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| problem after problem after problem; Still can't get my cam back in | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 29 2012, 02:55 PM (847 Views) | |
| texan821 | Jul 29 2012, 02:55 PM Post #1 |
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I am no longer a member
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I'll spare everyone the four letter words and just get straight to my problem. Forgive me if I do not use the correct jargon, I've attached pictures to fill in the gaps I've missed with my word selection. Ok, so I need 96 in lbs of torque on the pieces that hold the camshaft down. There are six total bolts, four of which are longer so that the valve cover can be attached. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about: ![]() Now, here's the issue...I've got deep sockets that are not long enough. Why? ![]() Are there extra-deep sockets I need to buy? I'm I wrong on where I'm supposed to put the 96 in lbs of torque at? Is there such a thing as a crescent torque wrench I need to get? |
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| 91 ragtop | Jul 29 2012, 03:18 PM Post #2 |
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Snap-On makes a socket that will reach enough to get the ratchet on it but it only fits part way into the socket. I lost mine so I've been tightening them up with a box end wrench. Don't gorget to put a little rtv on the outside of # 1 and 3 caps where they seat against the head so the oil doesn't leak out the ends. Ken....... Edited by 91 ragtop, Jul 29 2012, 03:19 PM.
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| snowfish | Jul 29 2012, 03:20 PM Post #3 |
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Basic GearHead
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I use 1/2" drive impact sockets, with adapters to bring it down to 1/4" drive. Another way is by feel. Slowly bring the fasteners up to torque, using a wrench on the long ones. Hold the torque wrench at the same distance as the regular wrench. When you get a click, on the torque wrench, your mind will remember the force needed for the regular wrench. You'll be really close to dead on. Many times I've locked the torque wrench in a vice to test the click force. Then move on to the fastener with a regular wrench.
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| lwgm | Jul 29 2012, 03:25 PM Post #4 |
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New Member
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Buy a cheap extension at the parts store or harbor freight. Then drill a hole in the end of it and your good to go. |
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| Bad Bent | Jul 29 2012, 03:40 PM Post #5 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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I did mine about the same way as snowfish. Not having a socket long enough, the important thing is that the torque be equal for all bolts. I tightened them finger tight and even. I torqued them in 2 or 3 steps and counted the rotations. So I torqued the middle two and then the outer 4 to equal feel and rotation with a box end wrench. Since 96 inch-pounds is the torque (8 foot-pounds) it could be done at say 4,6,8 f.p. if you don't have a torque wrench that is graduated in inch-pounds. Be patient and do it gently.
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| poorman1 | Jul 29 2012, 05:51 PM Post #6 |
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Double nut the stud and use a standard socket |
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| Memphis metro | Jul 29 2012, 05:55 PM Post #7 |
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To do this, screw one nut on about half a inch down and then screw the other nut down to the first one. Hold the first one with a wrench and tighten the second nut against the first one. Works well. I use this to remove studs from waterpumps. |
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| 91 ragtop | Jul 29 2012, 09:03 PM Post #8 |
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That's a great idea poorman1. Ken.... |
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| starscream5000 | Jul 29 2012, 09:09 PM Post #9 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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You can double nut it and you may also be able to seat the deep well socket on the nut with no wrench on it, then put the wrench on top of the socket. It will not go in all the way, but it should still go in enough to be able to torque it down... I just went out and checked to see if this works and it does using my high quality Stanley deep well sockets
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| Memphis metro | Jul 29 2012, 09:24 PM Post #10 |
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Heres a video double nutting a waterpump stud. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHaTEYyv8uk |
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9:41 AM Jul 11