. Should I use some kind of fine sandpaper or a roloc disc on it?

3. What's up with little oil passage holes on the head gasket? I'm buying a new gasket and some have larger oil passage holes. Is there any harm in just getting the one with the larger holes? I threw out the factory Suzuki gasket before checking which ones it had.

4. How do I seat the valve stem seals? I bought the DNJ (Domestic-N-Japanese) brand valve stem seals and I can't feel if they've seated correctly. I mean, if I push any harder with my finger I may damage the little springs on them. Is there a test I can perform to see if they're seated all the way. This is probably my biggest concern because of the amount of oil I'm losing. I would think if the seals aren't seated, the valve stems are lifting them right off the guides when the engine runs and oil is pouring through.

5. It seems it's advisable to replace the cylinder head bolts or risk them breaking. Do I need to use special torque-to-yeild bolts or can I just use strong standard bolts? I have a grade 10.9 and 12.9 bolts in the correct size - do standard bolts damage the block when torqued down or something? Any special type of washers I should use?

6. How can I measure the flatness of the cylinder head? I may not have followed the torque pattern correctly the first time and I want to make sure I didn't warp the head.

7. Do I need to order some valve cover grommets or can standard washers be used? I mean, I don't know how good of a seal it needs but the standard washers seem to cover it well enough, right?

I've also re-ringed the pistons and honed the cylinder walls with a flex-hone. Compression was a little low before but nowhere near bad enough for the amount of oil I was losing. I have a few more questions like how do I know when to replace the connecting rod bearings (pictures, anyone?) but I think my main concern this time is getting it to stop smoking that oil! If you guys have any other advice for things to check while the engine's apart, I would appreciate that too. Thanks. :thumb
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Memphis metro


I prefer a pan gasket myself with any that does not have a crank sensor. I have seen several oil pans that were bent up and would not seal with rtv but would with a gasket. I hate oil leaks. As for the valve seals, take your finger and run a little oil around the guide tit before you push it on with your finger. For the valve cover grommets, unless I get a gasket set that has them inluded, I set my cam cover on and dab rtv around the stud and put a washer on it and thats it. No leaks. You want your mating surfaces of the block and head clean, I use a soft wire brush lightly, chucked in a grinder. Works for me. For checking for warpage follow shultz here in post 35,

http://geometroforum.com/topic/4851610/3/

Heres mine before and after cleaning.

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