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How do you prime a 1.0L oil pump?; Recently replaced some engine parts and want to make sure engine will have oil pressure!
Topic Started: Jul 31 2012, 01:46 PM (1,902 Views)
cwatkin


I recently had the oil pump off of a 1994 1.0L and wanted to make sure I would have it primed before starting the car. What do I need to do?

This was part of my engine swap and the engine being swapped in had leaking seals and gaskets everywhere possible due to a back PCV valve. The oil pump and oil pan were removed during this work and I figure that the pump will need to be primed before the engine is started. Do I just disconnect the coil wire and crank the engine a while without starting it?


Thanks,

Conor
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

cwatkin
Jul 31 2012, 01:46 PM
Do I just disconnect the coil wire and crank the engine a while without starting it?
That will work just fine. ^o) I took it a step further by pulling the plugs too. :gamerz Spins up, and primes up, really quick. :thumb
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cwatkin


Thanks. Are there any signs I should look for? Should I remove the oil fill cap and see if fresh oil is present under the valve covers to make sure it really did prime?

Thanks again,

Conor
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Deleted User
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I squirt a little bit of oil down the hole that the check valve goes in prior to installing the check valve and the head. It works every time. One time, I forgot. It made no difference. I crank the engine over 3 times, 10 seconds at a time with the spark plugs out, the coil wire disconnected, and the fuel injector fuse (under the hood, driver's side) removed.

If everything is right, it will start right up.
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fainya
Fainya
[ *  *  *  * ]
When I replace oil pumps I lube the oil pump with vasoline.
The vasoline will brake down with the motor oil.
The vasoilne ensures the oil pump has lubrication on the initial
cranking of the engine.
Also check the oil pickup tube for cracks. If the oil pickup tube is cracked or the o ring does not seal properly, once the engine is hot the pickup tube will suck air into the oil.
This is not good for the engine bearings.
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

fainya
Aug 1 2012, 07:03 AM
When I replace oil pumps I lube the oil pump with vasoline.
The vasoline will brake down with the motor oil.
The vasoilne ensures the oil pump has lubrication on the initial
cranking of the engine.
Also check the oil pickup tube for cracks. If the oil pickup tube is cracked or the o ring does not seal properly, once the engine is hot the pickup tube will suck air into the oil.
This is not good for the engine bearings.
I use STP motor oil treatment.
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cwatkin


I didn't fill the pump with any oil or vasoline before re-assembly. Would it be wise to pull these little plugs on each side of the pump and fill those galleries with as much oil as possible?

I would rather not take the thing back apart as I coated the gasket with with ultra black RTV and know it would likely not be reuseable. It sounds like many people do nothing but I was wondering if filling those galleries might be a good idea. I also put some black RTV on the threads but could clean it off and reinstall without trouble. Would I need to pull all 3 of those plugs or would one be good enough?

Thanks,

Conor
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Deleted User
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Don't worry about the oil pump prime. There is enough oil left in the pump to do the job. It doesn't take much. I reassemble oil pumps with just enough light weight oil to get everything wet. They pump oil immediately.
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metromizer


cwatkin
Jul 31 2012, 01:46 PM
Do I just disconnect the coil wire and crank the engine a while without starting it?
you might remove the spark plugs and connect a battery charger as well. You want to spin the engine over at as high an rpm as you can. Removed plugs helps with that, and also puts less pressure on the rod bearings while you are cranking for oil pressure. Then crank it until the oil pressure light goes out.

Wetting the new pump out with engine oil is best, but even with the oil pump reassembled dry, they are usually machined with close enough tolerance, the seal good enough, that when spun over with more than typical rpm (plugs out, fully charged battery) the pumps create enough vacuum to suck oil out of the pan and build pressure.

Some of my racing buddies have built elaborate 'air-over-oil pre-luber' systems, that pressurize the system before initial start up of a brand new engine. That's overkill for any street engine. Most racers like myself just use the method I describe above, along with removing the pushrods (on a pushrod engine) so the cam lube doesn't get wiped off the lobes and lifters during oil pressure cranking.

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cwatkin


Ok, thanks for the additional advice. Since I am not totally sure about the condition of either battery that came with my two cars (both were dead but appear to hold charge now), I will have the plugs out and the battery hooked to another running vehicle with jumper cables. This is probably way overkill but I would rather do it right.

The engine will be ready today but I will need to finish welding the frame horns this weekend and then drop the engine back into position.

The following have been done.
-New water pump and gasket
-New rear main crank seal and seal housing gasket
-New front cam and crank seal
-New oil pump gasket
-Re-sealed oil pan with RTV
-Re-sealed valve cover gasket with RTV
-New PCV valve
-Cleaned EGR valve and passages
-New timing belt/tensioner (not complete but will be finished with engine in car for ease of engine installation) - Old belt and tensioner will be kept as spare as this is an easy roadside repair too.
-New water pump/alternator belt (will be done after engine install) with old kept as spare
-The alternator on one engine looks to have just been replaced. It is brand new has barely any dirt/grime on it. The other will be kept as a spare.

The radiator hoses look good on both engines and the extra from the other engine will be kept around as spares. The better of the two water pumps will be kept for spares as this appears to be a special order item at all the local parts stores.

Both engines ran so I am not going to replace the plugs/wires until I have the engine installed and know for sure if this is needed. I am going to inspect the cap/rotor, wires (open hood with engine running at night and spray with water/look for lightning storm), and look at overall condition of plugs.

Anything else that should be done at this time if I want this to be a good and reliable daily driver?

Thanks,

Conor
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Deleted User
Deleted User

Buy a new battery from Advance Auto. Use the CCABIN coupon for a $40 off $100 purchase.
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