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| Update on 1994 Metro Engine Swap - question about oil pump; Engine swap is going as planned - just waiting on some parts. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 31 2012, 11:20 AM (743 Views) | |
| cwatkin | Jul 31 2012, 11:20 AM Post #1 |
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The engine swap between the two 1994 Geo Metros I discussed earlier is going pretty well. I am still waiting on some parts and can't wait to get this car going. Just about every seal and gasket on the good motor was leaking, likely due to the faulty PCV valve which has also been replaced. As of now, the rear main seal and seal housing gasket have been replaced. The valve cover has been removed and the gasket cleaned and re-gooped with RTV. The oil pump gasket and front crank seal (came in package with oil pump seal) have been replaced. The oil pan has been removed and re-gooped with RTV. The water pump was also replaced for good measure while the engine was out. This water pump appears to be just about shot as the shaft spins freely so I am glad I went ahead and did this. The water pump on the good engine still has resistance so it is going to go in my spare parts bucket of extra belts/hoses to get me home or to the nearest parts store. I had to special order the new water pump as none of the parts stores in town had them so keeping an extra is important. I am now waiting on my timing belt kit which should be here tomorrow. This includes the belt, tensioner, as well as cam and crank seals. I will go ahead and keep the old belt and tensioner as a spare as the timing belt is definitely something that could be changed on the side of the road. I will also have an extra crank seal as I went ahead and used the one that came with the oil pump gasket. Once I have this all back together and timed, what do I need to do about the oil pump? How is the I am sure it is dry at this point since I had it completely removed and cleaned out the galleries, etc. Should I just disconnect the distributor wire from the coil and crank the engine for a while? I also plan to do another motor flush using Marvel Mystery Oil and change the oil immediately after letting it idle for 30 minutes or so. The internals don't look too dirty and it looks like someone actually did change the oil on this car but always like to do this as I figure it will get the rings good and clean, etc. I also plan to switch to full synthetic after doing this flush with cheap oil. I am also going to do some welding and rust prevention on the right side frame horn that has a couple rust holes. The neighbor kid came down and did some welding for me but I want to touch up a couple locations. I have ordered a small flux-core welder similar to what he used from Harbor Freight for $100. He used a Hobart which was slightly smaller than the unit I am getting so I hope this will be OK. The reviews of this unit looked ok and I only plan to do light duty welding anyway. I want to also weld this frame horn before putting the engine back in and give it a good coating of rust prevention paint/undercoating. I undid the outer clip on the tie rod boot and pushed it in/cranked the steering wheel all the way over, which got the boot out of the immediate welding area. I also plan to make a shield to protect the boot from heat/sparks. I will let everyone know once it is back together and running. Conor |
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| Deleted User | Jul 31 2012, 11:33 AM Post #2 |
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Hey, Connor, Gooping RTV and valve cover gaskets do not go so well together. If you get any RTV in the vent passage between the camshaft seal and the inside of the head, the seal will leak a lot. If all else fails, just make sure the oil pump's pressure regulator is clean and the plunger is sliding easily. There is a very small circlip on the bottom of the oil pump. Remove the circlip, the spring retainer, the spring and the plunger. Spray all parts and the plunger bore with carb cleaner. Make sure the plunger will travel freely in the bore. Reassemble with a drop or two of light weight oil. If you're very clean with your reassembly, put in your regular good engine oil with 8 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil and drive. No need for a 30 minute flush, unless your really want to, or suspect that there may be something that you missed. Keep an eye on the oil level. Top off the oil level when the MMO dissipates. MMO will do it's best work during normal driving. http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=675984&t=4867332 Glenn |
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| Scoobs | Jul 31 2012, 11:34 AM Post #3 |
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:D
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Lol
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| cwatkin | Jul 31 2012, 12:35 PM Post #4 |
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Thanks. I will DEFINITELY make sure the vent passage is clean when changing the cam seal. I will spray some carb cleaner in the seal area once I have the seal out and make sure it drains back into the head. If not, I will redo the valve cover gasket. I used the RTV sparingly and had minor squeeze out in only a couple locations. I used the red RTV on the valve cover and oil pan as you suggested and a very light coat of ultra black on all the other gaskets (oil pump, water pump, rear seal housing, etc.). I put a VERY light coating of ultra black RTV on the outside of the front and rear crank seals before pressing into place and put a healthy coating of grease on the shaft ends/inner sealing surface before assembly. I will repeat this when replacing the cam seal once I know if the vent passage was plugged or not by my work. The oil pump plunger appears fine and was nice and clean before I even did any work but it was cleaned for good measure. How is the best way to prime an oil pump? The last thing I want to do is run this engine dry of oil. Is the best way to simply crank the engine with the coil disconnected? Could I also dump oil down the oil filter fitting? I found one post saying that disconnecting the coil is the way to go but no others. You are probably right that the oil flush I plan is overkill but I got the oil and filter with a rebate for almost nothing. This also included a roll of shop towels, oil pan, funnel, hand cleaner, etc. I have quite a few of the extra oil pans in use as food dishes for my goats as they are far cheaper than the same basic thing at the feed store and those don't come with oil, a filter, shop rags, funnel, hand cleaner, etc. This oil happens to be the Valvoline NextGen. I know this is regular oil but I figure there is no point of using high dollar synthetic for a flush. I may drive this car to town and back once it is back together with the MMO and then change if it works best under normal driving conditions. I was also able to find a Sachs clutch friction disc for this car without all the other clutch kit accessories. This is a PHC Valeo. Glenn, thanks again for the advice. I know you have saved me both money and frustration. Thanks, Conor |
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| Deleted User | Jul 31 2012, 03:54 PM Post #5 |
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You're welcome, Conor. It's coming along fine.
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| cwatkin | Jul 31 2012, 04:57 PM Post #6 |
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I went ahead and pulled the old cam seal today even though the replacement isn't here yet just to check the condition of the vent hole. I sprayed some carb cleaner through the hole and it is good and clear. Not RTV got into that passage so I am good on that. My main reason for wanted to do an engine flush quickly is in part to all the cleaners, etc. I have sprayed around the various places in the engine. I wonder how much crap has gotten down into the oil galleries and such. I figure I had better be safe than sorry on the engine and just clean it out well with a flush. Thanks, Conor |
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9:40 AM Jul 11